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68firebird 09-02-2012 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve68 (Post 433892)
Nice clean and white!! looks good, have you been out driving around??

is it starting to cool down up there yet?? I was born in CT, love the change of seasons, not like what we have here!!!

I haven't been driving it yet steve, she goes in this week for an alignment and other assorted tweaks. hopefully I can get it to a few cruise nights before they all shut down. Its still in the mid 70's to mid 80's around here, humidity has been high so it feels hotter than it actually is. My wife and I have been tossing the idea of moving down south, maybe more towards the myrtle beach, SC area, but we have a bunch of family who have retreated down to florida. Taxes are just killing us up here!!! Once I register the bird I'm gonna have to pay propety tax on it every year!!!!! rediculous on a car this old.

Steve68 09-02-2012 10:41 AM

Why property tax???

we pay taxes on a car when we register it, again, and then a registration fee every year,

and our state was in a deficit in the tune of 7.2 million or billion, can't remember which, because the amount of people leaving the state to find jobs else where, so they raise the rate of everything state, liscense's, tags, anything you can think of, by almost 50%, it sucks,

68firebird 09-06-2012 05:49 AM

Ok, she's at my mechanic today, hopefully I goes well! She drove pretty good down there at least hahaha. Also having them install my global west subframe connectors.

Question, I have a Chevy small block in it, stock heads and internals, performer intake and performer 600 CFM carb. I was given a brand new performer rpm intake to use, but the lowes CFM recommendation for it is 750. Will it be counter productive to swap the rpm intake on with the 600 CFM carb? Or will this work and there will just be a bit of power loss?

Steve68 09-06-2012 05:38 PM

leave the performer, the RPM, would work better for a cam change,

68firebird 09-07-2012 07:00 PM

Got her home, rides much better now. the clunking sound ended up being the inside wheel weight hitting the tie rod, harder when the wheels were cut of course, the rims are extremely close to the tie rod, so the rims will have to get replaced soon. they were temporary anyways, but might be forced to get some earlier.

68firebird 09-08-2012 02:17 PM

Ok, took the car for a nice ride around the neighborhood today, rides pretty darn good. but the smell, its god awful. I started to think that it may not be running rich, it might be burning oil. so I pulled all the plugs this afternoon and ALL of them were oil fouled, oil all the way up the threads on most. Is it possible that the rings are bad on every piston? or could it be leaking in from the cylinder head? how would I check?

Steve68 09-09-2012 07:40 AM

compression test and a leak down test,

Let it sits over night, then start it, does it pour out smoke when you start it?? that would be valve seals or guides,

Smoking all the time while running could be severly worn guides or rings,

now its time to delvulge a little info on the motor, age wear, was it beat on, ever rebuilt, by who,

time to look into it!!

68firebird 09-10-2012 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve68 (Post 434937)
compression test and a leak down test,

Let it sits over night, then start it, does it pour out smoke when you start it?? that would be valve seals or guides,

Smoking all the time while running could be severly worn guides or rings,

now its time to delvulge a little info on the motor, age wear, was it beat on, ever rebuilt, by who,

time to look into it!!

thanks steve. I'm actually unaware of the year of the motor, it was in the car when I bought it and I've never removed it. I believe it to be an early 80's 305 or 350 out of an IROC. At least that's what I was told it was 11 years ago. It actually doesn't really pour out smoke at all, it just quickly comes out in short bursts out the tailpipes, doesn't look like I'm trying to keep the mosquitoes at bay, LOL. Talked to my mechanic today and he suggested to actually get some mileage on it over the next week or two and see if the seals and all start to swell up on their own, he figures this since it sat for so long without being started. I'll do an oil change and go this route and see what happens.

68firebird 09-12-2012 04:22 AM

I'm not gonna be able to afford the lowering leaf springs for the rear at the moment, so I've decided to use lowering blocks until I can afford it, are there any brand of blocks out there that anyone can recommend? I know they aren't a recommended lowering option, but it will be temporary until I can get the $450 up for the hotchkis leafs. thanks

Oh, and also is there a set of headers that fit a small block chevy that tuck up closer to the floor of F-bodies? the drivers side header collector flange hangs low and is about an inch and a half off the ground now and the rear isn't lowered yet, I've already scrapped the flange during a ride.

68firebird 09-12-2012 04:27 AM

Here's a comparison of the stance when it went into hibernation and when it finally came out.

Before:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q.../694838453.jpg

After:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...2C4DD9F912.jpg


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