Gregs Mustang
 

Greg,
your giving up all your secrets.. Charley is quietly
building his without you knowing

Have you put the Jerico in it yet?

Panteracer

His car is "fine"..... besides --- it's a REAL race car where mine is a clone... so If I had his - I wouldn't mess with it either.

It's ALWAYS had a Jerico.


Not giving up any secrets -- because the secrets aren't the parts themselves... although some are - but it's how they're set up!! That's the sauce right there!!!

LOL

Sounds like the recipe for a reliable vintage racer to me.

YUP! It's a little rehab mixed in with the "while we're here".... and as I've said in past posts in this thread -- try to make it a little better than it is... because after driving the Lotus.. you want that kind of braking and turn in etc. We won't get to where the Lotus starts but we can move the needle a bit.

Any reason why your running a 245 on a 9 1/2 inch rim? I would think that might be a little to much stretch of the sidewall. You could have easily put 275's on a 9 1/2 inch rim. Unless the fenders don't allow for that much tire.

The recommended wheel width for the tire size I'm running according to Hoosier is 8 to 9.5"



Section width on the tire is 9.9" AKA "skinny"

Got a note back from Borello today -- the motor had a standard oil pump... He'd already ordered a high volume pump to go with the pan I'm running. He also says he expects pressures to be 65 to 70 psi and that the dyno sheet shown is too low.

That was my feeling. The best engines I've owned had great oil pressure. To me, that was a huge oversight on a road race engine.

I didn't question it because I would have ASSumed the builder was capable of also seeing those numbers --- and a pump change after a dyno run - before the customer picks up the motor is pretty easily accomplished.... so I felt that there might be a reason for the lower number that was particular to his builds. Lots of engine builders have their own "quirks". This motor revs faster than an electric, so I thought perhaps his clearances might be looser - thereby lowering the pressure etc.

I would also "expect" that there would be bottom end issues with too low of a pressure vs the valve train issues I've suffered. But I'm not an engine expert even though I've built a few personally - they were all fairly simple street engines.

I know there are various strategies for controlling oil in motors that are expected to be run at high rpms (vs street motors) in an effort to keep all the oil from being pumped to the top of the motor i.e. high volume vs high pressure pumps etc. But again - I would EXPECT a race engine builder to know these things and adjust accordingly!

Come on, you have been in this circle jerk for how long? Responsibility belongs in one place, square on your lap. I found even the best needed some micro managing as we all have a custom set of circumstances. ''

I would say reduced oil pressure could effect how cool the valves stay.