Matt, the new parts look great! Does the Anvil bumper use the stock mounts, or does it bolt directly to the body? I should own stock in Anvil!! :thumbsup:

When I talked to Matt, he said that the Anvil team was working on a new front end that would integrate the bumper and lower fender extension all into a single piece. I saw an early version of it last year, when Tyler showed me, and it is pretty cool.

That said, I still think they should make a front bumper for those of us with done cars, that don't want to do anything more than bolt on a few parts, or for those that prefer the original lower valence.

Rich, I shot some pictures of the bumper for you, and will upload everything when I get a little more time. The spoiler more or less drops right in. You might have to get out a heat gun and change the angle on a few of the studs, but no additional drilling will be required as long as you have an original spoiler or regular Anvil one.

Redfire, the bumper bolts directly to the body, I think it is one of the few parts I've dealt with that actually installed in 10 minutes with basic hand tools.

Matt

Thanks Matt , Appreciate you taking the time, looking forward to seeing them.

Rich

Bumper's nice but it looks a little fat (my opinion)....
fat have you seen the nova bumpers hahaha

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...A/DSC_0158.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...A/DSC_0159.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...A/DSC_0160.jpg

Hope these pics capture the angles you were looking for. If not, just let me know and I'll be happy to snap a few more over the weekend. I think part of the reason the bumper looks fat is because the spoiler is about half the height of a regular one. Also, don't mind the battery tender chord coming out of the trunk, hooked up to my I-won't-hold-a-charge Yellow Top Optima battery.

Oh, and before I forget, I've got a new issue to trouble shoot. we charged my AC and hooked everything up this week, and it isn't working. Basically, the compressor is getting juice, and the electric fans are turning on, but the compressor doesn't want to run. Any ideas? I'll be sweating my ass off in Fontana this weekend unless someone can come to the rescue with a tech tip lol.

Matt

Your description isn't very complete. Does the compressor have a binary or trinary switch in line? If so -- it can be over charged or under charged. Hi pressure would turn the compressor off to "save it"... low pressure would not build enough "head pressure"...

To really charge a system like this - you need gauges etc. A vac down - pulling big time vacuum for like an hour... then charged up etc.

So when you say - it doesn't work.... what does that mean? Does the compressor clutch kick on? Does it cycle on and off repeatedly? Does it just not make cold air?

You are giving the compressor 12V + to it's one and only wire (self grounded).

Yes, sorry Greg. My description was beyond vague. We took it down the street to another shop to charge the AC. I believe it has a trinary switch. My understanding is that they hooked it up to their machine, pulled vacuum, etc. Basically they claimed it "should work" (everyone's famous last words) because the machine charged it without incident. When it didn't work, the mechanic over there took one look at the ISIS and said WTF. So, we tested it to see if it was getting its 12 volts and everything appeared to be golden. D!ck was pretty busy all day and only had a few minutes to look at it, and the first thing he noticed was that the compressor wasn't "locking up" and running. Does that mean the compressor clutch isn't kicking on? sorry for my complete lack of knowledge on this subject.

Also, when I turn the knob on for the AC, I can hear the relay click, but it doesn't appear to be blowing cold from the short amount of time that I had the car running when I got it back to the BOS. As far as I know, it has never cycled on and off.

Greg, I'm so happy that you have an addiction to this website and are on here tonight!

Matt

how did they charge the system if the compressor didn't turn on? Too low of pressure the compressor won't engage, just as too high of pressure cycles the compressor off. It's normal for the compressor to not immediately engage when you first start charging the system, as the pressure isn't up yet, but should click on fairly soon when adding the freon.

I guess my question is how they got the correct amount of pressure in the system if the compressor never engaged.

if it showed 12 volts to the compressor then I would assume the wiring and switch was okay, and start wondering about the compressor itself. Did they test for 12 volts at the compressor with the system on and engine running? You should be able to jump a 12 volt wire to the compressor and get the clutch to engage; you'll hear an audible click and see the clutch move. You can do that without the engine running to test the clutch/compressor.

If the clutch engages by jumping it but won't with the car running and a/c on then you either have a pressure problem (too low or too high the switch won't give the compressor the 12 volts it needs to engage the clutch) or the switch/wiring is incorrect, or bad switch.