Mark, do you use a remote solenoid in the trunk? Also what route did you use to run your positive cable to the front?

Do you know what the airflow/cfm rating on that CTS-V fan might be?

Looking at laying down a rad in the nose so a lot of pull would be beneficial. Maybe even make a little downforce...

GM rates their fans in watts, and the fan that Mark is using is 850watts. It wouldn't surprise me if it was over 6000cfm.

Andrew

My maiden voyage to my buddies house Brad. It is alway good to go to somebody’s house that you know has tools. First drive was 75 miles. I had one loose bolt that allowed the splines sway bar arm to fall off.

Fixed it and drove it back to Sled Alley. Off the the chassis dyno this week.

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Rubber mallet to push the bar back in the splines huh? Been there done that lol

Awesome cars and awesome people. That's what this hobby is all about.

This is my “Race Track” screen. One of the biggest reasons I did Dakota Digital is so I could get this set up. Full analog gauges plus a DIC (Drivers Information Center) that shows - Tire pressures, Engine Oil Temp, Diff Temp and Trans Temp. The only think I don’t have is fuel pressure on the dash. It is on the CAN bus and I thought it would display. I can data log it and look at it later which is sometime better. Something else to sort out.

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To pop the deck lid I use a Year One trunk popper. I have tried other ones and they don’t have enough power to do it.

On the main positive battery cable it runs inside the car. The battery is in the trunk and the cable runs down the rear wheel tub then in the wiring trough under the passenger door sill. Then across the toe pan to a pass through.

Mark


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Mark, I didn't explain myself on the solenoid. I meant a remote starter solenoid in the trunk so the pos. cable is only hot during startup. BTW your car looks great, can't wait to see the dyno specs!!

Also why I went with Dakota Digital, great looking stuff and the ability to do way more than standard gauges.