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So todays project was just to empty the tank - well that escalated into getting the car in the air, taking apart the fender/wheel well to get to the tank, then dropping the tank!
Of course the return line inside the tank snapped when I got the crossover tube disconnected - so I'm on hold until the replacement parts come in from Amazon. Bootleg fireworks: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5829/...71730783_b.jpg That escalated quickly: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/2...6b775e4e_b.jpg 1/2 of a C6 Fuel tank: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5750/...66f2f383_b.jpg |
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Quick update - my fuel lines for the Corvette finally came in - so I tore the gas tank apart to swap out the fuel pump for the Z06 pump - and the new lines. I got everything apart and noticed that my fuel level sensor was messed up. It had a exposed wire on the bottom of the sensor - and the contacts are also bent the wrong way.
So I ordered a new one - and get to play the parts waiting game again. Looking at the new sensor design - they flipped the wire contact points to the top. If I had not discovered this issue - it for sure would have caused me an issue in the future. So maybe by next weekend - I might be able to wrap up this fuel tank swap and get the car back running - after that its engine tear down time! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/572/2...3d0c68e5_b.jpg |
So I had some free time today - so I decided to finally modify my Trans Jack - I might use it to get the gas tank back into the Vette.
This started off as the Torin 1K Lb transmission jack that I got from Northern Tool. I cut the bottom of the stand off - and drilled the three holds for the leg mounts - and finished up this project. Some pics: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/734/2...9bb424b3_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5704/...413d5d9e_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/668/2...a5fc3bc6_b.jpg Youtube overview that I created: Back to the Vette: A few weeks ago I had noticed that the rear tire was leaking air - so I took the car to Discount Tire to check for a nail - they didn't find anything. They noticed there was some corrosion on the inside bead of the rim - they scraped it off and put some black sealant on there to make sure it held air. Fast forward to today - I took the wheel off the car to take it over to the shop - and have them check it again - and I discovered this: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/...2cd0efa9_b.jpg So now I have a ballooned sidewall - and maybe a leaking rim... awesome! Glad my really expensive 345 tire is now junk - I wasn't really planning on buying new rear tires just yet - now looks like I have to add those to my list as well! |
Long time no update...
So my fuel project turned into a big cluster bomb - and I'm going to have to drop the drivetrain down to get full access to it. So since I am going to have to drop the trans and torque tube - I decided to order a clutch and replace the stock LS2 unit while its apart. I picked up a new LS7 clutch for a really good price - and it should hold my power with no problem. I have driven a few LS7 Z06's and I really like the engagement - way different than my LS2. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5797/...1d5516a0_b.jpg Also while I was clutch shopping - I happened to look on Amazon for a set of Kooks long tubes for the SS - I had been watching the price for awhile and the dropped from $800 - to 700. 600, then dropped to $571 - so I picked up a set since they where ridiculously cheap. Those came in as well - I am a long ways away from installing those - but at that price I couldn't pass them up. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/607/2...19be2b26_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/...610ea880_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5826/...6d37658b_b.jpg After the rest of my clutch/fuel parts arrive - I will start tearing into the Vette. |
Truck update:
Awhile back - I replaced all of the outside halogen bulbs with LED's. Today I finished up the lighting upgrade by adding in the footwell 194 lights - and installed LED's in there as well. Overall the footwell lighting was fairly easy - soldering, heat shrink tubing all the wires up is what took the longest. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/2...1a3d1fd9_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5683/...9be07907_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/738/2...a84b03c8_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/682/2...53e42cff_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/711/2...b41ab7e1_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5794/...4f7291d6_b.jpg |
Nice find on the headers for the SS. Still waiting on the SC install. :stirthepot: :lol:
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Sweet cars and great work on the shop!
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Jay - for which car. :G-Dub:
So I started on my clutch install tonight - I got a few parts off of the car. I got the rear splash guards out, the rear wheels off, and the exhaust is off - from the headers back. Next will be the torque tube plate, probably one of the headers, and then it will be rear subframe/diff/trans/torque tube - and I should get access to the clutch. I'm not sure when I'll get to the clutch -as the holidays are coming up and shop time will be limited. This pile is just starting to grow: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5692/...d21fb723_b.jpg |
I wrenched a few more bolts tonight - and got torque tube plate out, and got both of the gas tank shields off the car.
I also measured the height of the trans and subframe and the trans jack - and the max height of my car on the lift - I'll have about 4" of clearance. So I should be able to get the whole rear end out as one unit - and not have to break it apart. That should save some time. I also got my black Gorilla lug nuts installed on the front - I think it looks a lot better then the old chrome lugs. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5801/...bf407547_b.jpg |
So I started off with the Vette sitting on the ground this morning - and well I got a lot done today.
I got the rear coilovers out, then disconnected the rear upper control arms. I had to take out the drivers side long tube header to get access to the bolt holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing. I then got the slave cylinder disconnected, the brake lines disconnected, and the wiring harness that runs down the trans tunnel disconnected. I then setup the trans jack - zipped off the rear subframe bolts - and got started on the torque tube bolts. I struggled with one of the torque tube bolts into the bell housing because that wire harness was in the way. After getting that off - I got the torque tube out and the drive train dropped out of the way. I plugged the brake lines with plugs from my Brembo kit - and a closet wire shelf end cap - saw that suggestion online -and it worked like a charm - no brake leaks here! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5675/...53be0ea6_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/683/2...ac1d7941_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/601/2...d636d23b_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/580/2...893bc2ea_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5781/...e12de862_b.jpg |
So I started off today by getting my fuel system all finished up and reinstalled.
I am glad that the drivetrain was out of the way - it went together so much easier! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1450/...4a6788cc_b.jpg I then started on the clutch side of things - I got most of the bell housing bolts off with no big issue except for the bolt right above the starter. I couldn't get at it front the back or side - and the long tube header was in the way. So I got out my ladder - opened the hood and got the plugs, dipstick, and the header bolts out. I slid it out the bottom of the car after I got down from the ladder. I got the last bolt out - and the bell housing popped off. I then got the flywheel and pressure plate off. Thats where I stopped today - I am not sure when I'll get back to it. With the holidays coming up - plus I am still awaiting a few parts from my Amazon order that I put in last week. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5788/...17faa08a_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5737/...9e8dc02f_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5664/...69c5ef9f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1674/...d9a23c34_b.jpg |
So I finally got some time to get back out into the shop - I got the rear main cover on the Corvette replaced. This included new bolts, rear main seal, and the rear cover gasket.
I also got the input bearing removed from the car - I used a slide hammer and bearing removal tool from Autozone - and it came out with 4 or 5 good hits. I then knocked a new input bearing in with a large socket. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5774/...67505d54_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1624/...de4e74e7_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1636/...e5b51dce_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1707/...559c9e96_b.jpg I also got a few truck parts for Christmas - I got new fog light assemblies - as well as a new interior light switch. The factory switch was randomly diming at night - and you couldn't see any of the gauges. My factory fogs - one of the lenses is corroded - and the the other has crap inside of the light itself. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1441/...ec5a3907_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5632/...b2626060_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1708/...c3c86445_b.jpg |
I got the LS7 flywheel bolted up - it went in with no issue.
I used ARP bolts to attach it to the crank - and went to install my clutch and realized I didn't have an alignment tool. I went to Autozone and Advance - and neither locations had it in stock. Advance will have it by tomorrow morning - so I will get the clutch disk and pressure plate in tomorrow. I also need to get the new slave cylinder installed - as well as my Tick Performance Speed Bleeder as well. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5803/...a94cb70f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1453/...9d192c9d_b.jpg |
I got the clutch disk and pressure plate installed last night - and secured it with ARP bolts. It went together with no issue.
I need to get the bell housing back on the car - then the slave cylinder and the rest of the driveline! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5678/...11285e0a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1607/...3bfe3200_b.jpg |
So Thursday I got the drivetrain back in the car.
I got the new slave cylinder, and the Tick Performance bleeder installed. I finished the fuel system up, hooked up the brake and transmission lines. I also got my Kooks long tubes back into the engine bay - and bolted down with ARP Hardware. I had problems with the new GM slave cylinder - the cylinder did not want to slide all the way into the master cylinder - and the retaining clip wouldn't secure it. There was something wrong with the plastic molding of the slave cylinder - so I ended up taking the retaining clips off the stock 05 unit, and put that onto the new slave cylinder. Everything snapped together and the clips all fit. I am not sure if something changed with the newer slave cylinders - or something is different with the 05's. Either way its all back together. I still need to get the rest of the exhaust installed, the brakes and clutch bleed - and then some gas thrown in this pig and see if it fires up! https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5738/...20cd0f2f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1507/...b5df36cd_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1490/...94e59e2d_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5809/...e8270290_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/...83406a26_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5709/...aab1289e_b.jpg |
So I got the car back together last night - and attempted to go for a test drive - but the car wouldn't go into reverse.
I took the interior apart and tried to adjust the trans linkage - but it still wouldn't go in. Then I thought about the reverse lockout solenoid - and I didn't remember plugging it back in. I ended up putting the car back in the air - reached above the trans and felt the plug. I plugged it in - dropped the car back down and reverse worked! So I went for a test drive and went and got gas. The fuel pump works - and so does both fuel level sensors that I replaced. I got about a half mile from home - and the transmission cooler line popped off and threw ATF all over my long tubes. I got the car pulled over and the smoke cleared out. I didn't have the interior back together and it looked like the scene from Up in Smoke. I was flailing around looking for the block off plate to put back on the trans tunnel. I got the car home - and the put it back on the lift. I cleaned up the under side and popped the trans cooler line back on. I went for another test drive - this time with no issues, then I put the interior back together. I still need to wash the car down - and put the rear splash shield in - and go buy more ATF. No pics of the smoke show - but here is the interior stripped at the gas station: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1651/...c5f1552e_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/...722a5824_b.jpg |
Looks great.
Saved yourself a ton on labor costs :) |
Nice job. Glad the reverse issue was just a matter of connecting a plug.
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Yeah - I can see why shops charge $1500 for a clutch job on this car. No way would I want to pay that.
As for that plug - I knew that I should have marked it. I marked all the other ones with painters tape - and when I was getting the driveline back into the car I didn't even see it in the harness. |
Long time no update - I got the car back together and noticed a fuel smell.
I let the car sit for a few days and I could definately smell gas coming from the drivers side. I noticed fuel coming down drivers tank - and got to work tearing it apart. I pulled the mufflers and this gave me plenty of room up there to get the crossover tube off - and drop the tank. I didn't see any leaks or any holes on the tubes on top of the tank - thats when I noticed the locking ring wasn't fully engaged. I took that ring off - inspected the fuel pump o-ring and it was fine. I hit the locking ring a lot harder time - and it fully seated. I put the tank back in the car - fired it up - and no more gas smell! Now that the fuel side is done - I am going to get started on the motor work. I will install my Comp Cams valve springs, replace the front end gaskets - and start on the blower install this weekend. |
I wish it was that simple to get rid of my fuel smell
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What a pain to drop the fuel system in these cars! |
So I tore into the car today - didn't get too far before I had to quit this evening.
I started my Valve Spring swap today - I got one cylinder done - and have many more to go. I ended up using the cheaper LS Valve spring tool off ebay - link below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSX-LS1-LS2-...201891&vxp=mtr Quality seems decent - and I'll be able to get the rest of the springs swapped with no issue. I am upgrading to Comp Cams 26918's since my CNC ported L92's have L76/Truck valve springs on them - and I don't want to see any valve float when I throw some boost at them. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1596/...616c6cb7_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1660/...bd8b19ea_b.jpg |
I finished up the the Valve spring upgrade on the Passenger side tonight - went well until the Valve Spring tool bolt started to strip out.
I don't know if I was tightening it too hard or what - but I was just using hand tools and the nut locked up on the threads and called them. I ended up using a bunch of washers to cover up the stripped part - and I finished the side. I contacted the seller and he is sending me another bolt/nut. I will start on the driver side when I get the replacement parts - now for a pic: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1703/...e8be6861_b.jpg |
I finally completed a project!
I ran into missing parts, stripped bolt, bad manufacturing all on this Valve spring project. I had 4 different orders/warranty items from Comp Cams - I ordered everything on Monday/Tuesday - and I got everything in 2 days. I finished up the valve springs on the drivers side - and I drained the radiator and pulled the water pump. The steering rack is halfway out. Once I get the PS pump and bracket off the front of the engine - I'll be able to finish pulling the rack. Then I can replace the front seals, pin the crank, and install my ARP crank pulley bolt. Hopefully I'll get some of that done this weekend. I also scheduled my dyno date for March 14th - so I need to get cracking on all of this stuff. A few pics: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1532/...8da1aeb3_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1612/...53af7918_b.jpg |
Nice build !
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Quick update - I got the power steering pump, and the alternator bracket off of the car - this gave me the room to swing the steering rack out of the way.
Now I can get the crank pulley off - and finally replace that leaking front timing cover gasket. I will also spin the motor over to tighten the rocker arms and pushrods down. Finally some progress! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1604/...1c02c8f0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1581/...a6e24e52_b.jpg |
I got the valve train put back together. The pushrods put back in, the rocker arms torqued down. I also got the crank pulley bolt out, and my oil cooler lines finally arrived.
Next will be the crank pulley removal, gaskets replacement, pin the crank and then install the new oil cooler lines. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1652/...d45e2142_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1556/...6b571950_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1556/...2d0d50aa_b.jpg |
I made a lot of progress in the last 2 days.
Yesterday I got the crank pulley off, pulled the front timing cover. I then put new seals and gaskets on the timing cover and put it back together. Tonight I torqued the crank pulley bolt - then removed it. I used the Edelbrock pinning kit to drill into the crank, and then bore out the hole with the reaming tool. I cleaned up the holes - and inserted the pin. I then used my ARP crank bolt - lubed it up - and torqued it down. I am finally done with this round of mods - time to start putting everything back together. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1508/...ee43f783_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1494/...7925cb1d_b.jpg |
Man you've done an amazing amount of work to this car!
Here's a tip for you. Set the balancer in place somewhat, to center the timing cover, before you tighten the cover bolts. This will eliminate the chance of the front seal leaking again. |
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Tonight I drained the oil, removed the filter, and took out the old oil lines.
The oil cooler came out pretty easily - and wasn't too big of a deal. If the car wasn't torn apart - and the steering rack wasn't in the way - I'm sure it would be a lot harder to remove. I got the new oil cooler in - the lines hooked up to the radiator. I also got the steering rack back into place - well almost. I need to get the PS pump and ABS box out of the way - and it should go back into place. Just have to hookup the PS equipment, the water pump - and put the belts back on. I hope to get it back together and running this weekend. I really want to put some miles on the clutch before it gets flogged on the dyno. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1538/...9feb2a27_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1646/...e9bfeedb_b.jpg |
So I worked my ass off the last couple of day - I finished up the install - and put everything back together.
I finished the install tonight - and fired up the car. I found one leak - the PS low pressure side is leaking out of the fitting. I just need to tighten that down and I should be good to go. I also need to finish filling the cooling system. |
congrats!
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I put a few hundred miles on the car - no huge issues popped up, so I started tearing into the car today.
I got the Intake manifold out, as well as the CAI, and the belt and tensioner off. Tomorrow I will pull the top engine cover - and swap it for the Edelbrock one. I also need to drain the radiator - and replace the O-ring on the T-stat as it was leaking. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1579/...48797a4d_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1629/...71f2b9f5_b.jpg |
Quick update - I got the top engine plate swapped for the Edelbrock one.
I installed the Edelbrock cast tensioner bracket, the new tensioner, and the cast idler bracket that bolts to the water pump. I also pulled the Power Steering Reservoir - and removed the GM bracket - and swapped that for the Edelbrock bracket. It moves the reservoir more towards the drivers side of the engine bay. Also - my 3.25" pulley came in - so I should be running about 8-9.5 PSI when I get the car tuned. I still need to pull the bumper - install the intercooler, the brackets for the IC pump, and the blower itself. I will probably pull the bumper tomorrow and get started on all of that. Now for some pics: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1618/...9e0e6e6a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1689/...4c334a02_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1636/...289ac8db_b.jpg |
Quick update - got the front end tore off the car - so that I can run the intercooler, the IC pump, and the hoses for it. I'll start on that project tomorrow.
I also had to make a tool to tighten up the water pump bolts. The Edelbrock kit uses a bracket that ties into the passenger side water pump bolts - and there hardware is a 6MM Hex head. My standard length H6 socket wouldn't fit in the bracket - so I went to Lowes and got an H6 6" socket - I ended up cutting probably 4" or so off of the socket - and hit each side with my angle grinder until it fit. You could pull the fan out of the car - and it might fit but I needed a tool incase I needed an emergency fix - I will not pull the fan every time I need to pull the water pump. I know I ruined the hardened steel by cutting it - but those WP bolts only go to 18-22 ft lbs and it tightened them with no issue. Now for some pics: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1476/...2dce326f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1684/...8275b1f3_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1512/...1a107a80_b.jpg |
I busted ass last night and got the intercooler installed, ran all of the intercooler hoses, as well as install the intercooler reservoir.
I also ran all the electrical for the IC pump, and got all of that hooked up. Tonight I got a buddy stopping by to help me drop in the blower. Hopefully I can finish everything up and get this thing fired up next week. Now for some pics: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1637/...c18d6668_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1504/...a3c5c789_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1573/...43157f47_b.jpg |
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