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I don't know if you know or not but you also need to change the drag link and pittman arm when you convert to manual steering.
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New update. Not very glorious stuff, but interesting none-the-less.
When I was a student in good weather California, my windows started fogging when I tried to de-fog them. The air smelled sweet and dirty. Heater core was leaking! I did what anyone else going to school in a good climate would do. I bypassed the heater core by cutting the heater hose and looping it back into the water pump. Now, years later, is the time to replace this $38 piece of hardware. It sucked. This is what it looked like after I yanked the fan/cover assembly, loosened the box inside the passenger footwell and pried the hell to get the old heater core out. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1611626_n.jpg Lots of beautiful rust. This has got to be a 30+ year old heater core. I think I see Jesus. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1220631_n.jpg http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs292....5_334552_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2577830_n.jpg Here's the heater cover/fan assembly. Dirty, moldy and a bit of rust. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5647161_n.jpg This foam-rubber gasket is VERY hard to find. Don't lose it. Here it is installed on my new heater core. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5061052_n.jpg Cleaned up the heater box/fan assembly. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...9_916128_n.jpg Painted and cleaned the inner heater box. http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs312...._5968382_n.jpg Installing the new heater core is difficult. Especially when I'm trying to take a picture. Can you tell I'm left handed? I seem to be using my left hand in all of my shots. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7332955_n.jpg And installed with the retaining clip in place. Note that the metal the retaining clip is on is a bit bent. I had to fix that later. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...2_102859_n.jpg Not too happy with the seal job, might go back and re-seal the heater box to the firewall. The excess sealant will be scrapped off and cleaned when I prep the engine bay for paint. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...0_625009_n.jpg After removing my old power steering box, I test fit and function tested my new manual steering box. Surprisingly easy to turn the steering wheel now! http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8096630_n.jpg Another angle. All bolts still loose and no nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1814194_n.jpg Another piece for the scrap pile! http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7039900_n.jpg Last thing I have to do before I install the LQ4 is to clean and paint the engine compartment. Getting really close now! |
congrats on the progress Nathan.:thumbsup:
Jody |
Nice progress keep at it.
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Great action pictures... The tear down is always fun, you never know what you will find.:unibrow:
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Here's one heck of an update. Not exactly done with this project yet, but the mock-up picture was too good not to share.
Problem: No alternator on my LSx motor. Have: Alternator from my BBC and the bracket that went with it. Solution: Adapt my junk to run with the truck pulley, waterpump and tensioner. Here's a reference picture of the head http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3321028_n.jpg Basic location and spacing I had in mind. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8176956_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1733866_n.jpg After making some measurements (including the difference in the depth of my alternator and the waterpump pulley), I found I needed a 1-1/4" plate and I would have to pick-up a hole on the cylinder head with the spacer plate. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7121413_n.jpg Got this big hunk-o-aluminum from Midwest Steel Supply. It's 1-1/4" thick, 6"x8" T6 aluminum and with shipping was surprisingly cheap. I could have ordered a smaller size, but I wanted extra just in case. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...0_208785_n.jpg Sorry if these pictures are excessive, but I like them. I layed out the pattern using my existing bracket, made some reference marks for the holes (do not drill these) and marked the inside area where I want the other cylinder head hole to end up. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3986746_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7151993_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6516929_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3616834_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...9_305513_n.jpg I managed to find a bandsaw somewhere and cut out the plate. You can hacksaw or jigsaw this, but I wouldn't recommend it. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1318687_n.jpg After clamping up the BBC bracket to the spacer plate to use as a drill guide... http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5177692_n.jpg ...I used a 'gunbarrel' drill bit and backdrilled the holes. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6179228_n.jpg After measuring out and drilling the third hole, I mocked the spacer and bracket up to the head. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8245816_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3699619_n.jpg |
Used some random fasteners and a few drill bits and mocked everything up. I had a long steel spacer tube from another project that I cut down to 1-1/4" to match the spacer and used it on the tie-rod common-to the cylinder head.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6175864_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1889637_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2552309_n.jpg Looks like everything lines up perfectly! http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4300862_n.jpg Now I need to counter-bore the backside of the outermost hole so I can install that bolt. It interferes with the cylinder head. Then I will de-chrome everything chrome and probably paint the alternator, bracket and spacer an aluminum color so it all looks uniform. And, I need to find a belt... |
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