Thanks Ron, it definitely makes it interesting for me to compete with such old technology. I have to be honest, everybody has underdogged me for so long for running a big block chevy. In many ways, I really think it's an advantage in these multi events. The extra nose weight over the aluminum block LSX stuff in autocross is really the only negative I see(75-100lbs). The amount of torque and engine braking cancels that out in IMO. My engine make a lot of average power. I'm making 604 ftlbs at only 3700 rpm. I'm still making 631 hp at 6800 rpm(Redline) and over 500 ftlbs at 6700 rpm.

So, my average power from 3500-6800 is:

581.1 hp 598.13 TQ

Peak:

666.7 HP/6200 RPM 641.1 TQ/4700

Jason Pettis built me one hell of an all around engine that is very streetable. We discussed in great detail what I intended to do with the car and he nailed it. End of story.:thumbsup:

Impressive numbers. :thumbsup:

Stay the course, '69 Camaro's are muscle cars and Yenko's are a historic American icon. HP to weight ratio is HP to weight ratio. Hi-tech HP is cool but not required as without traction control and proper suspension setup there are thresholds.

I'd much rather out prepare and drive someone than win with computer assistance and money.

Payback is a great modern day representative of the true Camaro heritage IMO.

Solely for conservation and environmental reasons fuel injection for the ZL1 could be an acceptable option. :unibrow: But good suspension and setup will deliver faster times with Iceman at the wheel. :yes:

Damn!!!! Dave was sleeping! Better start practicing for next years beer shotgun shootout!!!! I am ready!:cheers:

That is one race I'm not winning but I'll gladly take 2nd.:D

Dond worry hp is hp and torque is torque.
you cant change the laws of fisics. we are secredly working on a car called ""Road Force One"" it wil be a GT road racer but one that is stil capable to drive on the streets. its engine is a All pontiac Ia2 aluminium Pontiac engine. witch wil take all the origenal injun,s engine parts from the 60,s and 70,s.
the engine wil have 730 hp 700 lbs feet of torque 7300 rpm red line and a one of a kind vari lift system(1,18 roker ratio below 3500 rpm/1,67 above) witch wil give the engine a torque curve of 5000 rpm!!!. the rocker system wil give the engine a 20* bigger cam without loosing drivenilety, so its old technolegy put in a new jacket and with newt tech parts divelopt for the old engine disighn. cant think of a modern ls7 engine witch wil be able to compeat with that.

Not wanting to spend $4,000 swapping over to a t56 magnum, I thought I'd take one last swing at this tko 600. I did a bunch of research and found one blaring similarity with happy racers. Clutch Air Gap. I've seen claims up to .080 needed for a smooth shifting 600. So I went to work and was able to get approx. .050. That puts the engagement at the very top of the pedal travel and barely any air gap between the throwout and pressure plate. It's not getting any better with this clutch. I ended up using an allen wrench as getting into the starter hole with some feeler gauges wasn't my idea of a good time. You can see the allen wrench in the 5 o clock position.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0243.jpg

Verdict: It still shifts like a John Deere tractor. I'm running the Mopar event at the speedway(Autocross/Drag Race) in April and then it's time to go 56 Mag. Hopefully I'll be able to hit 3rd and lay down a decent 1/4 mile time.

I complained at Bondurant for 3 days about the crappy 2/3 shifts in the Grand Sport Corvettes with high rpms...

How thick is the bump stop on your clutch pedal? I spent too much time on my back gazing under the dash today. :D

It's a factory bump stop. I wouldn't want the clutch pedal any higher but I know where you are going....:unibrow:

:rofl: :rofl: J/K Bro! Time to do some cuttin' :yes:

So a T56 shifts like a tractor also?

You got it comin....:D

:lol: That's hilarious Ron.

Todd you gave it a good run... I believe DSE Kyle had/has a TKO in his 70... is he still running it? I believe he was running a cooler on it as well at one time... or maybe he switched it out for a Magnum?

