And I missed the obvious, you must be a Soundgarden fan?

:beavis: Hell yes!

You'll like it even better in person. It is starting to look like a car instead of a pile of parts.:thumbsup:

I think Matt A said it best. If you walk through the entire junk yard that some of these threads are you can find some treasures.

It's a 437ci SBC with sb2.2 heads, intake from the used NASCAR parts pile.

Dam dyno run cost me a BBQ dinner:bur2:

^^ Let it be known that's the nicest thing that Rob ever said about me or my car. :lol:

Thanks buddy. :D


Thanks bro... where you been hiding? Stop it. :hello:

Thanks man, and as Rob said, it is quite the cesspool here. :computer:

Motor is a story in itself but Dart Little M, Callies/Lunati, Joe Gibbs SB2.2 heads, and E85 conversion are the highlights.

And YES a fellow Soundgarden fan here. I was wearing my Soundgarden shirt when my last Camaro caught on fire and the front half of it burned in front of me, so the connection to my next car just kinda made sense to me. :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps44b05131.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps6ea54d07.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...pse3c31eac.jpg

And I do have a new (different) Soundgarden shirt for this time around. :rockin:

http://s236.photobucket.com/user/fla...d5e5b.jpg.html

no thats more like it. I'd expect no less from the Flash camp!!

Sorry to hear about your other car man, glad to see you are well on your way with this one. I'm sure you have the craziest story of how you named your car! Glad you got a new shirt too.

keeping with the SG theme...
 

...this car will definitely give a new definition to Louder than Love!

Loud Love, definitely one of my faves :beavis:

Right on Tim... I actually listened to that tune in my garage today. :rockin:

Speaking of noise, due to the lower ride height we are arriving at, the torque arm's inherent space killing, and my desire to keep a 3.5" exhaust volume and hopefully retain at least a good portion of my boom tube, Brett and I have talked about some interesting ideas for the exhaust. We'll get a better idea next week when we look at it together in person.

I hear you about routing exhaust...
 

I have some ideas on my car as well but it is going to be a PITA to make large diam exhaust fit, even if I consider oval tubing. I may use a mix of oval and round tubing as I like the Dynomax stuff I used on the Porsche and they have round inlets/outlets. One cannot underestimate the value of noise and hell fire when you track a car! One day a few years ago at a track in southern CO it was just me out there and a guy showed up to see what was going on at the track. He heard my car while at the grocery store a few miles away and he thought there was an event going on!

You were the brighter of the two of us with a little less set back, at about 6" from stock in the Nova I am having to really think about how to make the floor mounted pedal assembly clear the gas pedal :headscratch: It definitely cuts down on the fab work. I will figure it out but I don't want to be sitting in the car like a Cobra with my feet clear to the left, or the opposite of the 914 where legs went right to clear the wheelwell. In the stock 914, they actually mounted the seat square in the car, pedals square but offset right, then put the steering column in at an angle! It forced me to sit in the seat sideways.

It would be nice if all of you all quit highjacking this build thread!!!

DAMN DG.. i remember followng the build of that gunmetal color Camaro (can't remember which site it was on) I always wondered what happen to it . Sorry that happen

Sorry, Sir. :underchair:

?????
 

any UUUPPPDDDAAATTTEEESSS on this beast???????????:hairpullout:
:whistling:

Brett just returned from the GoodGuys Shootout this week so should be seeing some action soon. :thumbsup:

WTH is everyone involved with this deal out galavanting around the country??? :gitrdun:

Oh skippers -- change the count to MONTHS or YEARS and that clock could go into a LOT of threads…



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA




Sorry guys! I just have to take the shots given to me!

In the words of clill.... you guys suck.

That's what happens when you leave them hanging for over three weeks.

They're probably getting a little tired of watching you get your butt kicked around the forum by that FE Ford guy.

http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums...ifferent21.gif

Does it really take that long to shop for and then hang a shower curtain? Really? Who knew!?

Speaking of shots...you mean because of the 'shot' taken of you by a certain photographer that has risen to prominence lately?

:catfight:

You knew who you were dealing with when you started this thread on a ...'public forum'.



:D

Actually Sieg, I don't care how long it takes the FlashMob to build this puppy...I just like posting/hearing the '24' clock...

:popcorn2:

Loving the air box. Good find! :hello:

Withdrawal occurs because your brain works like a spring when it comes to addiction. Up dates with pictures are brain depressants that push down the spring. They suppress your brain's production of neurotransmitters like noradrenaline. When you stop getting up dates with pictures it's like taking the weight off the spring, and your brain rebounds by producing a surge of adrenaline that causes withdrawal symptoms.

Happy 2014 from Team BMF. :D

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps63d0ba20.gif

:clap: Nice, and thanks Dave
BTW, missed you on todays chat buddy.

Speak for yourself! :mock:

Yeah and whose fault is that?! :poke:

Updates from Fab53
 

After cutting and making clearance for the SB2 motor and trans in BMF, cardboard templates were made for the proposed motor mounts to the front engine plate. Also a transmission cross mount was needed and some modifications were in need for the existing Torque Arm mount for both of these cross braces to tuck under the frame line. The biggest issue is that BMF runs 3.5 inch exhaust pipes after the headers and I did not want these to hang below the frame line either. I will be making a custom section of exhaust tubing which will be a half oval that is 2" tall and 5" wide to fit under the new cross brace cut outs. Also the cross braces were raised into the floor to help make the necessary clearance and still keep the spanning strength by not trimming the cross braces so thin that they would flex.

