I wouldn't bother with that kit either.

You can mount the tank pretty much anywhere within reason. Usually they go behind the passenger side wheel well. You would just have to get creative on the mount for the oil pump, not sure what else to say. Some custom brackets would be in order id guess. Also the pulley for the belt. After thinking about it a little more, Im not sure that an external pump would be able to stand up to the tension of a serp belt. The belt is usually quite loose so Id bet the bearings/bushings mite fail under the strain

Im thinking about using a dry sump as well because I want space to run 180 degree headers. Id also make a crank scraper while I was doing the pan.

This is getting closer to becoming a real possibility. The only issue is figuring out how to mount the pump. Definitely custom brackets. I need to get back and look at my engine again to see where I can bolt up to. For the "kits" that are out there for the V10, most replace the A/C with the oil pump so a plate mounts to those 3 or 4 bolts, done and done. I want to keep the A/C so I need to find a way to mount it on the passenger side. The only bolt holes available on that side of the block are the motor mounts, cross bolts for the mains, then the bolts for the timing cover. Maybe something that goes up to the motor mount then wraps around to pick up a couple from the timing cover. The $5,500 kit is awesome because it locates the oil pump exactly where I want it but does it with a billet oil pan and mounts machined into the oil pan. Actually, thinking through that, I could weld mounts to the cast pan... Just got easier I think.

Oil pumps are not cheap either! Everything else is reasonable.

But you dont need more that 3 stage pump, you can get one as used nascarstuff selling firm.

In Competition Coupe Vipers pumps where mounted front center under oil pan. There is a made slot for it. Tensioner takes care the belt. Street use should use a belt shield for rock and stuff. Also oil pressure cutoff sensor.

Will, you should make/order new oil pan , you dont need original tall sump pan, just 1.5-2" enough. Then you can put pump under it. Pump is frontplate or side mounted and you can weld tads to side of your oil pan.

Off topick: I got two new big 4.2L twin screws in my shop... :):willy:

Looking forward those twin screws Juhani. Will be a sweet setup!

I've seen some used NASCAR stuff but have only seen one 3-stage pump. Most I've seen are 5 or 6. I'll keep my eye out. There is one on ebay right now that I'm watching. If that can be bought cheap, I could put this together for less than the cost of having a custom pan built. I found a company in the UK that previously built a kit for the Gen 2 Viper using the stock pan, but heavily modified. Using there design as a base for modifying my pan, should be pretty simple. Since you definitely know your way around this motor, where are guys connecting the pressure line to the engine? I'm not sure the location of the pressure supply on the Gen 3, but the pan is different than mine so I presume it is located differently. You may already be familiar with it, but in this pic I'm pointing at the supply to the engine from the stock pan. One option would be to cut the pan down and weld a fitting to inlet to connect an AN line. What have you seen or what are you doing? Thanks Juhani!

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/file-139.jpg

What you are showing is oil exit hole in oil pan going to timing cover, where oil pump is located.

In our engine oil pump is an axial oil pump inside timing cover on the front end of the crank. My engine has an oil pick up tube that is connected to timing cover and from the pump pressurized oil travels in a hose to oil cooler/heat transfer and from there w/hose from there to actual engine block on the driver side front corner below cam line. There is no straight outlet from timing cover to the block.

You got an different oil pan and you dont have old style oil pick up, oil travels in a canal in oil pan and go to oil pump in timing cover. Take a look at your oil pump and your timing cover. I guess your oil entry to the block is on passanger side just where is your oil pressure sensor just over your oil filter and cooler fittings. You could weld or tap a fitting there.

In dry sump should eliminate the use of original oil pump/ pick up an so we dont need to go in oil pan/timing cover. From oil pan to inline filter, then pump scavenge side, there to cooler then tank, from there to pump pressure side, then pressure regulator and another inline filter and in the block we go again.

Simple diagram

http://image.stockcarracing.com/f/92..._schematic.jpg

I would add an secont filter before pump to secure it and pressure regulator an pressure cutoff switch for safety.

Go check the hole article HERE

About my twin screws.. Only one is mine..

Other one is first going on old 426 Hemi.

Or I have to make it happen..

I tryed to add pic but my picture account webside does not open..

Thanks Juhani! I've been doing some research on these systems and I think I have a pretty good handle on what it is and how it works. Now I need to get more detailed on specifics related to the Viper engine, namely eliminating the stock oil pump and where I can supply the pressure to the block from the oil pump. I think you are correct, I believe there are two fittings on top of the oil filter in order to put an oil cooler in the system. I can probably use that for the supply. I need to pick up a service manual for my engine...

Even though I'm not actually the one doing it, progress is progress... A few weeks ago I received what might be the first set of Digi-Tails for the '69 Dart. Pretty pumped about these and am looking forward to getting back and playing with them a bit.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/file-145.jpg

Also got the first pic today of my custom stainless steel fuel tank. Big thanks to Tincup and edakota (PT.com) for the work on this. Tin took my initial drawings and dimensions and between he and edakota, made it into a useable design. I ordered a fuel module from Vaporworx to run in it, has a built in sump, regulator and fuel level sender. Should work out perfect in my build. Can't wait to see this thing done. After it's finished, it will find it's way for coating in Tennessee before heading up to Grand Rapids. Something else I'm real excited to get playing with. Tin and edakota have been awesome to work with!
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/file-146.jpg

If you're in the market, I highly recommend these guys.

Couple updated pics from Eric on my tank. Still needs the mounting brackets before being sent to Leanna for a paint job... Big thanks to Mike and Eric for this. I'm looking forward to getting back and hanging this.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...s77/tank-2.jpg

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/fueltank.jpg

And the tank is finished, more or less. Still need to add a fitting for the vent tube, but that is on it's way from The GMR. Then off to powder coat. So close to done...

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/file-147.jpg

Bad ass
 

The whole build is amazing, but that hood is out of this world....I am stoked to see this car built.....very nice work.