The Alston installation instructions show the factory bumpstop is retained. In that picture, the bumpstop is missing. The shock is fine if the bumpstop is installed, which it always should be.

I am no suspension engineer or expert and I know you support Frank and his business. But everyone has a different idea of what they want for thier car. And when an experienced salesman like Frank tells you the car will sit where you want or need it to sit without any of these problems like most of these guys are experiencing, this is why these people are complaining. If it was known or disclosed from Alston or its dealers that the standard 10" spring would have alot of these cars sitting like 4x4's even if they have the correct amount of travel, I doubt alot of the kits sold would have ever been ordered in the first place.

I think I specifically asked you in a previous thread about the DSE shock cross member allowing for a different shock position hence thier suspension being able to work at a lower ride height and you said I was incorrect. Now your saying it's there to allow axle tube clearance when bottomed out?

Do you have a G link with a Fab 9 or 12 bolt.

My Bad! That was a typo which I corrected. I'm running 8-200 springs. The G-Link was delivered with 12-200 springs.

If you are curious like I was then simply remove the springs and use a jack and stands to raise the rear until you reach the minimum 13.5" eye-to-eye length for the shock. That will tell you roughly where your ride height will be. You may later end up needing shorter springs to get to that value but no need to worry about that too much until you get the weight in the car.

Yes, I just did this last weekend because I was curious :).

John

Can't miss an opportunity to continue beating a dead horse, can you?

It is simple, the purpose of buying an adjustable suspension is to take advantage of ADJUSTING

To say any of them look like 4x4's is just ignorant. Given the different rear floorpans (you did know 67's have less clearance before the top of the axle hits the floor didn't you?) and the production tolerances, G-links can be adjusted to get as low as the factory floorpan and bumpstops will allow.

Like I care if you call me ignorant or beating a dead horse. I am trying to help other Lateral-G forum members learn from my mistake in listening to a good salesman. Not bashing them for trying to help eachother out to solve a problem. You obviously have an agenda to stick up for what's in your car and who sold it to you and installed it for you. So again. Have fun with your 4x4 67 with correct geometry.

So my advice, do your due dilegence in researching a rear suspension design that meets goals of looks, performance and adjustability. And don't always think a salemans words are as good as gold.

OK let's all just calm down a bit.

A rear suspension is a rear suspension is a rear suspension. GBar, G-Link, Quadralink, LateralDynamics 3link... all have the same hinderance if you want your car low... framerails and trunk floorpan.

There's no way about it, if you want your car silly low you will run into differential axletube clearance to the framerails at full bump. GLink is designed to retain the factory bumpstops and not to have the pumpkin collide with the trunk floorpan. Quadralink cuts the trunkpan out between the framerails and raises it, for two reasons: 1) so that a stronger reinforced boxed section can be put in there to support the load from the shocks, and 2) to gain additional pumpkin clearance at the low ride heights that Quadralink is lusted after for. I'm guessing the Quadralink relies on the coilover's bumpstops for full bump/bottomout protection, and if that's true and the factory framerail bumps stops can be removed, then there you go, that's a good extra 2" of low that can be had without worrying about the rear end hitting the framerails.

As for the topic of just using shorter coils on the G-Link, I can't believe it's still going on. IF you're to use a short coil (but to be safe can only be marginally shorter) then you have to up the spring stiffness to better protect against harsh shock bottomout with the reduced bump travel available. Simply reducing the free length of the spring without increasing spring stiffness is a disaster waiting to happen. And when you consider the recommended bump travel range of a 5" shock is 3" (street) down to a minimum of 2" (racing)... is reducing the bump travel of the shock via shorter coil really worth it for ~only~ a maximum of maybe 3/4" drop (depending what eye-to-eye you're starting with) overall?? I don't think so.

Does the DSE Quadralink modify the driveshaft tunnel? Not that I'm aware of....

Joe is exactly right, you can put shorter springs on the car but you lose precious bump travel. All you need to do is lower your bottom shock mount to retain your travel. Mock it up as has been said at the ride height you want and then modify your lower shock mounting point. Just make sure you take into account the pumpkin/yoke clearance. The more POSITIVE pinion angle you run, the less freedom you have.

I've got mine setup as low as it will go while having 2.25" of bump and having a realistic margin of tunnel clearance.(Old G Bar) But it's the same concept. I believe it's around 24.25" to the crease on the quarter at the centerline of the axle.( I can check my notes) I set mine up at 24.5" with 50/50 bump/rebound and have since lowered it a .25". It didn't bottom out at 2.5" but it will lightly at 2.25 under extreme conditions.

diff. hitting shock bar
 

Hi there i am new to this site but i just finished installing the g link air ride this spring i am runing a 10 bolt and my diff hits the shock bar when lowered. to fix the problem i just cut the shock bar above the diff and rewelded it in 1.25"futher to the back