So I looked at my header clearance and I have 1.25" between the header and the floor. From the stand mounting surface on the frame to the face of the adapter plate there is 3.5".

I think you'd be ok on the gap to the floor with the 1/2 height body mounts and if the clamshell setup is about the same 3.5" the SW's should work.....maybe lol

I bought the headers on sale at Colorado Speed. Looks like they are $867 right now.

They hang a little lower than I thought they would but they don't hang lower than the QuickTime bell or the gforce crossmember. So I guess I'm good with that....

Steve, couple things pop into my head with your setup. First, what drive shaft do you have? It needs to be able to handle the power/torque and RPMs you'll be turning with the LS3. Second, I would try to find a billet steel flywheel if it's lighter than the stock LS3 unit. I don't know what they weight. I have an AL behind my LT1. It's much better than the cast factory flywheel but it definitely doesn't hit the tires on launch like the stock piece did. This is do to the less inertia it carries which also helps it to rev quicker. Given the chance to do it again, I'd try for billet steel if available since it is lighter than stock but not as light as AL.

Good luck.

Thanks for taking the time to get those measurements.

I measured up the clamshells on the mounts in the car. They are ~3 1/4 from the frame to the back side of the shell. Pretty close to your measurements given there was also so slop with the bolts.

Given the measurements you provided and a good point Mike made to me about flanges catching on things more than slip joints I'm really reconsidering the SW over Kooks. The price at you showed me certainly doesn't hurt either....



I currently have an alumn shaft with spicer joints. It was custom made when I swapped the axle. I'm hoping worse case I need to cut it for the LS but hopefully no change at all...

The issue you discuss with the flywheel is my concern as well. I've never run an alum flywheel but have ofter heard the same issue you note above. Do you know the weight of the stock flywheel? I'll most likely use a billet steel version based on the same issues you state but am still curious if others have the same opinion as you.

Steve,

If you're considering Stainless Works headers, these guys have them, with 15% off coupon as well, or try deal20 for 20% off. The 20% off expires tomorrow.

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...A5716A0A0.aspx

Be careful with that link if you are ordering for a gen 2. The price is really good but they have the gen 1 part number listed incorrectly.

Ha, didn't pay attention to the p/n. I just put in the search for 70 Camaro.

How's your swap coming?

I hate it when that happens!

I'm sure you know the correct number is ca7081ls1.

No idea what a factory LS3 flywheel weighs. It looks to be a better quality casting than my LT1 flywheel. A billet steel piece may not be that much lighter but I think it's worth investigating.

A small update on my latest changes.

In general I've been spending far too much $$$$$. I ordered up a few parts

• Quicktime bell housing
• New fittings for my oil lines including a remote oil filter
• New PFTE fuel lines and fittings
• Vaporworx tank with a ZL1 pump
• Custom cam
• Link bar lifters
• BTR 660 springs with titanium retainers
• New pistons, rods and bearings
• New rocker arms and trunion upgrades
• Stainless Works headers - hoping they fit....
• All ARP fasteners

I'll be picking up the block and rotating assembly from my Houston tomorrow. Block has was honed to fit the pistons and just cleaned up. The rotating assembly is now balanced and a keyway was added to the crank for the balancer.

Heads are now in OH at TEA getting a CNC port before they go to BTR for final blending and assembly. Hopefully they will be back in 2-3 weeks.

I'm still debating to have the harness rebuilt as a stand alone or to simply get one from PSI. Rebuilt cost will be 325 including some missing connectors vs PSI cost at 570. Part of me says just get the new one to ensure there are no issues... but savings is pretty good for rebuilding.... Any thoughts?

I'm also debating on the clutch. The factory clutch is in good shape with only some rust on the flywheel that can be cleaned up. Part of me says to use this but I am also seriously thinking to get a Monster clutch dual clutch setup so I don't have to worry about anything.... It's a lot of coin but its made in Texas so the quality should be pretty good.....

I am pretty sure you know the answer - get the new one. The cost saving isn't worth it.

I can't speak to that one specifically, but in general, replacing a clutch SUCKS! Words to ponder... ;)

Dang. Awesome parts list. You really are blowing it out of the water. I guess that drop in cost of living from CA to TX is really helping this project.... :D

So what is the current clutch and its condition?

Yeppers.

meh, put a new disc in it if everything looks. start upgrading after you break the engine in. Its a wear item.

I figured this would be the answer. I't s like asking a crack dealer if I should buy more drugs.....

The flywheel and PP have surface rust on them so need to be cleaned up. Overall the disk is not very worn at all. My only real concern is poor shifting at higher RPM's



This is what I am thinking to do. I hear the factory clutch is the same as the LS7 which I'm told is pretty good although heavy as hell. I'm not sure of this...

