I bought my Dorman MC off Amazon and it was aluminum.

Mark,

When you have a chance, could you please post some pics of your roll bar install? From what I see in past pictures, looks like you have a removable harness bar, and the down bars go through to the trunk have smaller off shoots that tie in to the shock cross member. Do those happen to line up with the top of the coil over shocks? Could you provide any insight to your thought process and design of it? Plan on running door bars?

Thanks as always!

John

I called Dorman tech dept. today and gave him the part # listed by Mark and they told me that it is plastic and has been plastic for at least 7 years. Not sure what to think. :hairpullout:

I just looked on Amazon, no description on what made of. :waveflag:

Amazon has a great return policy so if a plastic one shows up you could probably just send it back.

That’s why I ordered mine from Amazon, free shipping and return policy.

I didn’t have a big enough order to get free shipping from Summit at that time.

I got mine in early February and it has an aluminum body. I’ve already removed the crimped on factory connection and it is threaded just like Mark described.

I was hesitant when I ordered mine also. I figured if it wasn’t metal I would return it and try again from somewhere else.

Wes

A trick I have done to a lot of my Camaros. A Caprice license plate holder flips down and cams over. Make it easier to fuel up.

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Camaro LT5
 

Sled Alley is working the exhaust. The reason we are building before we paint is so we can modify things if we need to.

This cars are always hard to get the 3 inch exhaust over the rear axle.

On this car we cut into the body to allow the exhaust over the axle to go higher up.

The photos are of the car at full jounce.

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Another touch is adding tie down points to the DSE subframe. Makes it easier to tie it down in the trailer.

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What year caprice Mark ? .... ps this is why I hate you lol you know all the perfect factory parts to use lol

Around 1991


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Nice work on the exhaust. Are those made mufflers or bought? The welds make it look custom made.

Thanks for the update!
Have more questions for you, I know, I'm that annoying kid in class that asks all the questions :y0!:

What are the tabs/brackets circled below?

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We know you and most everybody makes those trunk notches in order to route the exhaust up over the rear, but in this one pic, it looks like there's a section taken out from the rear seat area. What was that for?

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As always, thanks for sharing and your time!

The holes in the top photo are pass throughs for the diff vent, fuel tank vent Two Much Canisters. Also a pass through for wiring.

The tab in the middle photo is the pickup point for a brace brace that reinforces the pan hard rod. I’ve added this to my last 4 build to stiffen up the DSE bracket.

The last photo is the clearance hole we cut into the floor pan for exhaust clearance. We will fill patch it once the exhaust is done. It gave us a ton of extra room for the 3 inch pipe to go over the axle.


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Hey mark, what Master Cylinder, Brake Booster and proportioning system are you using on this car? Thanks

The Detroit Speed booster and master. Prop valve Willwood off memory.


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If you’re running ABS why are you using a prop valve? I’ve seen it on a few of your builds and with the C5 ABS I have for my car I know it controls bias. Is it just a back up fail safe you’re using it for?

Yes I balance the system with ABS turned off then turn on the ABS. Yes it is an event of ABS system fault. Not likely but give me a piece of mind.


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Good information. Does having the prop valve in it set to balance the car with the ABS off mess with the balance when the ABS is turned back on?

Anyone want to bet Mark's brain is running overtime with this quarantine thing ... off work, isolation,... coming up with his next great part, mod, build ,trend

Not hardly. Binge watching TV show with my wife and the dogs.... oh and I cleaned the shop.


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Sled Alley finished the exhaust looks great.

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Have anything cool to sell? :lol:

Exhaust looks great, nice clean exit. It's exactly how I'd like mine to be.

No resonators on this one? Hoping the new mufflers will do the trick?

Yes hope the mufflers are enough. If it too loud we can add mufflers.

Thanks this exhaust system is the best system I have ever had done.


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Hey Mark,

I just wanted to confirm the exhaust is the “kit” available from Holley except the mufflers which are the Proto types.

Thanks

Yup - they get hot.....

This is the “kit” modified a lot to allow the bigger mufflers.

The standard Holley system fits nice and works well. I just want my car a bit quieter.


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A couple photos of the pockets in the floor pan to clear the kick ups over the rear axle.

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Awesome. Thanks for the follow up pictures.

I can now see clearly those other holes on the left, they go through to the trunk for your vents and wiring.

I'd like to see how that other bracket works to strengthen the panhard bar mount if you have pics of that complete.

Thanks!

Is that your "burble" tune Dave? :lmao:

Nothing intentional! Just over-run - happens when fueling changes rapidly such as going from deep throttle to lift-foot (or clutch-fuel cutoff) - excess fuel continues combustion into the exhaust system. Sometimes (like this photo) mixture in exhaust is too rich to burn until it reaches outside air and then has enough oxygen to burn. Kills mosquitoes as a side benefit....

I have tinkered with the calibration on how enters fuel-cut (either decel or clutch) - as well as rate of change of targeted fuel ratio and spark timing during these events to minimize burble - but can only do so much when going from ~800-900g/sec airflow to ~50-100g/sec in short order.

Makes cool photos though!

Dave

It does make cool photos...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d878d4f755.jpg


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So do the red rotors , asking for mercy lol

Camaro LT5
 

One this build we are using two intercooler pumps. To clean up the plumping we joined the two 3/4 inch lines into a 1 inch hose. We then hard lined part of it

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Today we drilled the holes to mount the fender emblems. Aaron nailed it! The curvature is dead on.

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Small details like a solid Battery disconnection is nice. We started doing this on the last few builds and I like the switch better than the battery mounted ones.

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The fuel controllers are mounted in the trunk. Also a little fuse block for them. The GM instructions for the LT5 said it just needs one fuel pump. My math shows it needs two. So the GM fuel pump controller will run one pump and then a VaporWorx will run the 2nd pump. This keep the crate controller ECM happy. The stock GM fuel control module will not carry enough current to control two pumps.

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Optima / Detroit Speed Battery Mount

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Two Much Fuel and Diff vents. The holes in the DSE rear crossmember are for the -6 AN bulkhead fittings.

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