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Very well done
:trophy-1302: Very well done, nice build!
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6 Attachment(s)
Fab'd up the remote fill and dip stick for the dry sump tank.
Attachment 69883 Started with adding a 1/2" NPT port for the dip stick and a -12AN for the fill to the top section of the tank. Attachment 69884 Added this radius'd AL tube as an internal guide for the dip stick. Using Lokar Universal Locking dipstick. Attachment 69885 Fab'd up this little remote filler box with a filler neck and a -12AN port. Attachment 69886 The start of the sheet metal access ports. This one is for the dipstick. Attachment 69887 Blended them into the upper portion of the fender. Still have plenty of clearance even when the hood is closed. Attachment 69888 Here's the underside. |
Nicely done!
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damn nice...
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Are you going to weld the old fill port closed? I'll need to do something similar on my car and was thinking of welding it up.
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Agreed...just saw your latest pics and see what you're getting at, your's will be visible, I actually think it's going to look bitchen seeing the tank. I bet you can get either Peterson or Aviaid to build the tank without the filler neck. Not sure if you have the tank yet. |
2 Attachment(s)
Deck lid support. Fab'd up this little bracket and used a support from Lift Supports Depot. Couldn't make one of the prefab'd ones from our normal go-to companies work because of the fiberglass lid... I did try.
Used nutserts to attach the bracket to the lid. I ended up with a 58 lb. support, though I don't have the spoiler on yet, it should still be stout enough. |
2 Attachment(s)
You guys will appreciate this story; good friend of mine started his company Factor 55 at his house, lives few doors from me, with one product - self designed and machined. Mostly off-road recovery products. factor55.com. Heavily focused on engineered and tested products that are 100% American made...here in Boise. They now have a ton of products and are the shizzle in the off road world, something like 15 SEMA awards (South Building in the center, this year)
I convinced him to build me some custom tow hooks and this is the beginning of that process. The front will get lightened up quite a bit but waiting until I do the front spoiler. His system uses a soft shackle for connect to the tow vehicle. Not sure how I'm going to attach the rear, will work on it this weekend. |
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Rear tow hook
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Beautyful!!!!!
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It looks nice, are you going to clear anodize or paint or something like shark hide?
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Thanks!
Yep, anodize. Not sure of color yet. Getting pretty close to inking the body color; Valencia Orange, Ford Red or Gun Metal Gray, all still on the option block. Exterior aluminum pieces will likely be gun metal gray for the orange or red options. |
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I'm with Mike on this one. Gray is not a good choice. I like orange. Not sure exactly what shade Valencia is though. BMW's Sakhir Orange really does it for me. They have darker gray accents on their cars that might help you visualize what it could look like it. After all these years burnt oranges still look great to me.
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Agreed. Valencia Orange and a red similar to Mazda's Soul Red are high on the list. Trying to stay with a 2 stage system for easy repairs.
Always appreciate the input! |
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Back on the rotisserie for a ton of final welding and grinding cleanup. Tedious and boring. Need to be at the sandblaster followed by Epoxy in the next 6 weeks or it waits until Spring! No!!!!
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Looking forward to this stage, means that its getting close to paint and assembly.
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At the sandblaster.
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Sweet!
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#jelly
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Spent 7 hours blowing out the sand. Off to a friend's spray booth tomorrow for Epoxy. Air compressor, leaf blower, shop vac. Rinse repeat. I have sand in places I shouldn't.
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Should've known I didn't spend enough time blowing out sand, add another 3 to total 10 hours when I finally called it good and rolled it into the spray booth for a couple coats of DP-90. Now the dust really starts flying!! I'm far from a proficient spray gun guy but had a voodoo paint n' body guy standing next to me so it went well.
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I am back working on my car and not kidding when I say I had sand come out of somewhere and I have no clue where it came from. |
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In process of semi-smoothing the undercarriage. Not going overboard but just a few days with some Everglass to make sure the welds are sealed and improve the look before Raptor.
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Looks great man.
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8 Attachment(s)
Fab'd up some side mounts for the fuel tank so I can eliminate the tank straps.
Attachment 71016 Shaved off part of the front mounting bracket for the tank strap to add a little more room for the exhaust. Only gained a 1/2" but it may help later. Attachment 71017 Using Ridetech's universal billet gas cap, took a bit to make it work but I think it's worth it. It's a really nice piece.... will be a shame to cover it with the license plate! Attachment 71018 Cleaned it up Attachment 71019 Attachment 71020 Had to raise the access port a bit to clear the new filler body and provide room for the filler neck vent port. Attachment 71021 Made this little box to reseal this area up. I made an opening for access to the filler neck vent port, just to provide a visual later to make sure it doesn't leak. I'll make a gasketed cover for this opening later. Attachment 71022 Welded in and epoxied. A little seam sealer after the epoxy cures. I still need to modify the filler neck to get it to align with the fuel tank....next week. Attachment 71023 |
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Finished some smoothing and sealing then resealed the touched areas with another coat of epoxy.
Attachment 71031 Attachment 71032 Attachment 71033 Attachment 71034 |
Sweet!
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It's almost going to be too pretty to flip the car back over.
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tools and abrasives
Wow, following this thread and seeing how you clean up those welds is incredible. Mind sharing what tools/ abrasive wheels/ discs you use to smooth out the welds to that finish? I must see this process...especially when trying to smooth out a 90 degree pocket weld.
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Since I'm less than an expert at making pretty welds and I only use my MIG because I end up needing 5 beers after trying to TIG!.... I've definitely had my share of grinding welds to clean them up. Of course, being careful not to impact the strength of the weld just for aesthetics! By the way - I'm 1000% sure someone here will have some better/additional advice.... please don't hesitate to chime in here, no issues with me! When grinding sheet metal welds, I use a 3"x3/16" 3M Green Corps grinding wheel on a straight die grinder. I'm embarrassed that I don't remember the person here on LatG that recommended these to me..but they are awesome for the first level of grind, that person made my life better! Ha. I do that first grind parallel to the bead to keep the wheel from touching down on the base metal. Once it's close, I switch to either a flap disk on an electric grinder or 2", 36 grit disk on an air angle grinder. For cleaning up welds in corners or wherever, I just use a carbide burr on the same straight die grinder. And finish it up with either the 2" disk and/or cartridge rolls. None of the local shops here in Boise carry those, so I get them online from Empire Abrasives. Don't think there is LatG sponsor that carries them? Hope that helps a little. |
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Thanks for the input on the different tools you are using! I just ordered a couple a those things to try them out. On the metal it almost looks like you have a sanded finish/ has some tooth to it. Is that from the grinding discs or to you go back and sand the metal smooth an orbital or something? Also while making all the panels, are you using a bead roller to stamp in all those strengthening creases? And i promise ill stop asking questions
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