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Update 8/9
Doing some bonding and saving my header panel! Took it done to metal and sandblasted the braces and used 3M bonding to put it all back together ..... came out nice, now to sand the edges and get it in epoxy!
And the little brown truck came by .... another project to get started on here real quick! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/j7trtB.jpg Rusted brace ... GRRRRR! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...539/7Y0atG.jpg Braces off and ready for stripping! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...745/iDYcJn.jpg Bonded, sealed and very strong! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...743/QxHpyr.jpg All back together and better than new! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/209ty8.jpg Next project :confused59: Thanks for looking ..... |
Nice job Chief, talk about taking it to the limit. Better than new. Those frame connecters will keep you busy for a while.
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Been some time
since I had an update. MY school work is taking most of my time lately, but I told myself I needed to get out there and get some stuff done before it gets too cold out.
So I cut out the floor for the sub frame connectors, got the drivers side done and most of the pass side. After I cut up the floor supports and found rust I said that's the last sheet metal that I haven't torn apart .... figured, rust had started everywhere else!! I'll use some Eastwood frame rust inhibitor all through the support and weld her shut. Question for those before me: the connector DSE gives you to weld the frame and connectors together ... what's peoples doing for a removable frame setup?? Any templates? Any recommendations for strength? I can't cut 3/16" and make it look good, suggestions? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/SnEPoW.jpg Drivers side nice and snug, should be easy weld here! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...908/ki7Sj7.jpg Pass side cut out, yeah RUST ! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/sXl82F.jpg What to do about that gap prior to welding???? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...910/FVxXP3.jpg This is the DSE connector .... like to replace it with a bolt thru on the frame. Need to tear the front swing metal off and get the frame outa the way and get some epoxy on the floor before I get to far and then weld the connectors in for good. Thanks for looking .... keep on keepin on! |
Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?
As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68. I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings. I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed. :thumbsup: |
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Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up. |
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I intend to make the subframe bolt into the subframe connector as well, but I am okay with adding a tab of material to one or the other. I guess that's what I thought these supplied pieces were drilled for. |
Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.
They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other. I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website. |
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I like the male/ female idea .... keep thinking folks! |
My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0967.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0968.jpg |
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