Sorry Rodger --- I was not really responding to your post.... I was trying to respond by ADDING to what you said. Guess I shouldn't have used the "quote tool".

These hydraulic clutches are super trick stuff -- and work so well and so smooth... but ya gotta get 'em set up right on the money.

I really have no idea what's wrong with his set up -- I was more just trying to say... it should work great and if not - keep searching for a fix!
:cheers:

Hay Greg I understand, just cuz you voted for me like 2000 times you feel like we are best friends and you want to be involved. No problem buddy your on the inner circle......If you think this post makes no sense look at the truck vote thread.

Rodger

Thanks Doug. The RTTC event is not going to happen as just too many nagging issues for a limited weekend warrior like me. My thought was just put a windshield, seat and harness and go but I am sorting out all the leaks which include every type of fluid such as oil lines, brake lines, coolant...you name it I have them. This clutch issue is just added bump in the road and once past that there will be other issues that pop up. Many of the members here make it look easy building a car but it is a roller coaster for me :yes: I will say I am so glad the paint and body is not done because things got pretty sloppy with brake fluid flowing all over. My paint on the frame is messed up but it can be touched up and does not show for the most part. I tip my hat to all the guy's with the skills to avoid messing things up. I do know if I go this deep on another car in the future it will be better the second time around because I will have a better idea of what to expect.

Rodger/Greg, thanks for the feedback. I think it must be in the spacing. I just did not have time to measure Today. I still think I am not good at putting the problem into words. I did not have to pump the pedal to get movement. I was speaking about pedal being hard and if I open the bleeder I could pump the pedal then. I believe the bearing never fully engagded the clutch fingers.
With the bearing out I was able to get the movement of the bearing with one step on the pedal and was wondering if the pressure plate overcomes the bearing thus returning the pedal from the floor because it remained hard. It seems logical that the pressure plate should return the pedal linkage? I will report back when I get info.

Thanks,

Tom

Since there is ZERO resistance on the hydraulic bearing with it being "out" of the car - there should be ZERO effort on the clutch pedal.

There is something going on there and my thoughts are it isn't the bearing -- I'd be looking at the pedal etc.

Try disconnecting the bearing -- or have someone hold a pan under your bleeder and then depress the clutch pedal - check for binding etc. Better yet - disconnect the pedal from the M/C and actuate the M/C by hand to see what it feels like. I'm betting your pushrod is too long and you're bottoming out the M/C giving you a "hard" clutch pedal feel. Sounds to me like there's a problem that is not really bearing related but in the pedal / M/C area.

I have installed a similar hydraulic clutch in my Dad's chevelle when we did the TKO install in fact used the same throwout bearing, Ive heard of some people having problems with Wilwood masters, something about the internal spring in the master becoming unseated and causing problems, My setup has a Tilton master but the design is different enough not to have the issues of the wilwood. Not sure which master you have just a thought though.
Hope this might help, Jake

So I pulled the transmission out and measured for the TOB again.
I came up with 3.08" from face of bell to high point of the clutch fingers.
The TOB on the spline compressed measured 2.47" from the bearing face to the mounting face on TKO so that left a delta of .610". I originally had only three concial spacers which are .100". I added another one which gave me a total of .400" or a .210" gap. The Classic Motorsports instructions indicate it must be a min of .125" gap to max of .225". Put the trans back. I now have a clutch feel. I pulled it out under it's own power which was cool, but the thing does not go into any gear easy running or not running. I did some searches and seems Tremec had some issues a few years back with shifter lug tolerances. I don't know if that is the issue or not or not but IIRC I bought mine back in 07. I was thinking clutch engagement is still off but don't know yet. I seem to recall trying to shifting it on the floor out the car a long time back and thinking it was harsh and not defined.
Here is a vid of the drive. I spliced it together to make it shorter


I have no exhaust or seats mounted yet...just a wooden stand for a seat:unibrow:

Hmm. here is the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1xnVjU9yKs

i dont think the tko is the issue. those problems were mainly during high rpm shifting. ive done a bunch of searching in the last few days deciding what i wanted to do about my tko and i didnt read anything about the issues youre having.

good to see it moving!!!!

Great to see it cruising down the road! :thumbsup:

I agree on the TKO itself unlikely being the issue. Like Tim said above. I've spent hours on that subject researching threads, various sites, and phone calls as well.

Tom, I need you help agian with the wheels, what kind of lug nuts did you use, I tried to order some through Summit and all I got was a conversation of stupid, thanks