Lance --

Your response might be helpful - if it wasn't total gobbledegook...

Most of us aren't EFI engineers... So I'm guessing that about 1 in 100 on here would have a clue what you just posted.

How about reposting the info in terms people can understand and use??


:rofl: :rofl:

What, you don't understand? This all boils down to "I can do it, just give me a call". LOL or 220 - 221 whatever it takes! (If you are up on your Mr. Mom movie quotes) LOL

I agree, can you try again for the rest of us? :lol: :thumbsup:

OPD- oil pump drive.
EMS- engine managment system.

He's using a toothed wheel on the OPD to create a signal that that locates TDC #1 , or similar, to let the EMS know exactly where in the cycle the engine is. It's not just one magnet, but multiple teeth so the resolution is better. The ability to use this type of signal varies by EMS. To the best of my knowledge, XFI can't use this type of signal. A few that can are Pantera, Simple Digital Systems, Haltech, Megasquirt and Motec- there's probably more I can't think of.

Ahhhhhhhhh, that helps. Thanks very much. More than one way to skin a cat.

Gobbledegook
 

Yeah -- Okay -- Sure...

I'll refer to my original post advising him to just run a simple MSD or equivalent distributor and run BATCH FIRE rather than sequential... after
all... he was looking for a COST EFFECTIVE way to fix his "dual sync" issue..
Sometimes -- SIMPLE is good.


:rofl: :rofl:

Greg, no one is disagreeing with what you said. In fact, what I said about using a crank signal only and running sequential to prevent fuel pressure spikes has the total cost of nothing vs. batch. It's just a setting in xfi and I'm using a standard Mallory electronic distributor, nothing fancy. I'm glad other systems and options are being brought up, maybe we'll learn something. I hope Pantera posts more , I've read a number of his posts on efi sites.

Injection Instant
 

Costs are important, you could acquire the 48-2 target/Hall separately, then fit those items into your distributor.

The XFI could be "upgraded" to accept the Gear Down target.

We may be the largest manufacturer of ITB kits for V-8 engines.

These items effect the "tune-up" to a great extent with "stack" injection.
1. The Injection Instant (start of injection) needs to coincide with the point of maximum air flow into the port at low injector duty cycle. (390-450 degrees ATDC)
The '882 EMS then will advance that point similar to ignition timing, then for more fuel (PW increase) we delay the closing of the injector.
When this is achieved with your EMS calibration, low speed response will be GREATLY improved.
2. The fuel regulator BORO (air) pressure reference should be connect to the manifold, if NOT, then the BORO correction needs to be inverted NPC vs PPC.
3. The spark energy needs to be greater with longer duration, NO Multiple Spark Discharge (a lot of little sparks with gaps in between)
No one can argue that eight coils will provide more energy into the cylinder than one coil for all eight cylinders.

Lance

I got a chance to pull the distributor out of the engine, to break it down. Thought I would share my findings and some mods I did to make it more reliable.

First thing I did was press out the drift pin that retains the distributor drive gear and pul the shaft out.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture074.jpg
I found the crimp at the top of the distributor shaft that holds the rotor mounting plate was able to spin back and forth about 5 degrees, not good!
So A few tig tacks did the job
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture084.jpg
After removing the magnet holder and its indexing key, I relized this plastic key can easily strip out of the key way in the shaft. Since mine was a decent fit I simply cleaned it and added som armstrong A-12 epoxy to insure its not going anywhere
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...cture073-1.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture075.jpg
I cleaned up all the rust and re painted. The loose fitting msd cap was the final step. I machined an alluminum ring to fit over a step on the outside of the housing, drilled a tapped it for 8-32 and dropped some cap screws down to squeeze it up tight. It fit real nice. And the cap is super tight now.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture093.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture099.jpg
Dropped it back in to the engine, unfortunatly its snowing out so I cant test it but I think it should be more reliable now.

Rich

That looks sweet Rich it should all stay tight now. Thats what I like to see get home and right back to work. lol

Nice fix Rich. I just recently bought a small mill and I've been wanting to get a rotary table which may be just what I need since I do not think I can bore a hole large enough for the ring.

Pay particular attention to your third picture. That is the key that sheared off of my distributor and caused all kinds of grief. Our fix was to slide the collar over a short piece of 1/2" dia. aluminum rod. Chuck it into the vise and then drill it. We centered the drill on the joint between the collar and shaft then drilled through the length of the collar. I do not remember the size of the drill bit but it's diameter equaled the diameter of the key slot on the dist shaft. We then installed the collar on the shaft and used a piece of stainless wire of the correct size to locate the collar properly and epoxied it in place.
When I pull my Dist to make the ring for the cap I'll dis-assemble it and take pictures if you want.