I've only autocrossed the car but never noticed a drop in pressure in the sweepers during spirited driving. Not sure I've looked either. I'm running a stock big block pump with a max pressure of 40-42 hot so it doesn't pump excess oil up top. Not saying I won't have a problem. What pan are you running?

Can't remember the PN but it's a typical a-body moroso pan. None of the really good road race pans fit an A-body without hacking up the front crossmember. I may end up doing some custom mods next winter.

I didn't think I had any issues either until I made a point of watching the gauge durign a 270º on ramp run. It doesn't drop to zero or anything but it bounces around pretty good. I'm runnign full sweep electric gages so they react pretty quick.

Thanks for the tips on the cooling and oil systems. I've been told to run a stock pump (oil) and have also been told I should run high vol/pressure pump. I have to think that a stock pump with an accumilator set up is going to be the best route. I will be on the track at least a couple of times (road course here) just to have some fun. I still need to pick out an oil pan. It will have to fit the factory sub frame and still have extra capacity. Any thoughts?

I do have a brand new billet HEI with an adjustable vac advance. Just need the 6 AL MSD box.

As for cooling, I've been looking at aluminum radators and different fan set ups. I'll have to see just how big of a rad I can fit in there, I will be in traffic at times and am not going to take a chance on frying this motor.
I'll be using an oil cooler too.

Todd, as for the intentions for the car? It will be a driver. I have A LOT of nice twisty roads here that I run my bike on and will be a blast in the car. I don't see myself doing any "formal" drag racing or alot of autocross either. Just a very solid street driven car. But it will be set up for great handling and braking. I intend to abuse the hell out of the tires, clutch, brakes and throttle!:D I am not going to build it just so I can look at it on sunny days. I have a real issue with owning something that I can't use. And a bigger issue with crap that does not work as designed. Cheap tools, parts, guns, whatever. No room in my life for shi**y equipment. Cars are made to be driven. The only way mine will see a trailer is if it's broken or I crash it.

Glad to hear the TKO is holding up with that kind of torque.

Thanks guys!
Eric:cheers:

PS I am going Sunday to get another block. I'll keep you posted.

I'm just saying look at the finish line because it's cheaper to do it right now than later. If you intend to beat it, build it that way. You will get a million opinions on the oil pump. Big blocks are known for pumping the pans dry so I'd have to lean away from the high volume pump. The big block pump is already a work horse and naturally high volume. Mine runs 45-50 psi cold 20-25 idle hot, usually 35-40 crusing and that's when the relief valve opens at about 40. It was built that way on purspose. Oil pressure is one of those deals where everybody thinks more is better. Not neccesarily. A high pressure spring in a stock pump is an option that would get you to 50-60 psi hot at high rpm. I'm going to add an accumulator before I road course the car just for insurance if nothing else. It's well documented that any engine on a road course will need an oil cooler. You need to run a t stat on it. My motor has trouble building heat in the winter here. I'm going to switch to a 195 t stat next winter and switch back to a 180 in the summer. It will actually run 150-165 in the back of the block in the winter even with the stat opening at 180. And it's Vegas!

Good point on the stat. I'm installing a canton oil t-stat that only opens to the cooler when the oil hits 215º. It's a pricey piece but it's one of the few that have a high enough opening temp to ensure good oil temp. Most open too cold at 180º

My coolant stat and fan setup keeps me between 190 and 205º engine temp which is right about where I want it to run. Most people seem to want to run their engines and oil way too cool.

I agree.....why start cooling oil at 180. Let me see if I can find the stat I'm looking at.

Todd,
I sure do want to do it right the first time. So I am going to run a stock pump. And an accumulator as well. Are you saying I should or should not run a high pressure spring?
As for the oil cooler, I am going to run one of those too but have never seen a stat set up for one. Is there a spot in some coolers for one or is it in line?

We get a wide rang of temps here in the summer. It could be 50 one day and 95 the next. The winters can get pretty cold but not so bad that I'd need to swap coolant stats. My truck runs 180-195 all year. If I had to guess at an average daily temp JUST A GUESS, maybe 55-60 AVERAGE all year. Highs in the upper 90s and lows in the teens.

I am really trying to look at the finish line hard here. I will beat the crap out of the car at times. I am trying to make sure I put the right combination of parts together to have a very durable ride. I am sure things will fail/break and as that happens I will have to find a way to fix/upgrade whatever it is.

As always, I am wide open to suggestions. Thanks guys!
Eric

PS
Gary, I just noticed you were following the thread on chevelles.com. I posted the parts list there too. I'm glad I made a connection with Mike Lewis over there. There are some really nice cars on that site. Yours is VERY COOL! And for anyone who has not visited that site, there are a bunch of really nice people over there. I'd encourage anyone to go take a look and join up.

I'd rely on your machinist since he will be setting your bearing clearances. I'm really not sure what to tell you on the spring. I don't think it will hurt the longevity, but it will put extra load on your distributor gear and pump the pan dry faster in a high rpm run. It's really your call.

Thanks Todd. I'll do some research on it and figure it out. (the oil pump spring)
I looked up some oil t stats and that will be a piece of cake to work in at this point.
There is a decent selection of oil coolers at Summit. Some with fans and some without.

Ok, I finally got the whole block issue dealt with. I have a clean, stock bore 2 bolt 454 block. It has been tanked and magged. It's good to go. (and a great price too).
So now it's on to the build. I'll be ordering parts in a couple weeks and getting started on the machine work as soon as I have the rotating assembly.
Thanks for all the help to this point guys. I am sure there will be more questions as I am going to assemble it myself.
Eric:thumbsup: