Headers were the least of our worries. The biggest headache was related to fitting everything around the DSE frame, which unlike other aftermarket frames has hydroformed rails which hug the contour of the floor really closely. This little issue required us to punch a hole and do a little trimming on the sides of the bushing mount. The whole process would have been a bit easier on a car with a Morrison, Speedtech or 21st Century frame

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I dropped the floater off at Speedway this morning after getting stuck in bumper to bumper traffic at 5 a.m. - I hate L.A. - so hopefully I can pick it up Friday. It'll get powder coated next Monday, and likely be under the car Thursday. If everything goes well we'll be driving it next Friday/Saturday, maybe...

Matt

Great update Matt. I figured the hydro formed sub was the issue. Questions for you -

Did you have to fab the floor due to ergonmics (fwd or back) or just to make room to mount the pedals?

Those masters are beautiful! Whose are they?

How/where do you adjust the balance bar in this set up?

I take it these pedals don't work w DBW? If not and I needed to use a GM pedal/double Tiltion, do you think the heel toe action would be as natural?

Sorry for the barrage, but I love the thinking that went into this. I actually brought up floor mounted pedals question to Chris in a thread when he rolled out his beautful billett pedal arms. Thanks to you and Dick for blazing the trail here...:hail:

Very nice Matt. Nice upgrades. Might as well while you have her torn apart, right?:unibrow:
I can't wait to see the hood all painted on the car. I bet it's going to look bad ass.:bow: :cheers:

Ok, let me do my best to answer these questions without forgetting anything,

the floor had to be modified for a couple reasons:
1. the pedal box with the M/Cs installed is pretty deep, and sits at least 4" closer to the driver than the stock hanging pedals. For any normal person to operate the pedals comfortably they'd have to be in the back seat.
2. angle of the pedals: without modification, the pedals would stick straight up and down, perfectly perpendicular to the floor at 90 degrees. Angling the pedals back was predominantly based on ergonomics, but also done to give space because the top of the pedals that the driver's foot rests on is now farther back.

Are you talking about the actual master cylinders, or the reservoirs? the masters are from Tilton, and the reservoirs are three of the Ring Brothers clutch reservoirs.

The balance bar is adjusted at the base of the brake pedal. You just loosen the nut and move it left or right depending on whether you want more front or rear bias.

As far as I know the Tilton three pedal assembly is limited to a mechanical throttle cable. If you used the two pedal assembly and the GM drive by wire gas pedal I imagine after a little planning everything could be made to fit "naturally." Personally, I would just use Tilton's hanging brake/clutch setup if I was running a drive by wire pedal - or just ditch drive by wire altogether.

Hope that answers some of your questions.

Matt

^ Great response Matt. Thx...!

The engine and trans was put in place tonight.. :)

That is all....

I know, Dick sent me some photographic proof. I think all of your engine swappage over the last year has really benefited me. This probably only took them 15 minutes today.

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Matt

Looks awesome! Love the look! That's a mass of killer parts working together right there! :thumbsup:

How many days left? Dick looks tired....but he's still standing!:D

Matt the car is really looking good. Really like the color.
Let the thrash continue!

GORGEOUS!!! It won't be long now my friend! :thumbsup: