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What is this "fusion" process you're doing? Is it an oxy/acet weld with no filler rod? (I googled and that was what seemed to come up) Jeff- |
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You can fusion weld using any welding method. But it's all in the fitment of the 2 pieces. The joint has to be very tight and you're just melting the seam and adding none or almost zero filler rod. In my case I'll use TIG because the weld is softer and can be flattened (hammered) easier. That's why most people use oxy/acet as that leaves even a softer weld that's easier to work. Mig is very hard and you really just have to grind it off. But it's much more forgiving for fitment and is way faster. Jim |
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TIG can be metal worked --- MIG is a grinder.... :D |
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Thanks ! :thumbsup: |
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(I'm really struggling with the tig and thin sheet metal, seems like I get way too much heat before the puddle starts to flow. Can't wait to see some of yours laid down and look at your heat ribbons.) Ben was nice enough to do me a rendering of my latest garage build. 1954 Chevy wagon on a 07 Trailblazer SS AWD frame and drivetrain. Channeled (or body dropped), some shaving, frenching, smoothing, and a little pancake-ing of the roof, but mostly trying to stay true to the original 50's look. Jeff- |
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Your tungsten should be really pointed.... and turn that heat down! That's the beauty of TIG -- The Control -- Are you using a foot pedal? Just get the arc started -- back off and throttle into it until your puddle starts to form then back off. I like to modulate the pedal... personally -- but everyone has a different style. Also -- what sizes are you using?? |
My welds probably won't be that great. Thom at GodSpeed here in my town opens his shop every Tuesday night to train people on equipment and processes. He has been working with me on fusion welding with Tig and metal finishing the joint back smooth with a hammer and dolly. I practice at home with a bunch of cutoff pieces so that when I get to the actual car it won't look horrible.... but it probably will.
Have you started a build thread on the 54 ?? PS, like greg mentioned - I use a 1/16 tungsten, set my machine to the minimum to melt the materials and then pulse weld with the pedal. That way I have plenty of pedal movement without melting it onto the floor... |
I'm playing with 18ga steel, butt weld with no gap. I do have foot control.
My machine setting... http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../401613016.jpg My tungsten... http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../401613013.jpg http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../401613014.jpg What I seem to be lacking is TALENT! Hopefully I can make do with plenty of seat time. :_paranoid I seem to be having the same issue that people talk about when they weld cast parts. Right when everything gets hot enough to puddle and flow, I've gone to far and it blows out. I just need mooooooore practice. Jeff- |
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A little idea of where I am now... Building the raised floor. (gives an idea of how much the body is dropped over the frame, trying to get that Greg Weld ride height :unibrow: ) http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267.../401613495.jpg Jeff- |
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--Eric |
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Also what's your CFM gas flow? Should be around 12 CFM (20 PSI). Too much gas flow can cause issues. |
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I've been making some really artistic scrap sculptures in the process though :rofl: . Jeff- |
Parts !
Got the Transmission Mounts and the Rear Lower Arm mount system back from water jet Friday. Thx Eric for doing the CAD !!
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...wr-Susp-01.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...nt-Rear-05.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...wr-Susp-02.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...wr-Susp-03.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Mounts-00.jpg Jim |
Those came out REAL nice.
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That's gonna look so killer when it's all tig'ed together!
Jeff- |
don't know how i missed this one! well in this case better late than never
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Bout Time. :D :D :D
Just Sayin |
Thanks guys, glad you're liking the progress so far.
It's really depressing how slow I am at getting this done... never enough hours and just when you get started - you gotta go to work, or mow the grass or fix something around the house, etc. The shifter mount is out being machined and the shifter is on it's way now. Gonna pull the mold off the hood this weekend. That should be fun. Jim |
Are they on yet? :D :D
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Received 6 tube disconnects to be able to remove the lower rear suspension to get the transaxle and torque tube out. Used Ballistic products.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...mp_p_1467.html http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...isconnects.jpg Got my shifter mount back. Just need to drill and tap a couple holes for the bolts ….. LOL ! :rofl: http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...illetBlock.jpg Last night I picked up all the fabric, resin, gel coat, cups, etc for the hood mold and made the cut templates. (and put down 2 yards of mulch on a flower bed ...) Jim |
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--Eric |
I think it would be cheaper to pave the yard and paint it green ....
:thumbsup: Jim |
Prepping to make to hood mold this weekend.
Built the template to allow a flange around the hood so there will be a 5 inch flange around the perimeter of the finished mold. That allows for excess material to extend outside the part line – and provide room for the vacuum bag system I’ll be using. I’ll transfer the template to ¼ in melamine – hot glue that to the bottom side of the hood and seal the gap where the hood and melamine meet so that resin won’t seep under there and lock to part to the mold. Then I’ll hand wax 7 coats of Release on the hood and flange – and I’ll be ready to lay that up ! http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-01.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-02.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-03.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...eling-Clay.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...Release-00.jpg Jim |
Shifter is in-process at Dreyer Reinbold Racing. Always fun to watch a cnc !
