Look to see if there is a big azz GROUND between motor and chassis -- lots of people overlook that and it will cause all manor of starter motor ills.:rolleyes:



Funny on the vasectomy -- I got a shiny new Red Steve Millen tricked out Miata from my wife the day I got mine. :thumbsup:

I got a double ruptured L3-4 disk December 16th for mine............I was still being very cautious too. :mad: Don't think I'll drive the car on the 16th. :_paranoid

Not sure on the starter issue ground isn't in place so it's now on the list. :thumbsup:

With the failure to fire issue at break-in time the little guy got a workout which could have created an issue. Or the battery is just a little weak and with additional heat it resists. It's been on a float charger, I'll put a meter on it shortly.

The first time it happened I rolled it backwards and tried to lite it in reverse, it didn't lite but I tried the starter and it worked fine. Then I went and filled up after a little 2 mile run on the freeway and it failed again. Thankfully I was parked in a spot that had a slope so a little push and 2nd gear got it to fire.

The fine tuning after other people have been involved and new products were installed is part of the game. ;)

Congrats and she's lookn GREAT!!!!

Going out to install my new MC in a few

We'll be "MC buddies" :woot:

Thanks Doggy!

You're going to like having a man-pedal. :D :thumbsup: :D

I bench bled mine and used a Mighty Vac starting with the longest lines and got a good pedal first attempt.

Battery was at 13.07 volts, female spade switch connection on solenoid was a little loose, starter gear clearance looked a little tight so I added one shim.

If I make a 10 Ga motor to inner fender ground lead would that be adequate?

Edit - Quick test drive, no starter issues.

But the 6.5 Power Valves are an issue. Hopefully I can locate a couple 5 or 5.5's locally today.

Congrats man! She looks great and ready to roll again... better than ever... and your work is clean. :thumbsup:

I'm a big boy now!! :willy: :willy: :willy:

A mighty vac?? Please explain

Just my personal preference... with a bigger cam I don't run PV's

Mighty Vac: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp

Hmmm.....cam isn't huge: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5002/

The vac secondary Demon worked decent with a 5.5 but this set up doesn't appear to get much more than 10" at idle so far. Local shop doesn't have 5.0's but have 5.5 and 4.5's........error on the low vac side?

Downside to running power valve plugs on the street??

Thanks for the vac thing.. I thought you were talking about something else

As you know the power valve allows the carb to be used with main jets that are about 8 sizes smaller, which will allow better gas mileage during part throttle cruising which sometimes is the case during much of the time of street driving. So If get rid of the power valve, you must go bigger with the main jet sizes. (5-8 sizes bigger) Car will run a little richer and may load up a little while idling ( I just rev it a little and she stays clean). IMOHO i am in and out of the gas most of the time so it never sees the throttle in one position for very long.. My car pulls 3.5-4" vac at idle
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NO... it should be equal gauge to your positive battery cable.


Technically you can fudge down a size or so and make the run as short as possible.

I generally make it a "loop" from the bolt that goes thru the motor motor mount to the block (bellhousing or similar).

It's a circuit -- so the draw of the starter (200 amps) must be carried thru that circuit... i.e., the ground. You've got "wubba" motor mounts and tranny mount and blah blah blah... so it's best to just assume you have lousy ground circuit and make one that you know handles the job. Things will run better electrically. :thumbsup: