I agree with Tom. Welding and painting the intake would look great. But I have to say the entire car is just soooo cool! I really like how it turned out and the instal you did looks like it was born there. Very nice!:thumbsup:

Great Jon!

Does it need to be tuned, or is it good to go?

Great Job!! :thumbsup:

Thanks Everyone
 

Mark - I guess it runs so well some folks might argue to drive it and have fun. With that beig said, it is throwing a code for crank-shaft sensor, and for some reason the Auto Zone reader won't clear it. Mike over at Norris Motor Sports indicated I might have created that problem initially attempting to start the engine. Secondly, I'd like to verify Air/Fuel ratio, adjust if need be and get a dyno run recorded.

I'm taking it the first weekend in May.

Your computer looks like the 24 tooth reluctor type like an LS1 would use. LS3's are 48 tooth. I'm no expert on this by far but do the LS3's use the wide narrow harness plugs like yours?
David

The car looks great. Nice work.

Great intake piping. I was trying to figure mine out but I might just do what you did. Did you just order all the parts from a local parts store?

-Dan

Thanks guys
 

David - Good eye, that is a 24x tooth reluctor, Regal gives you the choice of either, and the number of 24x ECM's out there to support kept the cost down. The wiring harness they provided came prepared as you see it, total turnkey.

Dan - for the intake I ordered directly through Spectre in California. they've got a great web site.

This is an issue on first start up with a new system. It has to learn the crankshaft position sensor. You need a guy with HP tuners/EFI Live...or a GM Tech II computer to clear that. There is a quick procedure for allowing the PCM to read/learn the crank position - then the light will go off.

You should be able to get your local chevy dealer to do it for you if you find a service writer that is cool and will hook you up with his technician.

The car looks great, love convertibles! I underwent the swap post-restoration like you...

I've got my clutch pedal set-up just like you, with a tab welded on just like yours...what did you use to tie the clutch pedal to the master cylinder rod? I have a bolt in mine, and don't like it. It seems the threads on the bolt would cut into the bushing/washer on the master cylinder, and tear things up. I would like to get something with a smooth portion on it for the clutch rod, and then a spot for the nut on the end...any ideas?