I like your setup with the proportioning valve mounted by the master. Were those lines prebent or did you bend them yourself? That's the exact same master I am using. Thanks in advance

Car is looking great! Love your attention to detail. One note on that clutch switch, I am using a relay also, I wasn't sure how many amps that small switch could hold up to. Might get a way with running it in series with the started solenoid however I am only using the switch to trigger the relay. And the relay is only powered from the solenoid wire so it is not trigger every time I shift. Only in crank position.

Kbclamper, No problem, I hope it helps you out.

Mc1984ss, I made all the lines except the two short ones from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. They came with the port. Valve kit. If I recall correctly I reversed them and tweaked them a little. I extended the mounting bracket.

Kevin_l , Thanks for the kind words and for the information, that helps a lot.

So quick question. How do you like the Nicop brake lines. I was considering building my lines with Nicop but ended up using steel lines ?

Marty, I really like them. I forget who, but someone on the boards turned me onto them on my last project. I was struggling with stainless steel. I have never used normal steel lines due to the corrosion issues, but the stainless steel lines are much harder to work with. Stainless is hard on flaring tools, doesn’t seal as well, work hardens, and is pretty much one shot and your done. If you decide to use it I would recommend getting a good brand ( SUR&R). There are a lot of cheap brands on Amazon that don’t have consistent wall thickness and some are higher copper content.

Incredible thread Mark. Really enjoying all the details and photos. These are the things we never get to see and appreciate when looking at a finished car. Thank You!

:captain:

Thanks Curtis, I enjoy the detailed threads as well. Lots of inspiration and ideas on here.

My original core support was in horrible shape. It had been hacked up, and patched to many times. I ordered a Goodmark replacement. The opening in the stock support is fairly small at 21” wide. I have seen a lot of folks just cut the opening larger, but it just never looks finished. I also wanted to fill a lot of holes I don’t plan to use and get rid of the dimpled area for the original radiator cap.

I laid out a plan to cut out sections to increase the opening while retaining the original flange. I was able to increase the opening to 24” wide. I’m still working on my welding skills but overall I was pleased.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9vBZLGJ/785921...-EEF201-CC.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/g047Ycbm/DDDEE2...EEF87425-C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/MTTFXkzR/36-DC7...F1008-F037.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XvnhSGhs/63-EA7...-E492-F159.jpg

It was a little intimidating to cut up a brand new core support.

https://i.postimg.cc/cLy2h5cy/4-EC93...5-AB1-B2-E.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/JzNg2cTy/59-C52...-AF9-E08-D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/76sjNHKm/D912-E...9369-DABED.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/j2B9G80f/10-D25...F19-D550-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/KvgCnyBD/1-F5-E...-D10346520.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/y6GwgNgN/044-A1...132-FBAE55.jpg

Nice work...