just found this project. this is awesome stuff Todd. I've been wanting to do an EV for so long.

Thanks guys! :thumbsup: EVs are a blast. It took me a while to adjust, now I'm hooked...

Somehow, I got unsubscribed from my own thread. I didn't even know anyone had replied to it. I came today to post some updates, and saw kudos! :cheers:

This isn't the real mid plate - just a temporary way to get the motor bolted in the car so I can roll it in my storage unit. When I get settled, I will cut a real mid plate from 0.750 or 1.000" 6061 plate. That thick because of the torque characteristics of the motor. Sorry about the rust. I need to get everything blasted, then buy some Rad Rides stuff.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/274.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/275.jpg


I pushed the body back quite a bit to get the motor out in full view, and gained the fringe benefit of a better profile; with more classic hot rod proportions.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/276.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/277.jpg


I was pretty exhausted by the time I got the motor in and staggered back to my office and computer. I used a bunch of leftover CAD stuff I had modeled for other projects to create a 1913 style grille for it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/278.jpg


Then, cut it in MDF today. This is the plug for mold-less carbon fiber construction. When the carbon has fully cured, I'll removed the MDF plug.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/279.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/280.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/281.jpg

I wasn't thinking when I modeled it and left the edges of my Bat-T logo razor sharp in the model. That machine isn't accurate enough to not destroy that edge. I can rebuild it easily though, so no real harm done...


More to come... I have Goodguys Columbus in my head. I probably wouldn't have much battery, but I would be thrilled just to drive it into the show.

I like it rough. Gives it the logo that patina rustic look.

Whats that motor weigh again?

Thanks. I see what you're saying. Maybe I'll explore keeping/capturing that as a feature. I kind of like the challenge. :evil:

It goes with the patina'd carbon look I have in mind for the rest of the car. Kind of like an old carbon fiber race car that's been sitting in a field breaking down in the elements - I guess over hundreds of years! :lol: Rather than the, oceans-deep, layers of gelcoat normally found over exposed carbon, you'll be able to feel the texture of the cloth, and there will be places where it's apparently broken, or deteriorated (thousands of years?), etc.




350lbs. This one is a GE: 13.5" diameter, 23" long case. The most popular commercially available, 13", DC, EV motor is the Warp 13, at 13.25 x 20.4"; so this is a beast of an electric motor. My motor came from a 10,000lb capacity (lift and carry) forklift.

Can't wait to feel it pull a 1200lb go-kart. :slingshot:

But this will be... :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/289.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/290.jpg

I do like where this is going

Thanks mrgm!

The steel frame mounts: 1" thick plate steel with a little CNC work, and sheet metal steel hemisphere caps TIG'd on. The plates end up being 0.500" minimum thickness, with 1" thick, drilled and tapped, bosses for the four 0.750" mounting bolts. The sheet metal caps, of course, finish the aesthetic; eliminate the need to do a blind, tapped, hole; and save a few precious ounces of weight. After some hand finishing work they should look like cast steel brackets.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/291.jpg


My goal was to emphasize the mechanical connection of the big 13 to the chassis. Those steel domes should help pull people's attention down to the area, then the various gaps and radii will offer lots of light-play to bring out the details.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/292.jpg

Here's the driveshaft tunnel I mentioned. The point is to emphasize function; to show what's happening inside it, and to highlight the fact that the motor is directly driving the rear end - no gears needed. I will probably revisit the section where it switches from tube to tunnel, and give it a rolled, gradual, transition. The front, tube and boot, sections will both be two-piece parts, with hidden lower panels, to allow slipping them over the u-joint and shaft.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/293.jpg

what rear will you be running, and what ratio?