And you know with all these upgrades, and the "different" new type of power you have in the LS, you wont' be very "soft" on her. So yes, i concur, go with the baddest clutch u can. I'm beatin the snot outa mine (stock C5 Luk clutch) and so far so good, man its fun......

Hope you at least saved a few bucks... maybe more.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=46955

I agree it will be beat up pretty good. I'm excited to get it all done.

I got a very good deal on them. While the savings from Cali to TX is very good I do still need to save a few $$$ where possible

Thinking of spending $$$, I was checking out those C&R radiators like you have. The look spectacular and I really like the integrated cooler.... unfortunately I don't think that is quite in the budget yet....

Steve,

saw this in Curtis's(spiffav8) thread. Page 8. Jeff posted it along with more engine build details. Thought of you when I saw it

will be installing a new ACT Sport/ Race 6 pad Clutch kit w/ ACT Prolite lightened flywheel

I've made a little bit of progress on the car but am still waiting on a few more parts.

I decided to go with a vaporware tank with a ZL1 pump. The guys at Ricks did a great job and were terrific to work with.

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I also received my SW headers. In general these are nice but there were a few things I noticed could have been improved. At the collector they pinched the tubes down and did not clean up the inside. Also on the primaries they could have done a better job cleaning the area after the welding too. Nothing huge that a die grinder and some time couldn't fix. I did use the plates they sent and the fitting of the block with the clam shell mounts seems to be perfect. I never pulled the trans so it's in the exact position it was with the SBC. It bolted up pretty well, only needed to move maybe 1/2" which was simple.

I am very glad it is an aluminum block. It makes test fitting things soooooo much easier. Next thing I need to work out is the Alt/PS mounting. I want to place the alternator on the pass side below the water pump where the A/C compressor used to be. I also want the PS down fairly low on the driver side almost like the SC PS. I need to fab up some mounts when I find some time


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Here is the factory 2010 Camaro mount with SW plates and Speedtech Pitman

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Internal engine wise i have most of the parts. The block is honed for the new pistons, rotating assembly fully balanced with crank keyway added for the balancer. Custom cam from BTR is in along with the Johnson tie bar lifters. I'm only waiting on the heads.

TEA has the port and valve blueprint (45/50 angles) complete but also needed to change all the guides. Apparently they were completely worn out with only ~28k miles. BTR should have the heads now for final blend and assembly. I hope to get them back late next week.

Goal is to have the car running just after labor day. It's a bit of a stretch...

I'm surprised at those headers --- you're spot on -- the weld quality - and in fact the mounting holes are not what I would expect. Sloppy!


Glad it's coming together Steve! It better be up and running when I get there the end of September for Lonestar Nats!


Salt Lick and Franklins here we come!!

The headers look like an apprentice may have done them. :headscratch:

I think you may be right Sieg, certainly a different welder did mine. Also mine appear to have a different collector.

This is why I hate recommending parts or companies.

Another 2nd gen
 

You think those headers have issues
one of the Pantera vendors had a bunch
of SS headers made up for Clevelands (yeah
that is a ford for those you don't know:)
One of my buddies ordered up a set and the cones
they installed in the collector where the four tubes
meet were off center so far he jumbed in his truck
and drove to the La to get a better set.. they
went thru a dozen sets before they found one that
was right.. also had cracking just down from the
header flanges..

Beware of what you buy and who made it...
worse of all check it as soon as you get it
not 3 years later when you are finally ready
to install them.. I've done that several times.. not good

Panteracer

I've seen worse parts before but I am glad I got them at a discounted price instead of paying the advertised price. I assume they will work fine but they definitely could be better. I suppose I should have contacted SW before I started to grind on them to see if they would replace them. I didn't think about it until I was almost done.

Car will be running by then, at least that's the goal. I think the Goodguys show is the weekend of Oct 4 which is the same as a good friends wedding. Unfortunately I'll be stuck in Austin. When you're down here I'm certainly up for one food and I know Brian has been anxiously waiting for you to return as well.

Finally think I have most of my parts for the new engine. Head arrived over the weekend and look very nice. I mocked the engine in place and am very happy with the placement of the engine and the header fitment. Everything is tucked up nicely. Even with 1/2 height body mounts I have ~1/2" between the collector and the floor pan. The pics aren't that good because it was loosely mocked up. Once I have it all together I'll take better pics.

I started filing the rings today for engine assembly, hopefully by the end of the week I'll have it complete.