FWIW:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG1929-L.jpg

This put my clutch and brake even and added some free-play. The brake pedal stop in the car is similar thickness to the cut clutch stop. :question:

I decided to adapt a set of dual adjustable Afco shocks to the rear of my car. I have reached the end of the rope with my single adjustable Varishocks. I'll never forget Mike Maier's face when I told him that was what I"m running out back. :lol: Anyway, to meet my future goals, I need more adjustability. Not only to slow down my weight transfer but to get down the 1/4 on the level I desire. I like the idea of having the same manufacturer front and back. Since my DSE sub has dual adjustable AFCO's this was my first choice. I got lucky and AFCO was able to build me a shock within .1(Stroke was also within .150) of the length of my old shocks and I'm able to mount them to reduce the unsprung weight while keeping the adjustment knobs accessible. That meant I didn't have to cut new relocation brackets. I did have them add a bump stop. I'm sure it will take me a few events to find the sweet spot but it should be worth it in the long run.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0003.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0017.jpg

Does Kelli know where her honeymoon cash is going?

Just asking'


:D

She's out galavanting in it right now.(The one on the right):D
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0004.jpg

I knew I liked her!

:thumbsup:

Dang! Does the ad agency for Viagra rent out the cars in your garage for their commercials?

I'll be out in Vegas to beat up on some magical Mopars, or whatever they call their event. You'll be there right? We need to show them what two lightweights can do against those Challengers.

Matt

Just out of curiosity, when you make a pass on the 1/4.... what settings do you run your front shocks at and is your front sway bar connected ??

Nah, they passed me up for a guy with a Shelby Mustang. :lol:

I'm there man. Planning to autocross one day and drag race the other. What day do you plan to run?

I've only run down the 1/4 twice but I tried to mimic a 90/10 shock. Close to full compression and very little rebound. I did have the sway bar connected both times but I do plan to disconnect it for next weekend. What type of mile per hour do I want in the burn out box?

Sounds good on the front end little rebound as possible is good and disconnecting the front SB will help..

You usually don't want to do a big burnout on street tires or one at all. Street tires get greasy if overheated. The most you would want to do is clean them off real quick with a little tire spin. if you do do a burnout, do it just until you see a lil smoke then pull out of the wet still spining, Maybe even try it on the dry surface (you've got to find out what the car likes)


As far as the MPH or RPM during a burn out ..you'll have to find that "sweet spot" with your car.. every car/combo is different I myself liked a low rpm burn out at the hit to keep the slicks flat against the surface of the track.


Are you running the tires that are on your car now or a drag radial? Same front tires as on the car now?

If running street tires and don't already know..

Go around the water box!!!!!

Your front street tires may carry some water to the beams and this keeps the water from puddling up under your front 'street tires" when you stop. And you dont want to be dead in the box cuz your rear tires will splash water up into your wells and it can drip back down onto them, plus the treads will hold water. So if you want to wet the rears BACK UP TO THE WET AREA in front of the dip. Have a friend guide you if needed..


Air up your front tires some. This will help a little with car's reaction time and less rolling resistance

Also... slowing the rear compression may slow the hit of the tire and help it hook. Again you got to find that "sweet spot" for your car on that days track conditions.



I really suck at explaining stuff. I hope this will help ;)

PS if you are running Drag radials or slicks and front runners..I'll give you another long winded explanation LOL

I'm running R888's which is a road racing 100 treadwear. It definitely likes heat so I think a burnout is needed. I have a 295mm front tire so airing it up is a good idea as it's a lot of resistance. Eventually, I would like to get another set of wheels or a spare set of rears for a drag radial.

Todd,

What is the anitsquat set at in the back?

Here is my mustang with a tri-4link set at around 125%. Less than 300hp but launching at 6200rpm with 10.5" slicks. I also have AFCO double adjustable shocks on all four corners, but lighter springs in front and rear than a typical pro-touring car. Typically a second gear burnout hitting the rev limiter at 6200.

http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

I have those lame single Varishocks in rear too..... I imagine I will join you at some point..... it never stops....

whats that pig doing in the front garage!:lol:
living the dream buddy!:thumbsup:

I have no idea but I don't plan to change it as I don't have the adjustability with my 4 link. I'd have to change pinion angle and that's counter productive for the street, ride height, high speed drivability. I'm just trying to get down the .25 the best I can in my protouring set up. Drag radials could be down the road.

No **** sherlock.

It was my daily driver for a few days. Plus, I just wanted that prissy little vette to know who the real boss is around here.:lol: Beauty and the BEAST.:rolleyes:

You're right, I have it made. I bitch and moan once and a while but I don't even feel sorry for myself.

You just dropped to Tier 4 friend status with Renner.

