A lot of nice work going on here. Nice job fitting the quarter for welding.

that plus allow me to cleco the panel during fitment, plus help eliminate blow through with the welder. It's been my experience that sheet metal butt joints need 1/16" to 1/8" gap between them to stitch weld without excessive warping. The only way I have ever been able to meet that requirement is with a flange and lots of cleco pins.

Thanks Wayne. Appreciate it. It feels pretty good to have it attached to the car permanently. I can't even begin to estimate the hours I have into fitting those quarter skins but I know its a lot!

Gotcha.

PS Quarter Skin is on the car
 

I got the PS quarter skin on the car over the holiday weekend. That is a milestone for me.

I hate bodywork but in order to keep costs reasonable I am going to have to do it. You make it look easy with just one picture.

Front Subframe - Part 1
 

I did this work back in November of 2019 but have not posted it here yet. I had taken my complete, rolling front subframe out of storage to begin prepping it for paint. In the process I discovered some significant rust on the engine cradle/crossmember that required repair.

This was a little more difficult that it appears in the pictures because I had to perform this work in sections in order to keep the suspension geometry as close to original as possible. This repair involved the structure that supports the lower control arm mounting pockets. For most of this work, I left the OEM control arms installed to help with stability. I used three, 3/16" steel ribs, shaped to the existing cradle. Two of them were welded directly to the control arm pockets. The steel I used to cover the bottom of the cradle was also 3/16" thick. As I said, I did it in sections to help keep the structure dimensionally stable. This also allowed me to use T-fillet welds between the cover pieces and the ribs, allowing full weld coverage of the joints. The center rib was welded in place first to allow two additional brace plates that would connect internally to the front rib.

Front Subframe - Part 2
 

I basically replaced the lower section in 2 steps. The front and then the rear. After I completed the cradle section, I went to work grinding out the porous factory weld sections around the spring buckets and re-welding. After that, I stitch welded the frame channels together on the top and bottom. Following that work, I sand blasted and primed the entire assembly. Then it went back into storage. Hopefully, I will be bringing it out again soon to paint and assemble.

Awesome build

What is your plan for updating the front suspension geometry to match the rear half refinements?

I really like your approach for this build. Very relatable using/tweaking what you have vs. the expensive (& usually faster) route of purchasing new/aftermarket suspension bits.