Pics
 

Here is a pic of my rear. It is a Strange 9" w/DSE brackets. Everything just tacked for now until I determine my best pinion angle...

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pstdwj66fy.jpg[/IMG]

Not 100% sure what brake package I will end up running, but for now I have these C6 ZO6 Calipers & Rotors.

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psjq72hwyz.jpg[/IMG]

^ that's fugly dude. You better start over :D

:cheers:

looks good!!!

:thankyou:

Looks great!!!:thumbsup:

These set-ups LOVE Firebirds :poke:

Tried calling you earlier and left a message with my number.

thanks, Jake

Will you have to straighten the housing after welding or will it be good if you TIG a bit at a time?

Great question!

The preferred/recommended method would be to first weld on ALL suspension brackets COMPLETELY. TIG being the preferred method but certainly not required.
If patience is practiced during welding (taking time between brackets, and allowing brief cooling periods), you will see VERY little movement of the axle tubes. The minimal axle tube movement you may experience will not effect the axle centerline at all once you install the weld-on flange ends with my/your jig set-up which puts the Ends/Hubs/Axles at perfect centerline with the carrier despite where the actual axle tube is. Although the flange may be slightly "offset" on the axle tube end, that is irrelevant and will not effect anything.
Now, with that said, IF the tubes pulled one way or the other for whatever the reason (or the housing came that way before getting started), you can straighten the tubes by applying a approx. 2" weld on the side you want to "pull up". This you will find will slowly pull the axle tube in the direction you are wanting it to go (of course after you have gotten the results you wanted you will need to grind/sand the weld smooth).
In extreme cases, you may have to quench the 2" weld with water that usually yields twice the results due to the instant cooling effect that springs the metal back at the applied weld.
I have only seen a few housings that required this treatment, and still was not really needed due to the fixturing process that installs the weld-on flange at perfect axle centerline. This mainly applies to a traditional style floater install that utilizes spindle "snouts" that actually install into the axle tubes, as apposed to a big ford end or like mine that simply butt weld to the axle tube end.
Hope all this makes sense.

Jay

Jay,

I'll trade you for my flanged rear....lol

Looks killer!

Efrain