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...ter-cnc-01.jpg Jim |
Okay this is the first time I am going to ask this question - Where is the video cause I know you took one.
:yes: :yes: :yes: Quote:
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Yes, we attached a GoPro to the tooling head of the Hurco and recorded the whole deal. And If I was just smart enough to be able to post it to youtube or something (which I've never done...) you's could watch it. But, I'm clueless. :lol: Jim |
Looking good Jim!!!:thumbsup:
John |
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It's very simple - just sign up for an account and you select the video and hit upload |
This car is awesome!
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Looking good bud! Found the pics of the front of the car! :lol:
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Got Mold ?
Had a chance to build the hood mold this weekend. 2 of my friends stopped by to add some help on this project. Tom (grey shirt) runs the paint shop at Dreyer Reinbold Racing and Matt (brown shirt) runs the fabrication/tooling shop where I work. These guys are always willing to jump in and it’s GREAT to have friends who enjoy cars ! Thx Guys ! :thumbsup:
We finished the flange by cutting thin kerfs into the material at places where we needed it to bend – then we sprayed some water on it to relieve the fiber tension. Then we put bagging tape on the underside of the hood in the weather strip channel – and attached the wooden flange to that and taped it shut so air wouldn't leak thru. We flipped the hood back to the top side and added clay around the perimeter of the hood to the masonite flange to get rid of any openings that the resin might seep under. Then we sealed the wood flange, clay and hood a couple more times. We used a really hard graphite surface coat on the hood first to give the mold surface a tough finish so I can pull multiple stock sized parts from it later if needed. We poured that onto the hood/flange and spread it about 1/8 to ¼ inch thick – and then let it cure until you could touch it and just leave a print. Then another coating of the graphite surface coat followed up with the fiberglass and epoxy resin. We did 4 layers on this limited production mold and we balanced it by ensuring there was the same amount of fiber in all directions (0, 90, +45, -45) so it won't warp. On a production mold you’d want to do 12 balanced layers to give the mold some bulk so it never flexes. Added a perforated release film on the very last layer. Perforated to let the excess resin bleed thru – an Teflon released so the last layer of glass/resin doesn’t stick to the white bleeder/breather cloth I added last. The bleeder function of the cloth acts like a sponge to soak up the excess resin – and the breather function of the cloth allows me to put a bag over the entire part and pull vacuum over the entire surface while pushing the glass/resin tight down onto the mold like a vise. We pulled about 30 inches of vacuum on the part using a vacuum pump for air-conditioning service hooked to a 10 gallon tank from harbor freight. 24 hours later, remove all the bagging, flange, clay and pop the hood outta the new mold. 1 each hard graphite mold ready for sealing, release, and building part. Here's the pics for ya. We do the same for the seat mold… http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-10.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-11.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-12.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Flange-13.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...od-Mold-01.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...od-Mold-02.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...od-Mold-03.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...od-Mold-04.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...od-Mold-05.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/Vac-Tank.jpg Jim |
NO, I don't got mold! As far as I know! :lol: That looks fantastic man. Can't wait to see more progress! :cheers:
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Oh, well were gonna have to hook you up with some mold too then !! :yes:
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this is just plain BADa$$!!
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Shifter mount is finished at the machine shop. It’s off to get black anodized. New Kirban Shifter came in.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a.../S-Base-06.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...ew-Shifter.jpg Jim |
Did a quick assemble of all the parts before sending the mount to be anodized.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...r_Mount-30.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...r_Mount-29.jpg Jim |
Jim,
AWESOME STUFF!!!! You are having WAY too much fun with this project. Are you going to the Columbus Goodguy's show? --Eric |
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Not much of an update for ya… Picked up some more parts for the car.
LED digital inserts (brake and turn light) for my NOS tail light module. These set directly into the reflector well under the lens covers. You can use either the provided connector posts and they plug in the socket just like the light bulb – or you can remove the socket posts and connect a hardwired pigtail with a standard disconnect. The slot in the middle of the card slips over the reflector divider between the brake and turn light sections. Also received the LED flasher unit and excellent installation instructions for the kit. http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Lights-00.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Lights-01.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Lights-02.jpg Received my DNA Muffler. Stainless materials with little to no back pressure with their flow-thru design – and I hope it has the kinda sound I’m looking for. I’ll use one in the middle of the car under the torque tube. Idea came from John’s Ironwork’s Nova build. I’ll clip the ends off to a 3 inch opening and install a Q/D band clamp that you all use. http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...Muffler-00.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...Muffler-01.jpg http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...Muffler-02.jpg And finally new door mirrors. My car came with a different (more modern) style that I didn’t like – so I picked an earlier Porsche set that has more aero style IMO. We’ll see… http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...sis/Mirror.jpg More parts in a few weeks. Jim |
Great update..... but we need more!
How are the CF parts coning along? Stop making parts for other people so you can make your parts! --Eric |
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