Dreamin Tas
 

Yes the upper core support
I am going to use an alum C-channel or tube
then alum sides with maybe a couple of angles
It will let me move the top of the radiator forward
slightly as it was tilted back due to the bottom needing
to move forward to clear the steering box

Bob

That's some serious weight savings, Bob.

Man the old bumper was some serious weight!!

Nice savings.

Dreamin Tas
 

Car was 3710 a few years back according to Ride Techs scales
at the Good guys event.... way too heavy
I have taken a lot of weight out of the back of the car
Now it is time to get it off the front... although I am thinking
of getting rid of the Steves SS tank as it weighs a ton

Will also trim back the inner fenders and maybe remove them
altogether... will see how things go

My buddies and I are planning on buying a set of scales
so we can see where weight is going

Bob

All this talk of the weight of things today is making me wonder about how the Falcon will pork up with all the tubing that makes up its frame now. At least it's all going in the middle (which is a good thing, I think) . . .

I suppose cars are different from people in this way . . .

I think that this is the only time weight is good in the middle...:RunninDog:

Dreamin Ta's
 

Did some more cutting and prep work today

Dreamin Ta's
 

So the front turn signals are going to be the new
brake ducts.... Ordered up a couple of new lights
with turn signals built in them.. and they are plastic
so of course lighter than the originals

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Started fab work on new Radiator supports last night

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Cleaned up my light supports
and mounted the new lights
I had to open up the back to get them
To fit. Also lightened up the bumper brackets

Bob

I did the plastic headlight with turn signal swap so I could use the turn signal openings for the brake ducts about 10 years ago. Currently setting the ducts up on each side of the radiator as shown in the pics below. The turn signal openings are way out at the side of the car and air is moving fast horizontally due to bow wave with a splitter. Also using air from right above the splitter may reduce air pressure on the splitter a bit (less downforce). With the duct openings in the core support the tubing is shorter (less weight) and less convoluted also so flow should be smoother. Ideally the openings in the core support would have a more rounded curved entrance but I was using what I already had.

In the lower pic you'll also see a hood to core support seal, bumper bracket seal, and core support to fender seals. So the only air that gets past the core support is through the radiator or the brake ducts.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...psaxq1s3fe.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps1zv3uuom.jpg

Good work, Bob.

Great information, John. How's the car coming along? What are your thoughts on using the grills or the bumper overhand on the later TA's like mine as air inlet for brake ducts or the engine? I'm planning at some point to close off the core support entirely like a 3rd or 4th gen to control air flow.

Dreamin Ta's
 

Thanks for the input John.... I think I am going to
stick with the turn signal ducts for now..
My splitter has an added on piece below so it is much larger
than just the normal Ta one
I was looking at closing the ends off also... maybe use rubber like you

Need to get the bumper brackets done.. big heavy ones are
not going back on... then work on the fitting the nose and glass hood

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Finally got the radiator mounted up

Dreamin Ta's
 

Rear view

Nice work, Bob!

Dreamin Tas
 

Thanks Trey.. not bad for just a carpenter

Now I need to mod the hood as the back of it hits
the top of the firewall.. guess those lowered frame spacers
I put in years back lowered things just enough to cause more work

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

Doing a little more to reduce weight as the alum
hinges seem too costly for me

I've done things like that in the past.
Did you weight the difference ?

Since my car was fully caged I started hole sawing all the internal roof unibody parts. AFter my 3rd or 4th hole cut, I took out the calculator and figured out how much weight I was saving, after all I was cutting out 20+ 2.5" holes.
I'd spent 20 minutes cutting the first 4 holes. I figured if I cut all 20 it would save - 1.1 lbs.

I put the hole saw away.

Bob that's looking really trick. Your doing a great job.

Dreaming Ta's
 

Thanks Wayne

Yes all the drilling takes time and the hinges only
Weigh about 4 lbs each. The metal on them is fairly
thick but really only shaved about a half pound plus for
each. Kinda like the look though


I am looking at taking roughly 100 lbs off the front end
when done. Then head to gutting the doors next
The door bars are suppose to weigh 50lbs each

One Pantera guy said 1000 1" sheetmetal holes is only
about 3 plus lbs. might just be the cheap Russian steel
they are made of:)

Bob

I'm taking the door bars out of my Camaro right now, I'll let you know what they weigh. I've heard more around 50 pounds for both doors combined.

Dreamin Ta's
 

Yes I would like to know
My glass and actuators are out
and it really helped. Guess I can weigh
all that now that I have a scale at the shop

Bob

Got the drivers side door bar out. 22.0 pounds on the dot on my cheap luggage scale.

