Distributor has a silver and blue spring currently, it was running fine with that set up but I found out the transfers slots were not exposed so I set them at .025 and had a 2K idle. The symptoms started when I loosened the distributor to retard the initial timing from 16* to a number that would deliver an acceptable idle speed and carb settings.

I can get it below 1K with little or no transfer slot exposure (.025 is spec). Problem was flat power as the clutch engaged.

Thanks Dale I hope it's that simple!

Just read your entire build thread, nice car and the motor package is impressive. Has to be a kick on the track. I'm assuming PIR? Have you been to ORP or The Ridge?

Have you given thought to running a MSD programmable digital 6al-2 box? Extra cost you would have to incur, but it could possibly solve your issues. One of its features is that it locks out your mechanical advance and gives you the ability to program your timing curve through the box. This gives you the ability to fine tune your timing curve you, otherwise, would not be able to.

I haven't with the 60's John Deere technology motor........yet. :D
Hopefully it's a simple issue with the mechanical advance.

Actually, the olds chool SBC would benefit more from such an ignition add-on than a modern motor would. Modern motors with their coil/cylinder and plethora of tuning through the computer wouldn't have much use for such. I have one ready to go on my motor

Scott, I've really enjoyed your build thread, but the invaluable part is all of the ignition timing troubleshooting help from all of the guys chiming in. It's really helping me on understanding my own car's issues!!! :thumbsup:

Thanks. It's kind of a cluster but covers the experience. :D

The knowledge and experience on this forum is second to none and priceless IMO. Even for those of us hiding in the closet working on old school budget stuff. :thumbsup:

:lateral:

You just described my build, carbed, Gen II small block with leaf springs and 17" wheels with a sprinkling of nice quality parts. I avoided siding with the "hiding in the closet" crowd!! LOL :rofl:

:thumbsup:

One upside is my car just "comfortably" appraised at 10x's it's original sticker price which means I'm honestly in the green on the project though I doubt it will ever be for sale. :)

When chasing an issue --- you want to only change ONE THING at a time --- see the result and then move on or move back. That's just my old skool de-bugging.

So we really have three things going on now...

Carb transfer slot adjustment.


The problem with adjusting carbs with seat of the pants tests is that you don't have a baseline set of numbers to work from. Jet size etc. We don't know if the thing is pig fat - or going lean with clutch engagement. Carbs are simple but they're also tricky. There's actually a lot going on there and most people don't really have the experience to do much other than mess up the idle adjustment...



Valve adjustment


I'm sorry - and don't want to embarrass you while trying to find your issue. But the adjustment sequence you gave isn't right. I hope you were just typing a short response. The backfire - and the exhaust "sound" you've described is wanting to tell me that your valves aren't closing. This could be a timing issue as well -- but this all started after you adjusted the valves... so I'm just trying to find "something" -- and the definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over and expect a different result. :willy: :lol:






Timing adjustment



I have had more than just a couple SBC motors.... :unibrow: and this spring combo won't make your timing jump from 4* to 14/16* by moving the distributor a half a blonde one. Something else is going on here. I don't know what it is - but it's not the spring combo. Todd mentioned sticking advance and that's possible. Or the stop bushing isn't engaged correctly. I'd pull the distributor and actually look at that. With it out - you can work the advance and see if it's free and comes back properly etc.