I so dig this thread.

Release agent, Partall, brushed on (no pic), let dry...couple hours, 2 coats. Then white gelcoat, also brushed on. Lots of differing thoughts on how long to let it dry before glassing. Most will only let it dry a couple hours so it's still tacky for the best bond, I subscribe here as well. However, if the gelcoat isn't thick enough, the resin will eat it and you end up with alligators that need to be repaired later. I've done multiple funny car bodies with the gelcoat curing overnight and never had a delamination. Controlling thickness with this shortcut of brushing on the gelcoat is near impossible so letting it cure for 8 hours solves that risk, probably doesn't bond as well but since these molds aren't for commercial use, all good.
Why brush instead of spray? Less cleanup, faster but for sure will introduce small air bubbles. If this was a mold for a body panel or something that we wanted perfect gelcoat, spraying is the only way to go. I will spray the gelcoat for the actual parts, like in previous pics.
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Those little bumps are just sticky back cabinet bumpers, they create alignment pins so the mold sections go back perfectly. Yep, brushing gelcoat upside down is a mess and isn't perfectly flat but for a mold that will likely make one part or even 20 parts, absolutely fine.
Attachment 82141
Done in multiple sections so it will come apart later, if it was done in one or even 2 sections, given the angles of the part, the mold could get trapped and it wouldn't release. This is the first 2 sections.
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The dash is looking fantastic. I can’t wait to see it complete and possibly steal some of your ideas.


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It is looking Amazing! The amount of time and effort going into just the dash and center console is mind blowing! It will be a rolling work of art when you’re done!

If you get bored working on your car you're more then welcome to come help me with my interior.

Appreciate any advice here.
The original plan was to drive the dry-sump pump from a pulley behind the crankshaft pulley. However, a 4 stage pump will not fit here with a DSE subframe...without significant modification to the crossmember, engine mounts and the exhaust. Significant is an understatement.

Aviaid has suggested this drive pulley which would mount on the front of the crankshaft pulley which would pull the pump forward. It doesn't completely solve the problem but makes the modification manageable. It will require that I build a custom mount for the pump but it seems doable.

The fear with some I've spoken to is the torque on the crank, bearings and the pulley with this hanging off the front.

Though some think it's no problem.

DSE doesn't know of anyone running an LS7 with an external dry sump pump with their subframe.

Appreciate opinions and any advice.

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While it does stick out a good bit, remember there is no tension on a dry sump belt. The drive mandrel and spacers are aluminum, so don't weigh much, and small in diameter, so not much centrifugal force. Unless your spinning it 10,000 RPM, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd probably be more concerned with belt protection on a street driver. Not sure if you have a belly pan under the nose/engine? if so, I'd still want some protection from top in case the serpentine belt cam off, or broke, so that it wouldn't knock the dry sump belt off. Maybe that's overkill, but I put a shroud on mine. Very least, set up an oil pressure safety that kills the engine, in the ecu.

I'll send you the address lol