Glad to hear I'm not only a better race car driver but I'm a better friend of yours than you are of mine. :D :lol:

fvckface :lol:

Just take that POS to Barrett, take half of that money and a build a real race car... then you don't have any excuses left. :D

Don't think that's not running through my mind. :_paranoid

Modification 4,063 and 4,064.

As the car and myself have gradually gotten faster along with the onset of old age, :unibrow: safety comes into play. One thing I've always wished I had was a power cut off switch. A majority of fires are caused my an electrical short. It will also be nice while servicing the car. Flaming river makes this big daddy that is NHRA approved and will take 2500 amps for 5 second intervals and 200 continous. Maybe a little over kill but I like a margin of safey. http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...s0004/FR1003-2 I set out to poke a hole in the rear facia right below the bumper but couldn't bring myself to it. I'll probably do it down the road. Anyway, I just put a make shift T handle on it for now but it's in the right location for the rod down the road. As usual, this turned into quite a little project. I had to rework all the cables and wires minus the negative side. I'm happy with the look and function. I'm going to order a different sticker with the push off instructions. I also plan to cover the terminals. The only bitch I have with it is a roll pin holds the lever on and you must install the switch in the bracket before you put the arm on and beat in the roll pin. The arm won't fit through the hole in the bracket. The hole is also at and angle so a machine screw won't work.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0045.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0048.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0050.jpg

The second thing I added is a ROLL OVER SWITCH. I wired it into the ground side of my fuel pump relay. The car must be upside down for this switch to cut the ground to the relay. While I hope to never test this one out, I wouldn't want to be upside down with 140 per hour flowing. It's the red capped switch next to the fuel pump relay. I wired it so that if it malfunctions, I can simply uplug the connections and bypass it. The switch is made by painless.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0038.jpg

Neither mod was very expensive, I probably have $250 in the whole deal. The cut off switch was pretty time consuming but that was due to packaging and working around the previous set up. I wouldn't build another car without either.

When we're all getting caught up in our next 10 hp mod, good call on a pause for safety. Lots of people read this thread obviously so hopefully others consider it. Or just get a mechanical fuel pump. :D

I was just talking w Mike @ Musclerodz about this yesterday. Like you my big hold up was routing the cut-off switch through the rear of the car.

Glad you're thinking safety Todd...:cheers: Maybe in 2017 I'll get to it :lol:

EDIT: Another thought I had is maybe a cut-off lanyard like boat racers use? If they get thrown from the boat it kills all major systems so you don't get mowed down.

Nice work.:thumbsup: I just installed one too. Now i got to rewire the bat wire for the stereo back to the battery so it doesn't erase the memory everytime i hit the main kill switch

They also make a remote cable and handle that goes into the car so you can kill it yourself and from the outside. Summit # LOK-1330023

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-1330023/

Todd... does that switch work with an alternator?

I like my pump 12 inches from the pickup and flooded, thanks anyway. :unibrow:

I'd install a cutoff switch when you wire the car. If I was to start over, it would likely have a cutoff switch in the dash similar to Nascar. That still doesn't stop a short from the positive cable since that's a long run from the trunk. My postive cable is only 6-8 inches from the battery to the switch. That's a good thing.

This switch does not get wired into the ignition system. That would be another benefit of the dash mounted switch. I listen to my Ipod or exhaust so radio stations weren't that important. :unibrow: I may play around a little in PSCA down the road and want to be legal.

What I am asking is.. If you flip the main switch in the trunk to off...does it kill the eng? NHRA track techs "sometimes" check that. And if it doesn't, they won't let you run until it is fixed.

IMOHO if I'm in a wreck I want everything to be shut OFF with one switch eng, fuel pump etc. Just trying to help. My iPod is in my truck.. old owner cheaped out on the stereo in the Cam.

When I get to the wiring part of my car I am thinking about using this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30204/

Can wire the toggle switch at the dash, but it disconnects the positive cable at the battery. The only thing is, you would have to wire in another toggle switch so some one could get to it on the outside, per NHRA rules.

Jon

Todd, Very nice update.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The answer is NO. The car will continue to run with the switch in the off position. My main focus was a short but I didn't think about them verifying it would kill the engine. I'm not tearing the entire car apart so it will have to do. :D I knew it was likely that it wouldn't kill the engine.

See my lesson in paragraph one. :lol:

Thank you sir.:cheers: