All high temp clear does is allow the paint to live at higher temps, it does not affect what temp the resin starts to soften.

Resin is dynamically stable up to the temp it is cured at. Above the ‘cure temp’ it will soften the resin and won't hold the fabric in orientation and your part will lose its shape.

Post curing is a secondary process. After the initial cure of the part - it’s placed back in a mold or fixture to be held in its correct position while being ‘post’ cured at an elevated temp – normally a temp higher than the temp it will experience ‘in-service’ when installed on the vehicle.

This effect is limited by the max temp range on the spec sheet of the chosen resin.

Check with your part manufacture and see what temp the part is cured to – or the max in-service temp threshold it will withstand. Beyond that temp you will need shielding or other protection aids.

Jim

Hanging the hood, so that it is unstressed by any of its weight, and "baking" it at 200 degrees for several hours is supposed to help keep the carbon fiber ripples to a minimum. This is what Tyler told me while he was at Anvil. throwing it out in the sun, and running it on a car before painting seems to help too. BOS has painted at least four Anvil hoods, and the two that suffered the most distortion were mine and james' hood for the OLC, both of which were painted right out of the box, so to speak. Deanna's 2nd gen has held up better (I think) and Jon drove that car with the hood unpainted for a year. Last but not least is the hood on Gregg's car, which Steve ran on Penny for Optima one year. That hood has a little visible CF weave showing but nothing terribly noticeable unless you get up close.

No idea what a turbo motor would do to an Anvil hood. Maybe ask Larry Callahan. I believe he ended up putting heat shield boots on the turbos.

Ill call Anvil tomorrow and find out the temp they cure their parts at. Thanks for the info guys.

on my other car i drove it around for about a month in the tx sun heating it up pretty good along with the turbo. After that i went and painted the hood. I drove it around for a year and it never changed after painting it.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...r/DSCF1091.jpg


this shows you where my turbo is.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/2573t6o.jpg

John,

Heat shield on turbos and hood should help with temps. Obvioulsy placement of the turbos will make a big difference. On Max's Mustang, the only issue he had is the heat temporarily deforming his hood, so makes it hard to close if hot until it cools down.

Gui

ceramic powder coat on the headers will help keep the heat down.

If I decided to sell my car what would a realistic value be when it is done? NA not turboed.

why? what happened?

X2 john what happened? How far from driveable is it now?

Gui

I am unable to get a home loan due to a short sale. I really want to buy a house and the only way I can buy one is with cash so I have to sell assets to get cash.

It is about 1 month away from being driven.

If the build is nice and clean and the car drives I'd say in the 60k-75k range max.

I'd sell off all the turbo stuff and the OZ intake and finish the car economically.

depends how much you need but sell the intake, engine, and some other things to get the money you need and keep the car. That is unless you just dont want the car

John realistically this is a ****ty time to sell a project, specially a non running setup. I would try to get the car either as a runner or at least body and paint done.

What about getting a loan against the car?

Gui

The last thing I would spend cash on is a house right now with this interest rate environment.

See Greg Weld's thread for more details.

Body and paint are done. It is almost assembled and running. Car would be sold as a completed turn key car.

Houses in my neighborhood are going up by the day. A year ago you could get a 3 bdr/2bth home in Castro Valley for 350K. Now they are 450-500K and climbing. The Bay Area housing market (especially in Castro Valley) is rebounding quite quickly. The cheaper homes go up in value and the higher end ones go down Im noticing.

20% down conventional financing is available 2 years after a short sale and FHA 3 years. What about private funding until you can refi into better product?

Would you know anyone who does private loans? I have 50% down. Homes are averaging 450K around here for a decent 3/2

As Todd said, 2 yrs for 20% conv. And 3 yrs for FHA 3.5%.

How recent was your short sale? And any family that can sign?

Or know any hard money lenders? Their rates are a little higher.

P.S. never put so much cash down on your house, unless your made of it. You need the interest right off. Liquid assests

The interest I pay does not equal the amount saved on my tax bills. Especially now that the rates are really low.

John, I agree, am noticing the same here as far as housing market (in my neighborhood prices started going up in June and no signs of going down). My buddy was in the same boat, ready to buy a house in Dublin or Pleasanton, and was hoping for prices to go down, and now he is out of the market until things readjust and price drops.

You have already vested so much time and funds (plus stress) on your build and it is coming out great, so sucks to hear about her going.... My suggestion would be to put a feeler post on the for sale area on the maro, and see what kind of offers you get, or be open to a runner plus cash. As mentioned really not the bets time to sell a project as not a lot of people buy rides on the winter and they want to have more liquid disposable funds for other stuff (holidays, holiday bills, property taxes and taxes).

Did you already find a place you are interested in buying?

John, I feel your pain... I got lucky and bought here in Five canyons right at the bottom.. My Brother and sister in law are trying to buy her in the hills or CV and have the same issue, they short sold there place.. and are putting a 150k down.. and still lenders are leary.. I agree with home prices though, They are going through the roof.. good luck..

Kevin

You guys need to move to Texas where 5,000 sq. ft. houses are $300k.

We can get those in Oakland. Just gotta dodge all the bullets:lol:

Even here in Sacramento the market is starting to jump a bit. My girlfriend just bought her first house, we're moving in on Friday and renting out mine. She put in about six offers over asking and kept getting outbid by at least 10k or by someone with cash. The investors with huge money are making it really difficult for the regular people. Plus, the amount of financial records she had to supply was three times what I had to supply when I bought three years ago even though she has a significantly higher income.

Don't sell the car; you will regret it.

I agree 1 million percent. Thought about selling me C10 and I know I'll be sick if I do.

Updates are here!

Well after screwing around with the Ozmo manifold the guys at WCAC finally got it to fit. They made a new valley pan to relocate the sensor and front air tube (fuel rails hit both of them). So anyone considering buying one of these take note..... Wont fit your LS3 unless you get a new valley pan CNC'd.

http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...409B322900.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...4084A21EBC.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...72B1A81013.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...72BDCA8C38.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...72CE67F5A8.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...72D64F0281.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...72E649C078.jpg

honestly whats holding the car back from being completed soon?

One of the things that i had to stop and rethink is do i need a bad ass intake, carbon fiber inner fenders, and all those expensive things that i could have upgraded in the future. Those little things end up putting you back a few weeks from completion. Plus i like the fact that i want to get my car running and upgrade as I go.

Looks good on there.

Im having it done the exact way I want it. If it takes longer to fab stuff up to get it to fit then Im OK with that.

Great to see you are past that hurdle. We are finally making good progress... The end is near. Yeee haaaa

'zactly...:thumbsup:

:cheering:

I agree and no rush. heck teh longer it takes to get the car done the more it becomes a classic so that is one way to think about it hehe :)

Thus the reason I have major ADD on my projects and need to get into at least two projects at a time, one that I can get running and enjoying to get my "fix" (no pun intended on the fix part), and the second to be doen as I want it.

Project scope change is a bitch, but as much time as a project takes, as long as you have a set goal and stick to it at the end and you wil be happy with getting what you want at the end.:cheers:

I think there is 5 miles of wiring in this car. Yikes! Almost done wiring it up.

http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...C1CEC49A64.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/c...C1E88F5645.jpg

I just went through the entire thread and this car is way cool. I love that you made the intake work.

Are you still planning on running the twin turbo set up?

For now Im going to leave it NA and see how it runs with the 231/236 cam in it and 2 throttle bodies.

I think that is a great idea.

With the intake you have you could do two air boxes and have the illusion of tt set up.

After building syborg and doing twin turbo I will most likely do blowers from this point forward. Much easier plumbing, less under hood heat and much more cost effective.

Time to order my front RS grille kit. What would look better with no front bumper? A billet one or the original one?