In the final episode of our three part mini series - "As the Pulley Turns"

I did a little detail work on the sides while it was still in the lathe.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps689fa0e7.jpg

Then setup the rotary table in the mill.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4cdadfe4.jpg

And setup the pulley on the rotary table.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc59acd83.jpg

Then just cut away everything that isn't a pulley.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8ebd6349.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps64faf3cb.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps865fc55b.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc94ee60e.jpg

Do a little deburring and hit it with some scotchbrite this is what's left.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps240ef9f5.jpg

On the motor. I have to put an idler pulley up around that left button head bolt, that's for tomorrow.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps2cb1074a.jpg

Mike, it's a work of art, for sure! I'm not sure I've ever seen a keyed crank pulley made from aluminum, though. All I've ever bought or used were steel, but I'm probably wrong. Either way, great job!

Nice job ! It came out sweet!

I had to add an idler to the mix to get it all to work. The power steering and alternator bracket is a purchased part and I decided to just modify it. It's already overly complicated and too many parts, but I added more pieces to it.

I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psac85521b.jpg

That holds the pulley just fine.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps94c9b416.jpg

Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdb399dd8.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps40256b42.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psef184c18.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0eb0c1f5.jpg

All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits. If you are wondering how the belt is tensioned, the power steering pump has a jack screw underneath it to move it up to tension the belt.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse6687a24.jpg

Boom, nailed it. I used to purchase pin drive set ups from CV, for my late models. That's a nice job!

Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.

The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.

From back to front.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps605b8b01.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps25e18a32.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1e557799.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8b75062d.jpg
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1d6697dd.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps036d4c2f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc3208900.jpg

It was so nice outside today I opened up the garage door and had too find something to do.

I used to have two 1/2 npt tapped holes with -10 fitting threaded into the front plate. That meant I had to RTV the plate to the belt drive. Last time I put it back together it leaked. The belt drive has -10 o-ring threads in it, but because of the front plate, I can't use a normal fitting. So, I made my own. I cut bigger holes in the front plate to pass the new fittings through.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3b514eed.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf6678d6a.jpg

That is the last custom machined part. If it's not too expensive, I'm going to gather up all the machined parts and have them hard anodized black.

Amazing job.

great job mike!

Not a lot of progress lately. I sent 90% of my machined parts off to be anodized. I can't do a lot until most of that stuff gets back.



I did re-do my water pump feed. I had a rubber hose on it that I found at the auto parts store that was close, but not perfect. I never did like it. So, I made a perfect fitting one from stainless tube and some silicone clamps.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7eed5f8c.jpg



My old header crossover hit the new bellhousing, so I remade it. I used a burns double slip this time instead of a bellows. I like the fit, just hope it seals up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0cab6c79.jpg



I've got all the a/c parts except the lines. I'll order the parts to make them as soon as I get all the components mounted.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc6dc1bb9.jpg



I found a factory accessory bracket and bought one of the billet tensioners. Other than the fact that it looks like a wiring bomb went off, It's starting to look like a stock GN under the hood again.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc7cd45f0.jpg