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Are Allan and Andy Acronym having fun yet?
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LS's are for street driven gas savers :unibrow: I like driving with something in it I could beat on like a red headed step child :lol: |
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sh*t bit the bullet call nelson
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he'd be biting more than a bullet if he called Nelson. LOL
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Nothing personal. :lol: |
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On the other hand, it surprised me how good some of the previous gen F-bodies sound with a GMMG catback. No motor mods just exhaust. |
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:cheers: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers: |
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Guess that hit a few nerves! Hell I thought it was funny. Go with someone local. It's nice to be close if and when something comes up.
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I copied this link from an e-mail Jerdog sent to me that I thought was pretty interesting. Also, upon more research i have found that many engine builders have been complaining about how loose the chains have been fitting lately as opposed to years ago. I remember when I was putting timing chains on back in the day they were always very tight. Apparently that hasn't been the case as of late.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...nd_how_to.aspx |
This is a pic of the Hy-Vo chain used in the NASCAR engines that are not running belt drives. I am currently trying to see if they make one for Chevy applications.http://image.circletrack.com/f/26295...hain_setup.jpg
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Good stuff. I am waiting to see what you decide to use. :unibrow: I'm gonna ask Watson Racing what they recommend and use next time I'm there too.
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That is something I was talking about with a local engine builder. I have been thinking of using a high end gear drive and he said a good roller "comp" or belt drive "jesel" I just don't feel like I can trust a chain with all differences in stretch and balance. Still undecided I like the high end gear drive units.
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Another option would be this belt drive system. I like the xceldyne because you can get it with a dust cover.
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5076159-xcel...oved-rail.html |
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Man, are we gonna end up with belt drives? :willy:
Found this quick and to the point article. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ng_Chains.aspx |
I was thinking Summers Brothers
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Gear Drives,,,
N/A engine - you dont want them in a N/A car because they transfer too many harmonics to the valve train, basically too sturdy and can cause issues Blown engine - gear drive is good to use here due to the force they see. the thing that will allow a blown engine to work good with these are the have a large blower belt coming off the crankshaft so this makes a gear drive perfect here Timing Chains,,, N/A engine - good for use on any N/A or NOS engine with normal spring pressure for roller cams (600-650max open IMO) or any flat tappet engine. Drag race or circle track RPM means little to nothing with timing chains until spring pressure goes up. Racers running camshafts that are very aggressive (not something a bracket racer/street guy would run, more like a Super Stock or Comp camshaft) that need say 800 pounds open and are pushing the valve train to the limit will be trying to retard the camshaft the way it wears the camshaft gear teeth so this is when a belt drive comes in to play here If your not running that sort of aggressive lobe/rocker combo with high spring pressure it really doesnt make a huge difference which one you go with, more so which one you can afford. You can set thrust easier and degree the cam easier with the belt drive. If you use a timing chain you need to use the SA Gear Billet with the 2 piece adjustable cam gear (like a belt drive) or the Cloyes 9 key way set or the Cloyes unit with the adjustable cam gear. I would not use a timing chain that is not billet, they seem to allow the chain to fit better SA Gear the chain fits tighter and stays tighter which are many Comp, Lunati and Erson timing sets. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK here is my experiance with all three over the years i have used and seen all three devices i have put gear drives in engines that were used in dirt track , street and drag and have never had a failure as of yet , i know it happens but it has not happened as of yet with the stuff i have seen i think they work well , if these things can live 5 seasons in a late model dirt car then i assure you they will last in a drag race application timing chains- have used over the years with equal good luck , but have seen them stretch with very little use in high rpm motors, but yes they have come a long way in the last few years and if you are on a budget then they are the way to go belt drives - i use a jesel on my stuff as i like the fact i can degree in the cam easier and can adjust for ****y track conditions if i need to and i do believe that they help with harmonics when you start getting into the higher RPM range and the timing seems more stable but let me add this---why would you put a 70 dollar timing chain on a 10-25 thousand dollar engine just does not seem right but i guess that is just me ,kind of like using a 29 dollar oil pump on a motor you pay big dollars for--will it work, yes but i just can not see the point in doing it but to each their own |
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$1070 at Summit |
I also read that SA makes PBM.
I'm swaying toward belt drive right now but i'll need to do more research. Accesability and adjustability make the belt drive desirable. If the belt drives can handle high cylinder pressures and 14:1 compression it may be the better choice. The Summers Brothers option is pretty interestng also. |
The only thing I dont like about the Comp belt drive is they dont have a dust cover option.
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guys guys guys, chains are fine, the end of the world is not coming....well if it is i'll see you in hell. LOL
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.A belt drive will be more precise with timing and take out end play in the cam and hermonics in the valve train. It is also nice to be able to change cam timing without pulling the timing cover. I do agree with Vince..A good timing chain set will be more then enough for your application G On a side note I read that the PBM alum block is made in New Zealand |
I think the cam thrusting forward at higher rpms contributed to the chain failure. If checking the chain for wear is going on the maintenance list wouldn't it be smarter to go belt drive?
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IMOHO I'd stay clear of a gear drive |
This with a Hex-adjust True Roller set up and you should be good.
http://www.cloyes.com/Portals/10/Ima...ton_Large2.jpg Don't forget Jesel |
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Danny Bee belt drives are pretty slick also. The ease of adjustability is pretty sweet. You can even have a slightly different timing spec for specific tracks if you want. I'm not sure on the SBC but on the FE Danny Bee set up the belt is in plain view and can be checked periodically. None of them are less than $1k so it is a big leap from a quality chain in price for sure.:rolleyes:
I've looked into them just haven't justified the cost yet. Yet:D |
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I figured it was a no brainer. :unibrow: |
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