Dreamin Ta's
 

Thank for info. I still have a bunch
of front end work before I get to the bars

Bob

I like the idea of using the bumper grill openings for brakes and/or engine intake while keeping the bottom feed for radiator. Closing off the core support is a good idea.

I'm surprised no one has come up with a lightweight version of the bumper brackets even if they need to sell them as "off road only". I considered making some but have already gone way too far fabricating and modifying. Should bring my project thread up to date here.

Your core support looks nice!

Dreamin Ta's
 

John
What motor are you running in your car??
Is there a build page.

Bob

Dreamin Ta's
 

John
Bumper brackets are my next thing
Fairly simple with a flat bar below and then
A couple of angles above. Using all aluminum

See you have a 400. Any specifics??? Oiling issues?

Bob

Thanks John. Definitely update your build thread. Your car is awesome!

Dreamin Ta's
 

Just received my new hood latches and front ducts
for the bird

Bob

I'm thinking of going with those as well, Bob. Will you be running just two? Will they be the only thing keeping the hood closed? My concern is they won't be strong enough to hold the hood down at high speeds if only using two. Thoughts?

Dreamin Ta's
 

Trey
I figure if they can hold down Hobaug's
hood I am good. They actually have a pretty
good latching system on them. I will try to get
a picture of the inside the next day or so
Having my Pantera group over for Super Bowl

Bob

I run these on my fiberglass hood and have never had any problems. I've been to at least 120, depending on if you call that high speed. ;)

Dreamin Ta's
 

Thanks Bryan

Bob

The aluminum brackets should save a few lbs. Just keep in mind with all the lightweight fiberglass and aluminum front end stuff you may want to tie the frame horns together with something substantial so you don't end up with the engine where the center console belongs if you stuff it in a tire wall.

Engine in my car is a fairly mild 400 that was a little under 300 RWHP on a dyno. Should have a little more with the new exhaust and some carb work. After I get the car back on track and sorted with the current engine I'll build a bigger power engine. For now it's remaining basically a momentum car till I get the aero tuned.

I had oil issues with the first 350 P engine and used a 7 Qt. Canton RR pan on the 400 P when I installed it, no issues with the Canton pan. I'm going to add an Accusump oil accumulator now because I'm doing a bunch of aero work that will hopefully increase cornering capabilities quite a bit.

I've seen 2nd gen glass hoods blow up in the center at high speeds when only using hood pins or latches out to the sides. It all depends on the aero set up of the particular car. I had a 74 Camaro bracket car that it had happened to when the previous owner was running it (over 120). The gel coat was all spider cracked and hood needed to be replaced. Every car and various brands of hoods are different so YMMV but I'd be cautious and consider also using a center latch of some type if you're planning on high speed. A good wind gust head on while on track might make your car think it's going 30 MPH faster.

Thanks Trey! I'll update mine but I'm gonna update yours first about the wheel cribs/jacking discussed in the beginning of it. I should have done that a loong time ago. ahahaha

Thanks for the info on the latches gentlemen. I intend to keep my steel hood for now. I'm more worried about speeds up to 100mph really. I might eventually do an HPDE event but I can't see that being a regular occurrence. I'll make changes if it does. Main thing is I want to get rid of the front pull cable. It's annoying with the car so low, lol.

John, the cribbing has worked out well for me. I dislike jack stands. Only down side is I can't get my jack under the front cross member. I need to get the wheels up one some blocks first and then I can get the jack under the front.

Dreamin Ta's
 

John
Will be working on a bar to tie the frame rails
together. My friend gave me one that I need to shorten
just a little. Hope to have my buddy weld something up
tomorrow.

Good info on the latches. I do remember now Hobaug worried
about his hood so he cut some vents in it. That might be my solution

So what aero mods are you doing to your car??

Bob

Long list of aero modifications.
1. Extended air dams for different height splitters
2. Splitters, different lengths for tuning, height and pitch adjustable
3. Underbody tray from splitter to diffuser with tunnels, height and pitch adjustable independent of body rake
4. Side splitters extended out from under tray
5. Wicker bills in front of wheel openings
6. Rear diffusers, probably a couple different designs
7. 3 different rear spoilers
8. Foilers behind wheel openings (these may actually be detrimental and not used on track)
9. Seal radiator support so only air allowed past is through radiator and brake ducts
10. Side window panels from cage to body to reduce chute effect on road courses
11. Roof fences?
12. Tire air dams
13. Front splash pan opening block offs
14. Modified fender vents couple different types
15. Rear wing
16. Cowl opening seals