Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab (Post 452147)

better than fits right in...ok that was wrong.

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 452273)

Ohm your power cables and the ground cables. Also ohm the connection points. By that I mean measure the at the cable clamp and the post or measure the cable and the frame on the ground side. You want it to be less than 1 ohm. Otherwise, the connection isn't as good at it could be.

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 452189)

I saw that typo before I'd refreshed that page and saw the inevitable responses and immediately wanted to hide in a closet. :faint:

Off to acquired some fish-eye eliminator (hopefully it works) and get the dash back together.

Then trouble shoot the source of an apparent discharge condition the car has while driving. Situation is I'll drive the car 5-10 miles, restart once is OK, second time it starts but you can notice it's weak, third or fourth time the stater won't engage. Starter is a new Powermaster mini.

Battery is showing 12.6-7 volts so all the cells appear to be good.

I typically keep it on a float charger so right after disconnecting and testing I'll get a battery reading of 13.1-13.2v.

Cranking voltage on the new Autometer voltage gauge shows 11v.

Idling voltage 14.8-15v Alternator is new Powermaster 100 amp rated at 14.8v.

Idle with lights and heater on 14.2v on the gauge.

Since I didn't install the harnesses I'm going to check all the front harness grounds first and install grounding washers if needed.

Battery is a Kirkland about a year old with little usage.

:question:

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 452273)

Amps make the starter turn over not volts. Volts can be a good indication but not a certainty. So if everything checks out, take the battery into a parts store. I believe most have a tester that can put a load on the battery. If not, grab the battery out of the wife's minivan and use it. If the car stops having problems, you found the culprit most likely.

With that said, use the multimeter at the alternator and the battery itself. No sense in trusting a gauge when you can measure with amultimeter right at the source. Don't measure at cable ground points. Instead, measure at bare metal spots that should also be grounded. That way you check the ground circuit as well as the output of the alternator.

Check your battery cables.

Ohm your power cables and the ground cables. Also ohm the connection points. By that I mean measure the at the cable clamp and the post or measure the cable and the frame on the ground side. You want it to be less than 1 ohm. Otherwise, the connection isn't as good at it could be.

Originally Posted by intocarss (Post 452293)

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 452296)

Before you spend hours and hours --- swap in a different battery and see if there's any improvement. If it improves you've found your problem - if not - now you can spend hours and hours...

My guess is a bad battery ---- and or a starter that is getting heat soaked -- but it wouldn't be heat soak if you can't start it 3 or 4 times COLD... right in a row. ANY good battery should be able to start a car several times without fail.

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 452312)

Thanks Trey :thumbsup:


Sure that isn't an image of me in the garage going hmm, hmm, hmm? :D

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 452361)

..... and surely you used self etching primer for that bare metal....

:cheers: :thumbsup:

Next stop -- SEMA!