Payton,

If you have a sealed engine, and are pulling vacuum on all of the ports, then how are you actually getting airflow to remove the vapors from the crankcase? Just trying to understand if you were trying to evac the system, or trying to create a bit of a vacuum pump effect?

I have seriously considered getting a set of their heads, and that is still an option if mine are damaged... But, they admittedly don't have much experience at all with single plane setups since they focus their engine/heads/cam packages on specific vehicles. The vehicles all require the plastic intakes to fit under the hoods...

I have done a lot of research into the single planes, and there just aren't a lot of people who really focus on those setups. BTR has done a lot of dyno work on these setups to compare cam specs, and that's why I sought him out.

The TSP/PRC setups seem to be great for the composite intakes if that is what you are sticking with!

You can keep it connected to the air filter base but I would put tubes pointing vertically that almost touch the lid to give it more distance for the oil to drain back to the valve cover. I still prefer to have a line from each valve cover going to a vented catch can as I feel it keeps the intact track cleaner.

I haven't really looked at the LT engines yet, but from what I've seen they will have the same problem since it's still a skirted block so the bay to bay breathing will not be any better. If you look at early LS blocks and later LS blocks you can see GM tried to improve the bay to bay breathing with larger scallops near the pan rail.

There is plenty of positive pressure in a running motor, no need to let fresh air in to get the "blow by" out.

Sounds like Tim runs his the same way I am speaking.

Street driving, I would empty both cans about 500 miles. Track day, after each session.

Better yet ===== never have to worry about draining.... while the motor is out and the pan is off add a bung/fitting and have the catch can drain directly back to the motor.

:idea:

I'm traveling, so this update will be brief.

Another good news / bad news day. Good news: TSP says they can clean up the cylinder with just a 0.005" bore! I'm really surprised by this, but they are confident they can do it. So I can utilize my existing LS2 block. YAY!

Bad news: when they completed the tear down, the main and rod journals have been scuffed by something in the oil. That's going to mean turning the crank. But to add insult to injury, this crank, which was supposedly new, has already had the mains turned 0.010"! :(

Now the real kicker. TSP doesn't turn cranks, and they don't know anyone in Austin that they trust to turn this one. It's a Callies DragonSlayer which is supposedly hardened after being cut. I think they really don't want to trust having a shop turn a pricier crank like this. So they want to send it back to Callies to do it. The problem there is that it could take 3 weeks or so to get that done. I'm waiting for a call back to confirm that turnaround time...

I'm going to have them replace the oil pump also during this rebuild. I actually don't want the high volume pump in there it currently has, so we are going to use the Melling high pressure pump instead. I won't have a choice in that now after this discovery, so it's good that I was already planning on that...

It will be interesting to see if there is any damage to the cam journals. He didn't mention it, but I am planning to replace the cam anyway...

Bryan, Callie's utilizes two different types of hardening processes on their Dragonslayer, Magnum, and Stealth crankshafts. Perma-tough, and Dura-tough.
The tricky part is figuring out which process was used on your crank, because apparently some Dragonslayer cranks brought into America (the Dragonslayer is made in Asia) receive a Perma-tough process, and some receive a Dura-tough process. The Perma-tough process is most desirable, because it allows the crank to be turned out to roughly .060, and won't need re-hardened.
The Dura-tough process, not so much. .010 is getting into the outer edge of the good stuff, and once you get out to .020, well it will need to be re-hardened.
I find conflicting info concerning what cranks get which process, and I don't know how you'd figure that part out. The re-hardening process will be costly, because it typically means re-truing the entire crank, due to the heat causing it to be distorted.
If your in a hurry, you might want to simply buy a new one, and sell the one you have. Great news on the block, by the way! As Greg Weld says, and I quote, "Ain't hot ridding fun!"

Scott, that is good info. I bought a used Callies Magnum XL (came in the motor I bought) that was sent out to Marine Crankshaft in Socal for some repair and a cryo process I believe? (I cant' recall - it was well over a year ago now) because it was the only place in the state here that my 70 yr old engine builder trusted. What do you know about the crank? I'll have to see if I can dig up any info on it.

Bryan, not sure I would rush some of these decisions for one event... there will be plenty others and I think I'd want the thing done right -- by the right people. Just feels like that is influencing you quite a bit here and ask that you take a hard look at that thought process. Ya know? :cheers: