Sorry to hear about this. I'm glad to hear those people stoped to help you. Still some good people left.

Thanks Wayne - Definitely restored some much needed faith in mankind for myself. :thumbsup:

That's my understanding assuming it's a GM cam. I don't know why anyone would hide that info other than a drag racer. :unibrow:

RIP you POS Demon :D

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...MAG2669-XL.jpg

http://advrider.s3.amazonaws.com/dhorse.gif

Bye bye for now you're in good hands
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2670-L.jpg

Todd is handling the initial insurance posturing and once that baseline is established we'll determine who does how much of what.

He's done multiple complete builds for a close friend and worked at another good friends high-end body shop for 15 years so I trust his ability and ethics.

This is one low dollar example
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/Hot-Rod...37_4xUdQ-M.jpg

Outside of the car still looks great :thumbsup:

The cam performance curve feels decent to me but it would be nice to know specs. After all this is a seriously high tech 1st gen small block. :D

Did you run flat top pistons in the 408? I'm running flatties and will get the heads cc'd to eliminate unkowns. IIRC the existing valve springs are 403 lb rate with 175 lb seat.......they'd probably break my old skool cam's back. :)

Here's my current set-up..........please don't laugh out loud, it has worked flawlessly for 22+ years. :P
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2643-L.jpg

The heads, new intake & carb, and MSD ignition considering the suspension and tire combo should wake the motor up nicely until I can build a real motor. The bar in Oregon and especially Eugene/Springfield isn't raised as high as CA & WA so I can hold it down longer and break harder to compensate for wimpy motor. :unibrow:

Thanks, we both know its the Orange........Stielow is learning. :unibrow:

Regarding the oil source during the fire........appears the mechanical oil pressure guage line melted through quick and turned into an oil jet spraying up on the hood. If you look at the picture you can see clean area just above the master cylinder. Surprising how much oil that little orifice can pump at 50-60 psi considering how fast I shut it down. I went back to the scene today and the oil trail is less than 100 yds and began 250 yds from where I launched.

Yes, there will be an electric guage and sending unit replacing it.

I haven't a chance to perform an autopsy on the carb yet.

My guess is you were using a plastic oil line? Stick with the mechanical gauge and get yourself a steel braided line.

I wouldn't waist anytime on the carb. Junk it and chalk it up to education costs.

yeah it does! :woot:

It was the plastic line supplied with the gauge when I bought it 20 years ago. We have a great hose and fitting supplier locally that can make a custom supply line for me. Thanks for the advice, I'll check my options with them.

I want to know what caused the fuel leak if possible and I'll be stripping the carb for spare parts anyway.

I have either seen that car before or one very similar. I think it was on "My Classic Car" with Dennis Gauge. What a garage too, the wood is beautiful... not exactly my thing, but very appreciable.

Possibly Good Guys Pleasanton?

possibly?

Hard to say. I soak up that and a few other shows off the DVR with my coffee on an occasional weekend. He does a lot of cool car shows/events with a few interviews of participants at each one. My girlfriend can hardly stand his mannerisms and exaggerated hand jestures, catch phrases etc... Someday I would love to have a picture of the two together if I ever see him at a show. It is fun to annoy, to an extent.:unibrow:

Car was for sale at GoodGuys PUYALLUP just a couple weeks ago... I looked at it just to see what was up. $30 some thousand was all he was asking.... so I assume (since the hood wasn't open and nobody was around) that it's a 350 ci...

I took pics of it because it had INTROS --- and was going to use the pics to pester FETornio in a future post. :rofl:

$30k it's like your buying the Intros and getting the car for free :yes:

:cheers:

:rofl: :woot:


Greg - The car is a great driver, pretty sure its a ZZ4 350 w/ OD auto. It has great curb appeal even with the Intro's. :D Price is very reasonable considering the quality and build cost.

If you'd like to keep your Mech gauge, just go to a teflon braided line with AN fittings. That is what I run

And post some pics of you taking a sledge to that POS demon carb ;)

That statement says something about Demon's reputation and performance coming from a drag racer. :D

I had another racer suggest the Holley HP yesterday. I'll be meeting with another local engine builder to determine a cam, valve train, induction, and ignition plan for the motor with the AFR heads.

The Unilite distributor was barbequed so an MSD system is probably happening.

I contacted someone to build a braided line yesterday. :thumbsup:

I've been grinding out a parts list today to help the adjuster out next week. If you see any obvious over-sights or have any advice please let me know. :thumbsup:

Air Cleaner Housing - Summit 14" chrome SUM-G3000 Modified to clear Demon air horn $21.95
Air Filter - K&N 14" x 3" E3737 $59.95
Barry Grand Speed Demon 650VS elec choke carb 1282010VE $456.47 (with many hours of tuning, drilled pump nozzles, power valve, jets, pump cam, etc.)
Carb fuel feed lines Russell RUS-641180 $73.95
Carb to fuel pump Summit SUM-G3154 $39.95
Carb spacer 1" MGR-6005 $20.95 (existing should be OK)
Carb base gaskets Edelbrock EDL-3899 $6.95
Throttle return springs Holley HLY-20-89 $14.95
*Edelbrock fuel pump EDL-1721 $94.95
Edlebrock Torker II intake manifold 5001 $134.95 not incl temp and PVC fittings, gaskets, bolts.
Mallory Unilite Distributor 3748202 $275.95
Mallory MAA-700 coil ballast resistors $16.95
Mallory MAA-28720 Promaster Coil $95.95
Taylor Cable TAY-73051 8mm plug wires $61.95 (labor to fit to looms)
Trans-Dapt TRD-9370 Wire Looms $14.95
Oil pressure guage line (mechanical) Autometer ATM-3223 $7.69 (Will use Summit SUM-G2961 $29.95 braided steel)
Valve covers SUM-G3301 $24.95
Valve cover gaskets Mr. Gasket MRG-5860 $14.95
PCV grommet Summit SUM-G3410 1” $1.50
Breather grommet Summit SUM-G3411 .75” $1.50
K&N Breather 1” nipple KNN-62-1170 $18.95

PCV line 1.5’ .5/16” ID?

*Tremec T56 Magnum vent line? Check condition

Engine wiring harness Classic Ind. CA97524 $84.99
Front lighting harness Classic Ind. CA97541DI $189.99 (check fitment)
Water temp line 4’ -3 AN Summit ATM-3235 $49.95
Throttle lever Classic Ind. 3923503 $16.95
Battery cable pos. Starter 48” Classic Ind. N153 $12.99
Battery cable neg. Alternator 32” Classic Ind. N130 $12.99

*Windshield wiper motor Classic Ind. A40140 $142.99
Grommets Classic Ind. 4910180 $9.95
Wiper motor to firewall seal Classic Ind. CA180 $2.99
Washer pump Classic Ind AC Delco G7028 $68.99
Washer hoses
Wire gutter Classic Ind. 3864327 $7.95
Hood to Cowl Seal Classic Ind . 3927464 $8.95
Heater hose set Classic Ind. C1 $19.99
Upper radiator hose Classic Ind. 3956662 $19.99
*Lower radiator hose Classic Ind. MH401 $9.99

*Starter motor? Classic Ind. G7243 $160.99 (Summit mini?PMW-9000 $176.95)
*Alternator?? Summit PWM-27297 $141.95
*Timing cover Milodon Summit MIL-65555 $30.95

*unsure of condition


I'm assuming the new Wilwood master valve and proportioning valve is OK


Exhaust system will need to be cut and rewelded again to remove transmission unless it's pulled out the front attached to motor. Accessing the upper Quicktime Bellhousing bolts with trans bolted up is probably not an option. Drilling the firewall for access to the allen head bolts might be possible. Might be faster out the front. Bellhousing to shift tunnel clearances are very tight. Remove console to access shifter tunnel cover plate.

Barry Grand Speed Demon 650VS elec choke carb 1282010VE $456.47 (with many hours of tuning, drilled pump nozzles, power valve, jets, pump cam, etc.)
this should be in the $7-800 range. They are out of business so it should be considered a collectors item.:yes:

Sounds like a complete rotisserie re-do to me....

This is how Rudy's Camaro started --- and then with all the work just to get it torn down -- you start with the "well... as long as we're here we might as well do....."


Ya know what - 16 months later - it's worked out just fine. We've fixed everything that was ever wrong with the car... so he's going to have a real decent car now. :D

It's close enough to get a Holley HP especially if I get compensated for tuning labor which I will add to that list. :yes:

I'm tempted to spray that Demon with clear and make a pedestal for it. :unibrow:

...........I wish you were my brother-in-law. :unibrow:

........I know........wish in one hand poop in the other and see which one fills up fastest. That summarizes poor Norwood's life. :D

Moved the new ride into the garage today:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2672-L.jpg

Zoom-zoom baby :unibrow:

Let the teardown commence!

Are you making any mods to the sub? I picked one up awhile back that needs a little tlc To the right front, in front of the crossmember. It looks like somebody did some redneck towing around the woods or bumped into it when it was sitting for the last several years.

I was happy to find one that is solid and straight as far as suspension and body mounts are concerned.

Your list looked pretty thourough, but I would echo Vince somewhat on labor raising value but it is hard to justify. Also, I thought BG was back... even if someone bailed them out?

Well the subframe plan was to do arms, geometry, real shocks, and spindles but that money is probably gone with upgrades associated with the fire. Since the motor needs to come out for insurance work that creates an opportunity to install the heads, properly reseal the oil pan, new headers with good flanges and improved clearances would be an improvement. A mini-starter to replace the stocker........it never ends. :D

The sub I have is pushed inward slightly just to the rear of the upper control arm mount but those frames don't look to be too hard to tweak IMO. I've checked the width and triangulated spec measurements it doesn't appear to be more than .25" out but I haven't checked the vertical dimensions yet. Once I get torn down and cleaned up I'll get it straighted and weld up the seams for additional strength have it blasted and powdercoated.

I'll be working with the restoration shop on fairly capturing labor where-ever possible. Every dollar adds up even though the itemization takes a fair amount of time. Wire, terminals, and fasteners add up fast.

I believe BG was bought, I'm thinking I heard by Summit.

Wow Sieg sorry to hear about this but hat least you caught it so you stil have a car to rebuild. Keep going you'll get it back on the road in no time! :thumbsup:

She'll be back.. Bigger, Better, Faster & REV approved!!

Thanks Rick, it'll happen. :yes:
Rev is having separation anxiety.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Animals/Pupp...IMAG1362-M.jpg

Man, I can't believe I missed this. Sorry for the troubles Sieg but I'm glad it wasn't so bad.

I've never liked mechanical oil pressure gauges because of the simple fact that you are bringing hot oil into the car. There's no reason to not use an electric gauge from now on. Corvettes have a electrical aftermarket upgrade for the factory gauge. I'm sure there's one out there for the Camaro. I'd upgrade to electric.

I've seen that thing somewhere!!

Can't remember exactly - so long ago....


Hey! We actually drove Rudy's today! OMG... that car came out killer!

Thanks Trey. I'll probably run a braided line to the existing guage for a quick fix now. At sometime I'd like to have a 5" and 2-5/8 Pro Comp guage cluster or the Stack dash module.

You DNA is still all over that thing. :D
Look familiar?
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2674-M.jpg

Started the disassembly tonight, did you Weld the other top brake bracket fastner in? I don't have enough heat or horsepower to get it lose. 3/8" hex 1/2" drive impact socket will be purchased tomorrow.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2676-M.jpg

Where are the pictures of Rudy's ride!? Break your iPhonie? :mad:

Sieg, if your on a budget all you need for now are upper control arms, sway bar, and stiffer springs. Weld the seams on the sub. Try and squeeze a Speed Direct rack-n-pinion into the budget. They are hassel free and bolt right up. That will eliminate the steering box and all the steering linkage which is great for clearance and weight loss and most importantly give you excellent steering response.

As far as motor goes, give those heads back to Weld and get some with a 64cc combustion chamber and 2.05 intake valve and run flat tops. May as well get a get a crank shaft while your at it and build yourself a 383. Get the forged rotating assembly from Eagle. Run a Comp 280 Solid Magnum cam if you are running power brakes. If no power brakes jump to the 292. Victor Junior intake and Holley 830 HP. That should get you around 500 hp.

Gaetano,

I'm leaning to SPC uppers/lowers, good double adjustable shock, already have stiff low springs, the spare subframe came with Hotchkis lowered BB springs and 1-1/8 tubular sway bar. Just installed a new Lee 12.7 firm steering box. :(

Since the motor is coming out installing the heads are the priority. I'm going to get the heads cc'd and see what I have. The heads, carb, intake, and ignition whould be a decent improvement from where it was. Until the insurance adjusters inspection next week I'm somewhat in the dark.

A real motor would be nice, but I'd be real happy with one that runs right now. :D

Thanks for the input.

trust me , you'll be happier with that Lee box. Don't be sad at all. :yes:

No complaints, the firm valving makes a big difference. If I had all new tie-rod ends and control arm bushings it should be pretty precise.

Since the car is at the hospital, hopefully in short-stay, it allows time to get some work done on the spare subframe I picked up...........Any subframe advice is appreciated since I've never been down this road before.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...MAG2683-XL.jpg

Tonight I did an amatuer job of checking the frame to get a rough idea of how tweaked it is. It doesn't appear to be to bad, the drivers rear mount is outward about .5", the upper control arm mounts measure out uniform width and level. I feel pretty confident that I can take it to the frame shop and not be told it's a lost cause.

What I want to do is get it straightened, clean up the wire splatter and sloppy factory welds, strip it (I'll assume media blasting is the quickest and cheapest), patch in where the subframe connectors were welded in and cut out, possibly cut out and patch in the underside of the motor mount cross member since it looks like it lost a fight with a floor jack numerous times, clamp and weld the center skid-ski where it's lose at the front, then weld up the seams in the rail, relocate the upper control arm mounts and fill in the old, sand it down and have it painted.

Does that work and sequence make sense?

Will a frame shop straighten a subframe without it attached to the car?

Do all the welding work on the frame before you have it blasted

I'm going to pay close attention to this as I will be on this track eventually too with the spare sub I picked up. Please keep the updates rolling out as you progress.

I am pretty envious of your mobile workstation/alignment rack that you have(aka trailer). I won't be so fortunate but it could inspire a cart of some sort. I only have 2 stalls to play in and a somewhat steep driveway.

I have similar intentions to what you laid out. In contrast to Mako's suggestion I talked to a local blaster and he was willing to blast mine at the start and then do it again to clean it up before paint/coating. That said, mine has a good deal more surface rust. I figured it would save me some surface prep work and thereby preserve more metal that way.

Mine also has the passenger side frame horn kicked up in front of the crossmember where the bumper attaches. Some chooch tried to repair it before with some blow through chicken poop welding attempt.:(

Have you seen This Jack plate from Screamin Performance?

Thanks Robert. That trailer has been handy over the years.

I'd thought about plating it for strength, hadn't thought about weld slots or tie down hooks. :thumbsup: