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Wider wheels and move suspension inward?
I've been thinking a little bit, so bear with me.
It seems one of the biggest factors that holds back these Pro Touring cars is tires. With the 200 treadwear, that limits the car quite a bit. My thought was if I could stuff a really wide tire up front, that would be a huge gain. Then I thought I could build some one off suspension that was narrower, so the extra wide wheel could fit over that suspension. And to get to my point: What if I moved the front suspension, both sides, inward 6" each? Just throwing a number out there. Then I could run a wheel that was 6" wider with offset? I know this is probably crazy and doesn't work...but why not? The track width would be about the same. The only thing I can think is that the degrees of camber/caster and toe would change more dramatically. Thanks for listening to my crazy idea. :) Hoping Mr. Sutton can chime in and school me on this. |
You're on the right track about needing to run wider front tires.
But simply moving the suspension "in" is not a good way to get there. The scrub radius increases ... and you run into packaging problems. Either the UCAs & LCAs run into the engine & exhaust, or you make the UCAs & LCAs shorter. Both are bad. I'll be unveiling a new track front suspension design on here in the near future that should give you some ideas. Until then, best wishes. Ron Sutton |
It seems to me that the reason for all the changes throughout the suspension travel is caused by the Unequal length of the upper and lower control arms. Could you narrow the frame a bit then add length to the uppers and shorten the lowers?
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Anumber of possible problems with that Idea - Putting a Motor in will be cramped if even possible, also Radiator. New Mounts, etc. Suspension Geometry.
T.C. |
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That is the common way for hot rods, because they don't care about actual cornering performance. I think what Code510* is asking about, is for actual handling performance on tracks, AutoX or curvy roads. Shortening the lower control arms is the one of the worst things you can do for the roll center. It migrates far & erratically during travel with short lower arms. Just the opposite ... longer lower control arms ... is the goal. *Please post your names. I dislike talking to a handle. |
Hi Ron,
I'm Tim. Sorry, I need to add that to my signature! My idea...mounting engine and everything practical aside...is if I cut the cross member out, and moved both sides of the suspension in, but leave all the geometry of the suspension the same, would that handle better since the wheels could then be wider? I know there is gains in suspension geometry, but this is just purely going off going with a wider tire. |
Hi Tim,
It's still the wrong direction. The key with wider tires is to build the wheels with deeper back spacing to reduce the scrub radius. |
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Thanks again, Tim |
couldnt you just run a wider wheel and tire:headscratch: combo with the correct offset and be fine? assuming you are ok with going with a wider fender and some fender vents to release trapt air?
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Have you seen the One Lap Camaro? Rather than move the wheels inboard to gain clearance he had the front fenders modified to fit a wider wheel/tire combo. IMO, this is with out a doubt the best fender flare job I have ever seen because it is so subtle that you don't even notice it but the huge tires fit like a glove. Check out the pictures in this thread.
https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...ght=lap+camaro There is a thread on here that shows how the fenders were flared but I can't seem to find that thread just now. Found it: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=38370 |
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