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Sieg 12-29-2012 05:37 PM

OK, back to nipples, crap! I meant electrical. :rofl:

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 452771)
You'll need to check voltage drop --- AND resistance (Ohms). High resistance would lead me to check connections for corrosion... tight secured terminals... etc. Then if that all looked good then I'd be yarding the starter for a load test on it.

Now --- you may also have an issue at the ignition switch / wiring to it/to starter. So after you've cranked it 3 times or so --- I'd be feeling for heat in any of the wires out of that switch. Just gently put your hand around the bundle and see if there's a hot one... 'Cause the switch could be breaking down --- or a corrosion issue or connector that's loose etc. Might carry the load once -- then heat up and go apoplectic.

Actually had weather that allowed a test drive. Checked the battery voltage after it was off the tender for an hour and had 13.17v, then went on a 20 minute drive with minimal stops only running the heater on low and no other lights or accessories. Shut it down and it restarted with no noticeable starter laboring. Checked the voltage again and it was 13.07.

WSSix 12-29-2012 07:22 PM

Check it in the morning and see what it reads.

Also, if your multimeter can read amps, remove the positive lead off the batter and read between the cable and the battery. You should have little to no amperage depending on what stays on while the car is off ie clock or security system. You'll need to make sure the interior lights are off before you do this.

I found a bad relay on a 76 vette that was killing the battery. It was part of the factory alarm system so there was no outward indication that anything was staying on when the car was off. Just had to follow the draw on the power source to its end.

Sieg 12-29-2012 09:13 PM

Just checked the battery and it was 12.87v. I'll check again in the morning.When checking for amp draw between battery and positive lead the alarm started chirping real soft at 200u with each increase on the scale it got louder.

This is interesting as I noticed the last time I disconnected and reconnected the battery the alarm didn't trigger as it normally would. So I could have a bad relay in the alarm......possibly one that's the ignition kill circuit? Could this test possibly have reset the system? I doubt I could get that lucky...........but I'd take the win. :D Or a poor alarm ground?

FWIW - It's an older Viper system with shock, motion, ignition kill, and door locks. Time to dig for the alarm manual from twenty plus years ago.........

It's not easy being dump as a stump when it comes to electrical systems. :(

WSSix 12-30-2012 08:11 AM

Hmmmm, I'm not sure about the alarm chirping. Were you maxing out the scale as you increased from micro, u, ie did the reading go higher than the scale would allow and that's why you increased the scale?

If nothing else, I'd disconnect the alarm and see if that stops the voltage drop. To me, a 20 year old alarm is nothing but a noise maker. It won't even come close to stopping a thief that wants the car.

Sieg 12-30-2012 04:08 PM

Trey, I wasn't focused on the reading when I noticed the alarm, I was listening. I'm guessing I can replicate the condition.

Agree on the alarm system value, but the car thief's we have in our area aren't very sophisticated. The power door locks are the best part of the system. I'll be re-evaluating the system in the near future as I was never impressed with the attention to detail of the original install. The NGR steering wheel quick-release I just installed is a better theft deterrent IMO.

Just check the battery after sitting over night and most of the day without the tender or alarm on and it's reading 12.66v. I'm running the car in to town so I'll check for draw after the trip.

Thanks for the input. :thumbsup:

Sieg 12-30-2012 06:06 PM

No starting issues with two restarts on the trip. Checked battery on return 13.44v and after an hour down to 13.08. Watched the volt gauge while driving with heater on low 15.1v, with parking lights or headlights 14.2v. It appears the charging system is OK.

Also checked the battery leads, .6 ohms resistance. Exploration and testing to be continued.............

intocarss 12-30-2012 06:16 PM

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/...bsc0o1_500.jpg

GregWeld 12-30-2012 06:17 PM

Okay -- I'll just keep SCUBA diving since you don't seem to need my .02 worth of expertise.


:D

Sieg 12-30-2012 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 454443)
Okay -- I'll just keep SCUBA diving since you don't seem to need my .02 worth of expertise.


:D

Still waiting for pics. :unibrow:

I haven't forgot........
Quote:

You'll need to check voltage drop --- AND resistance (Ohms). High resistance would lead me to check connections for corrosion... tight secured terminals... etc. Then if that all looked good then I'd be yarding the starter for a load test on it.

Now --- you may also have an issue at the ignition switch / wiring to it/to starter. So after you've cranked it 3 times or so --- I'd be feeling for heat in any of the wires out of that switch. Just gently put your hand around the bundle and see if there's a hot one... 'Cause the switch could be breaking down --- or a corrosion issue or connector that's loose etc. Might carry the load once -- then heat up and go apoplectic.
Holiday stuff was getting in the way of my gear-heading tasks list.

Sieg 12-30-2012 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intocarss (Post 454442)

Dawgis - Shouldn't you be tinkering on your friction generators? :D


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