TKO 600 question
 

Does anyone know if I will have any problems installing TKO 600 in my 69 camaro If I am currently running ½ inch drop global west solid body mount bushings.

Also what would be the best parts to run with this tranny.
example :
-hydraulic verses manual
-brand of clutch, scatter shield.

My car is making about 600 hp and 600 ft-lb of torque.

I'm not sure about the drop bushings, but for the clutch and bellhousing, I had great luck with my CenterForce Dual Friction and the McLeod bellhousing/block. The Bellhousing and block plate were very high quality pieces and I'd highly recommend going that route.

classicchevy5speed
 

I'd highly recommend giving Jeff from ClassicChevy5Speed a call at 760-230-2045. He's a great guy and helped me out with my TKO-600 even though I bought from Keisler before I knew of Jeff.

hydraulic verses manual clutch...
 

I wanted to run a hydraulic clutch. Is there any reason why I shouldn't.

Doe's anyone know any pro's and con's to running a hydraulic verses a manual clutch.

Run the hydraulic. Super smooth, no header clearance issues, etc.

Jody

I'm in the opposite camp-- If you have no header clearance issues, run a mechanical clutch with good quality heim joints everywhere. Just as smooth as a hydraulic clutch, cheaper, and with less chances of something leaking brake fluid and eating your paint. :P

Personally, after putting the heim joint clutch linkage in my car, I'd only run a hydraulic setup if there are header clearance issues. My linkage is extremely smooth! I also like how an all-mechanical setup transmits a bit more "pedal feedback" about the clutch take-up and what is going on. Although, the hydraulic setup allows for easy tailoring of clutch pedal throw/weight by altering the MC bore size. You can do the same by adjusting the pivot points on a mechanical setup, but you need to double check everything to make sure you don't go over-center at some point and "stick" the linkage down.

However, a good hydraulic setup will work just fine and knowing you have a BBC in that Camaro makes me think hydraulic will be the easiest way to go. It would probably be tough to snake a Z-bar and all the linkage around the headers in a BBC camaro. Also, AFAIK that 502 doesn't have the provision on the block for a clutch pivot ball.

As far as a scattershield, McLeod all the way with Moroso offset dowels if you need them.

I also recommend McLeod for the clutch and flywheel. Very happy with my Dual Performance and billet flywheel.

Troy, you just love to argue! :D

Jody

NO I DON'T!






:P

:D

Jody

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I'm not planning on ever racing the car so I just want to make it more fun for street driving. I find my TH400 really boring.

I have the TKO-600 with mechanical linkage on my 69. Just as Troy has done, I went with the heim joints and aluminum rod for my clutch linkage and it is very smooth compared to stock.

Can you give some information on the heim joint set-up. What is exactly needed and where can you get the parts.

Thanks

Basically, you replace the factory "pin and rod" links at the clutch pedal to pushrod, pushrod to z-bar, and z-bar to clutch fork with turnbuckles and spherical rod ends.

You can buy teflon-lined rod ends and bulk aluminum threaded turnbuckles and yourself and do it or for just a few dollars more you can get it all delivered to you in one box ready to go, with a rather nice looking billet upper/lower pushrods: http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=34

I also highly recommend welding gussets onto the Z-bar. I've broken a couple Z-bars myself on the '65 Vette and had to drive home clutchless (fun!) The Z-bar seems to be the weak point especially with a stiffer clutch, the arms on the z-bar just rip right off the crosstube at the welds. Doesn't hurt to buy a HD (thicker) fork, too.

Troy

Thanks Troy, thats great information.

Yes,it is. Thanks,Troy. I think I'm going to order a kit for my car.