The design that was used actually attaches both the trans mount and the torque arm mount together to help "Beef-up" this area of the car. An 800hp motor and the lifting effect of the torque arm from sticky 335 slicks was a concern, and I wanted to make sure the core was reliable, strong, and easy to access for servicing.

So, follow along as I share Dave's 68 Camaro progress.... We have a race deadline you know. :)


I knew I would be doing some changes to the interior to add the Oil sump tank, fire system, pedals, and sheet metal work... The interior was removed.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9a6856d3.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7b697fde.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ea60daa.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7b50f824.jpg

BMF has a pretty nice roll gage already installed in the car. However, I will be adding a front dash bar and connecting the exiting gage to the new engine bay down bars. Also I will be adding some down bars from the rear gage area to the top of the rear coil-over mounts to tie the complete system together. Safety first.

But before this is addressed, I will start with the cross braces under the car.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psc5950c7e.jpg

A design was settled on and transferred to a section of 2" x 4" .120 wall square stock.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps069ec927.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psfb08e0e9.jpg

And the cutting and fitting begins. There are several stages to this part and this is the first step just to get it up in position for additional measurements and marking for the next stage.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80d2f79c.jpg

Test fitment #1, pushed up level with frame and then loaded the transmission weight on the rubber mount and marked it up for the rubber mount bracket.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03508dc4.jpg

Notice the position of the original Torque Arm. It has even been moved up to touch the floor (after the body mounts were removed. Gained .75" of clearance). However, the mounting tabs still hung down and they were not an easy removal process when the mount needed to be removed for transmission service. Also notice the old exhaust cut out section on the torque arm mount. The torque arm mount will be moved and modified to match the new transmission brace.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17e4ce1a.jpg

Some parts were made based on the prior mock up, and then the cross brace was mocked up again and the parts were tacked into position with a load on the rubber trans mount.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9098924.jpg

This stage is ready for welding. It needs to be strong enough for me to load the weight back on it for the next stage of making the side frame mounts.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps528f059c.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09197a1d.jpg

Another stage to this trans mount, making parts for the cross brace to mount to the side frame rails. I didn't have a lot of room to do the traditional slide into place frame mount and I wanted this trans brace to just drop out for servicing. It's mounting strength will be combined with the torque arm brace in another stage of fabrication.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51b26262.jpg

Nothing fancy here, just a small tack inside to hold the spacers in the cross brace so that the 1/2" mounting bolts will not pinch the cross brace and weaken it. The ends will be closed up in another fabrication stage later.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps81f046c3.jpg

Once everything was positioned and shimmed into place, I doubled checked the alignment.... because I was getting ready to weld this baby in for good.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f4c2a7f.jpg

For you MIG lovers, welding out of position upside down. (TIP: reduce wire speed 25% and increase heat to the next level above the metal that is being welded. On the up-right start at top and go down and pause every 2 beads just enough time to let the red fade before starting next 2 beads down. On the over head, use a skip back pattern after burning in each bead. On the over head you will need to speed up and keep an eye on the melted pool so it does not get to big and sag or drip). This shot of the weld shows it after it was just been wiped down, I used an Anti-Spatter spray prior to welding. As a side note, Dave and I made a game plan to try and meet a race deadline... and one of the areas to save time was to use the MIG process as much as possible. It can be 3 to 5 times faster to MIG over TIG for some welding projects.

It might be an A Team... but when you bring me on board it becomes more like the B- Team.

:sieg:

:D

Lookin good.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Still sounds like you may be operating at over 50% of a normal man. :thumbsup:


:ohsnap:


:D

^^I concur sir. Very good!

Now that the transmission mount was mocked up and secured with the frame mounts, I could start to focus on the torque arm mount modifications.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9aa0f3ac.jpg

The original mounting location of the torque arm utilized an attachment point on the front frame clip around the rear body bolt just under the front seat area. The torque are pivot point in the mount is further behind this location and the original mount had to cantilever 6" back away from the strong part of the mount. This is similar for other torque arm mounts that I've seen and I'm going to guess that this is the best production mounting location. This location is probably chosen because not everyone will have the addition of frame connectors to move the mount backward closer toward the pivot point. However, we are in luck... Dave already has frame connectors welded in and I decided to use them to clean up this mounting space.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psc88d8ff5.jpg

There are a few reasons the torque arm modifications became important for this set-up. One, originally the sub-frame mounted lower because of the body disc spacers. Those were removed to gain more ground and motor clearance. And that left an awkward mounting location and spacing against the body. Two, the torque arm mount had a plate style mount to the sub-frame that required 4 1/4" bolts to be tightened from inside the frame. I was planning to cover those access holes up after the frame was welded back together.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2a031dc.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ed6806f.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psf36798bc.jpg

The above is the original configuration. I needed more ground clearance and large exhaust cut-outs in the cross braces for Dave's set-up. And with the new transmission brace, I had planned on joining the 2 braces together... which allowed me more freedom to move the torque arm brace backward more and closer to the torque arm pivot point. By removing the cantilevered leverage and the ability to connect the 2 braces netted a much stronger and versatile core that each piece could be removed independently.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps76175041.jpg

I figured that I would just flip the torque arm mount 180 degrees and that way the extra pipe stub-out could be used as a connecting location to the front trans mount. Also it would give me more room to use a similar style mount and have more room between the 2 cross braces.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps05fad32b.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps956fe9e7.jpg

The above shot.... Just planning ahead for the big 3.5" pipes that will run under

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc90269a.jpg

I forgot about this picture and don't have any others to show the removal of the old cut-out scallops and the cutting of the newer wider and deeper one.

I used a special metal melting formula to remove the old exhaust scallops.

:welder: