Lateral-g Forums

Lateral-g Forums (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/index.php)
-   Project Updates (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16)
-   -   This is MY 67 Camaro (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34830)

Sonar Chief 09-17-2014 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 570232)
My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0967.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0968.jpg

Wayne ... thanks for the pixs! So you drilled new holes where DSE said to puddle weld thru their holes?

You think that the difference in the gauges (14ga bracket) and the stock frame (butt welded) will be strong enough? Any input is good .... cuz I don't want to redo this part. Getting in and out from under my cart is hard enough ... should have made the cart much taller :headspin:

Thanks Wayne!

Roberts68 09-17-2014 05:42 PM

I would mimic that. There will be little to no flex in the box tubing of the frame connector right there once the end cap is welded on.
A guy could put a piece of tube in flush as an anti crush sleeve, if that's warranted.

SlowProgress 09-17-2014 06:38 PM

Subframe connector brackets
 
I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

waynieZ 09-17-2014 08:06 PM

On mine if needed I'll put a plate behind the tab and have it welded to the sub frame and tab.

Evan Iroc-Z 09-18-2014 07:03 AM

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

waynieZ 09-18-2014 08:08 AM

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:36 AM

Thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 570344)
On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

I never heard of putting convertible rockers in a coupe .... makes sense thou. What about welding in that floor piece that are only on coupes? Think I saw it on one of Cris's bulds, that may be feasible ....

Thanks for the inputs ....

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z (Post 570331)
I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

I would have to have an engineer answer that .... any takers?

Thanks for chiming in ...

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowProgress (Post 570276)
I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.

Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

SlowProgress 09-18-2014 07:15 PM

Shear strengths bolts and such
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z (Post 570331)
I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching ......

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief (Post 570375)
Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.
Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

I originally had bolt in connectors that sandwiched under the body mounts and front spring perches. Even those were pretty stiff. I could jack up one side of the car and the other would lift (but not perfectly straight). I think DSE intended these to weld in both the front and back but welding the back and along the floor will really improve the stiffness over my old bolt in connectors, not to mention how they don't hang down so far. I have not jacked the car up on one corner yet because my tabs are only tacked in place.
Answering Evan’s question about bolt strength I really am not a fastener expert but if you look online one 5/16 grade 5 bolt can hold roughly 5,000lbs in single shear. The connectors are mounted in double shear so assume around 10,000 lbs per bolt more-or-less. I know that is rough but the order magnitude tells me those three bolts are good for up around 30,000 lbs load. I purposely drilled the holes tight so they won’t loosen. I didn't want to make it perfect just better than before and allow the subframe to be removable so I can upgrade in the future. That’s about all the thought I put into it.

BTW one of the structural engineers at work reads these posts so if my estimate is all wrong he will probably say something :-)


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:43 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net