I think the only real fab work I need to do is to build the alternator mount. I have a plan using some 1/4 plate with some 5/8x.120 DOM. Hopefully it works. I also decided an accusump was necessary so I need to figure out where to mount that beast too.


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You only have about 3 weeks to get it done before I get down there!!

A few all nighters ought get 'er done!

I think the only real issue is the alternator mount and the tuning. Are you headed to Austin or just Dallas? Y'all going to the Le Mans race?

Coming from California with the Good-Guys Hall of Fame Tour to Ft Worth... then we're going down to Austin to see Adrienne and SW... So we'll all have to get together for some BBQ.

Some Salt Lick sounds good, I'll make sure Bryan knows too......

If you have a chance you should get here by Sept 19-20 for the Le Mans races they were the best I saw last year overall. I also think they will be running at night this year but would have to confirm that.

We depart Pleasanton CA Sept 25th... so will miss the LeMans at COTA. I have a busy October.... with the GG Lonestar Nats. Fly home - load the Rig... head for the NorCal Shelby event at Thunderhill... then I think we're heading for INDE Motorsports near Tucson for a charity event (the one I took Gwen's R8 to last time). Thinking about running the Lotus at that event. So basically October would be over by the time I got back home. LOL

Then it's time for TURKEY and skiing!! Yippppeeeeeeeeeee

Lookin good Steve. About done yet? :popcorn2:

Certainly you can find some better company to hang with in Texas than Weld. :getout:

Closer than any blue car I know.....

I figure hanging out with Weld is like giving to charity. I'm doing a good thing for the world because new people aren't forced to interact with him.... :weld: :poke:



Spent most of tonight filing rings and working on the alternator mount. Here is a pic of the mount as it is. I used some 1/4 plate and have some 5/8x.120 DOM to use as a spacer for the bolts. Plan is the reinforce is back to the block near the motor mounts there is less flexing. I also want to retain the driver side idler pully using an aluminum spacer i will fab and add an idler pulley near the mount closest to the center of the engine. I think this will give me maximum wrap of all pulley. To clear the thermostat housing I am hoping a manual adjuster like this one (https://www.texas-speed.com/p-2838-a...r-wpulley.aspx) will move the pull to the center an down enough to clear. Luckily Texas Speed is now local so I'll try to pick one up tomorrow.

Attachment 50144

More progress made over the weekend. Short block is together with only a little time needed to finish the engine build.

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I also think I made more progress with the accessory drive. I think I'm going to try to reroute the belt like the truck setup and build my own manual belt tensioner. I'm a little worried about the clearance needed since the area under the TB and rear the radiator hose will be tight. Does anyone know a tolerance that is reasonable for whip in the belt in and out of load using a manual tensioner?


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Okay -- this might at first seem like a stupid question - but I'm going to ask it because I've seen this mistake made before... Not saying YOU made any mistakes - I'm just asking...


Did you match up the piston valve notches with the valve placement in the heads...


And did you offset the ring gap...


Torque with the proper lube??

All good questions and thanks for confirming

When I first hung the pistons I did not think about the valve reliefs and needed to rehang half of them.... it sucked... There is a left and a right in the kit you you do have to pay attention. I also have all the rods hung correctly with the large chamfer towards the crank.

I set all the ring gaps, took me over a day to do. I decided on the circle track spec which equated to basically .023 2nd and .022 first. I felt I'd rather have a little too much gap and not worry about heat expanding the rings and cracking the piston. It also sucked but the are right on for each hole.

I used ARP lube for all bolts except the rod bolts because Carrillo has a special lube they want to use for there specs

And this is why i'm paying someone else to build my engine haha. i would be second guessing myself for months about stuff like this.

I'm far from an expert but have build many engines in general over the years. I just take my time, double check all the measurements and continuously roll the engine over to make sure nothing is binding up. This is my first LS so I'm hoping it goes as well if not better than all the SBC's I built in the past... If I screw it up I pull it back out and learn what not to do again..:EmoteClueless:

So, that belt is really close on both the top and the bottom of the radiator hose. Do you have enough clearance to move the PS pump up or down? It looks like if you help one you will hurt the other...

I was thinking to possible use an under drive PS pulley. First I need to see how the modern PS pump pressure compares to an old style pump when using a steering box. By using a larger diameter pulley the belt will hug the WP pulley more and clear the hose. If I also keep the tensioner lower the angle seems to create at least 1/4" clearance with the intake tube. I was also going to grind a small portion of it down for reassurance. It's all just mocked up by hand in the pic so it's hard to say. I have the same concern you mention.

Oh, and I should have talked you into taking TOW to cars and coffee this morning. I complete forgot about it until 8am this morning.