John, I can take care of that for you. :thumbsup:

Please do not argue the dangerous part, as you don't have a leg to stand on. You're doing it on public roads, therefore you are dangerous and wreckless, end of story.

Flooring it on an on-ramp with no traffic? Absolutely, do it often. Up to 150 mph? Absolutely never, have to be an idiot to think this is normal behavior and not dangerous.

Oh, by the way, you say you're going to start doing roadracing and this won't be on the street. That's perfect, but there's not a track out there that will let you try this without a roll cage and all the safety equipment, so be prepared and add it into your budget. I do not know how you can run 10's without one either, but for one pass until they kick you off the track I can see it.

One last item, ZR rated tires are not made to go 200 mph on a high speed sustained run.

Good info for you coming now, so hopefully you read it and get the point. The safety equipment shows up in every post, so do not ignore it.

Jody

You have yet to say anything about racing other then your blasts down the freeway, and how you can achieve higher speeds. Jody said the same thing, you didn't correct him. Going though the gears on a 400hp car or less is quite a bit different then going though the gears on a car as fast as yours is. You obviously don't have the responsibility to use your car correctly. It's not built for this kind of speed. Do you know most rims on the road today are not designed for this speed? Bonneville cars, all have steel wheels and are rated for the speeds they try to acheive. Your tires, might be rated for it, but dont count on it, not for a sustained run. You have no cage of any kind?? Yeah real smart and real safe. Any asshole can stick in a 1000hp motor and say I want to go 200mph, but you completely fail to understand what it takes. Let alone dragging down the street in a car like yours. And no, I never went down the street full blast with a 1000hp car going though the gears. There is a place and time for everything, but you have no idea what time that is. That alone makes you irresponsible and wreckless, and combine this with stupidity and you have a lethal combination. What part of this do you fail to understand? What part of this is not wreckless?

Z-Rated tires are not even close - 146 MPH I believe. Z is "above" 146, but you dpon't know how much, so that means only 146 MPH.

Highest rating is Y - which is above 186, but they will never tell you how much above 186, so you can only assume 186 out of them.

Speed rating tests are a bit scary as well. If I remember correctly, they run the tires for 30 seconds at a time in 5 MPH increments (or actually KPH which is why we have 186 etc) and if it lives there it is rated for the speed.

Last time we were starting to rebuild I had gotten five different tires to have tested at 220 MPH and they were to be run for three hours or failure (whichever first), with temp reading data logged. Also some other tests were to be done. We hoped to see temp spikes before failure or identify characteristics to see precursors to failure. I purchased infra red temp sensors to mount on the car in each wheel well with on dash displays so for the specific tires we found to be best, we would have some warning before it failed - readouts are programmeable to indicate green, yellow and red conditions. There are very few tire monitoring systems that update quickly enough to be useful and they start at about $20K.

If you are serious about doing this - safely - this should give you an idea of the lengths we go to. I would also recommend running nitrogen.

Re: your driveshaft you need to calculate the RPM given your trans, tire size and rear gear ratio at the target speeds. Also, I would seriously consider at least an aluminum shaft as rotational mass can be an issue with the RPM's - unless you can go and get a NASCAR quality steel shaft.

One thing to keep in mind that many have learned the hard way - it's no small task to have a car that fast that is not single purpose built. Can be done, but many have failed trying.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

What gear were you in at top speed?

Scott,
Check your email

Three videos in separate emails

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

Car would run in 5th.

Was set up to shift into 6th at redline running at 215 MPH.

Started making next round of changes to do just that, but never made it back out there again.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

A few thoughts for you. Having actually done this, learned from people I respected that had been at it longer than me and also seen some people die or get badly hurt, at an absolute minimum you need:

1. A cage - at least 6-point welded in
2. A REAL Racing seat - I've seen stock ones collapse
3. Seat mounted to the cage
4. 5 or 6 point harnesses properly mounted
5. Helmet and full driving suit
6. Fire system
7. Fuel cell - a real one w/ a kevlar bladder
8. Battery box (I've seen these get tossed 50 yards or so from crashes)
9. Window nets or arm restraints
10. Engine restraint
11. Was just starting when I was racing but wouldn't do it w/o now is a HANS or similar device.

Window nets or arm restraints are very important because in a crash you are a rag doll and unless there is a net or restraints your arms can end up outside the window when it is flipping/rolling. I preferred nets, because they have the added benefit of keeping debris OUT of the passenger compartment.

If you REALLY want to do this you need to:

1. Get the car safe
2. Get the car to handle
3. Start working on aero - you will never go straight to 200 MPH safely take steps
4. Get an engine package and driveline that will survive
5. Get some seat time at lower speeds

Number 4 takes much more than you will ever think
No way I'd be trying a gear vendors unit for this
With your turbo setup your biggest challenge will be heat soak running at WOT for extended periods

re: #5 going from 185 to upper 190's and above was a learning experience and took me a while to be totally relaxed at those speeds.

Re: quick ratio steering - it's almost irrelevant as you hardly turn the wheel at all taking a turn at those speeds. In theory it might be beneficial not to run a quick ratio box, but there are much more important areas to spend your money on. Also, if your plan is to go that fast, you can ultimately save money by building it for that the first time and swap less parts later.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

good reading
 

:cheering:

Why would a Gear vendors not work??

Also, I do run a Dennys aluminum MMC shaft that is rated for this. I believe he said critical speed is 8100 with the lenght I am at and almost 9000 or so with a shorter length if I go Gearvendors instead of a 4l80. My concern with a 4l80 is the 4th gear being able to handle full power after I make the shift into 4th. I can limit power going into 4th, but then I want to be able to go back to full power.

Comp TA ZR tires were rated to 187+ I thought??

I will fabbing up a 6 point roll bar when I get time, Boy I sure wish this motor did'nt make so much power, life would be so much easier! I do have to say though, you would never guess you were doing 150 in the car, it gets theres SO fast and smooth and then WHAM your bouncing of the rev limiter! I really kind of miss the excitment of going through the gears at a normal rate that allows you to anticipate going faster. Now it is just floor it and, bam, your there, it takes a little fun out of it, you know.

Starting to get some awesome input!!