Skylark Touring
 

Hello,

I have a 72 Buick Skylark Custom Coupe and i'm going to improve it with hot stuff...
- Baer discs brakes 13" and 12"
- American Racing Salt Flat 8x17 and 9,5x17
- Polyurethane bushing
- Sway bars
- Eaton differntial
- Recaro seats in place of bench
- Autometer gauges
- flowmaster exhaust
- and in a near future (asa $$ allows it :rolleyes: ) an ATI supercharger kit by XS performance

I use to work on aircooled VWs, and it's the first US iron (my first love) that i restore , i can't wait to see and feel the changes in handling and braking....power is not for now :( ...

Good job guys
See you
David

Welcome David! Sounds like you're definitely headed in the right direction. :thumbsup: Keep us posted.

Step by step
 

Hello,

Thanks, ...as my master-cylinder just went of order (no more brakes on the rear) i will have to order my Baer kit sooner.
And i have someone interested by my Cragar, so i will be also able to order the Salt Flat...
I join pics of the Recaro seats, i will recover them in black vinyl, i will try to find the same as the original bench vinyl, to have a vinyl with little holes in the center of the seats to match the rear seats...Modernity with nostalgia look....
I just remove the clock to make a bracket to hold the tachometer.
Next step for the interior; new carpet, other autometers, new place for the radio (in the stock place), frames for the Recaros.
I have received the black stickers to replace the wood ones on the dash (light-A/C,...)
I hesitate, i don't know what to do with the old chrome on the dash, paint it black or silver???

David

Hi david, you've got a great looking car, I know that working on older american cars is a lot harder when you live in another country. I like those recaros, did they come from a factory car or did you just buy them straight from recaro? Good luck with the project :thumbsup:

Recaro
 

Hello James,

Yes, these seats look great, they are nearly the same as those in Big Red, the famous Camaro!!
I don't think that these Recaros were factory fitted in a car or perhaps as an option, but i'm not sure at all. I have seen similar ones in some Golf GTI (but the sides-next to the legs- were smaller)(see pic).
Mine were in beetle but i don't know where the previous owner bought them. I bought them 120$.
I think that they are no longer available by RECARO, the new ones are more modern, less nostalgia!

I think that that monster tach looks lot better than the small one, looks more serious!! And with the big one, i have the shift light.
Let me know what you think!

David

Orders
 

Hello,
I just went to order the American racing Salt Flat :) ...and the Baer discs brakes, but i think i will have to wait as they seem to have some problems with backorders???? :(
I have also ordered a cover plate to replace the A/C box(by American Graffiti), a new radiator + double fan, down pipes (by TA Performance), .
The next order will be:
flowmaster GM A-body exhaust (17107) with Super 40 mufflers, body mount kit, Eibach springs, Original Pro Stick, TCI trans pan,

New parts
 

Hello again,

In the previous threads, I forget to tell you a bit about me, but i don't think it's very interesting...
I prefer to talk about my Skylark which came from California where an old lady bought it in 1972...then it had some different owners until i bought six years ago. It made the trip to here in Belgium where i drive it as soon as the weather allows (i don't like to drive it under the rain).
so, now i just received some parts i ordered in your country...
-The 2.5 Flowmaster exhaust with Super 40 mufflers
-The Hotchkiss front sway-bar
-The Eibach springs
-a TCI pan for the gearbox
-B&M Pro-Stick shifter
-Prothane mounting bushing (i know it is for a chevelle, but i will try to fit them on the Skylark as there is no kit for that Buick!)
-a black Moroso air filter

The salt flat AR are in process of being built as the Baer discs, i have also a new aluminium radiator with dual 16"fan , down pipes ordered by TA Performance....but all these parts will be ship by container which will leave as soon as all the parts arrive.

I hope to have everything by the end of october....to start the work on the car...
The frame will be sandblasted and painted in black epoxy, every rubber will be replaced by urethane, the 4 discs will be fitted, the 2 sway-bars, the Eaton LSD, the underside of the body will be painted (Burnished Copper)and as well as the engine bay(and firewall) which will also be smoothed.

I will keep you advised....
Bye bye
David

Right on, David. :thumbsup: Be sure to post some pics when you get started.

Are you painting the underside and firewall? I have mine about ready for this stage but don't want to send it to a shop. I know of a mobile sandblasting company that will spray it but as far as paint, I don't know.

paint
 

Hi T Bell,

Yes i will paint the underside and firewall as i would like the car to be clean before putting back the frame. In fact i think about doing a complete paint job but as i have another project running, it depends if i find a bodyshop that can do it for a good price...otherwise i will start by the underside and do the rest in the future...
I will have to make a trolley or something else to rotate the body and make the job easier...

See what i mean when i say i want a neat engine bay!!!!
My engine bay compared to what i would like....a lot of work and a lot of useless things!!!

well hello david from belguim..........great to have you on board friend.......hotwheels

Still alive...
 

and i have nearly all parts to start...:unibrow:

The wheels Salt Flat:
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/1559/buick2jo9.jpg

The brakes from BAER:
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5...ebay02zea9.jpg

The Ron Davis Radiator:
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5324/dsc00158cp3.jpg

The front lower and upper CPP tubular arms:
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1332/lowerarmmg1.jpg

suite
 

The rear upper and lower Edelbrock arms:
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/1982/edelrg6.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4950/edel2zo7.jpg

http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/668/edel3sg7.jpg

Quick ratio AGR power steering box:
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9848/edagrkr8.jpg

A GS grill found on a Buick in a scrapeyard here in Belgium (the ugly) and a nicer, bought on ebay :
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/6908/edgsjk3.jpg

again
 

A front bumper found in UK and the rear bought on ebay (there are no repro for Buicks!):
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/9581/1bd61ow7.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7...2133pjpvw3.jpg

also, Dynamat isolator, a B&M transpak kit, a gearbox radiator, an Edelbrock fuel/air ratio gauge, ....

And i just went to order a P-1SC ATI Procharger from XS Performance with a 24"x12"x3" intercooler, an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, a Pro Flow bypass valve, an Aeromotive boost sensitive regulator, a Holley carb modification kit.
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/6...leuhbigov0.jpg


I will add to this:
a A-pillar pod for 2 gauges, a fuel and a boost pressure gauges, a Holley 650 carb, fuel filter.

I started to remove the old parts from the suspension to fit the new components and the brakes, in the rear i have to open the axle to install the Eaton LSD, I will place the supercharger as soon as i get it.
The car will be running before the big "restoration work"

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/9553/dscf1139gd8.jpg
a little bit of cleaning to prepare the engine for the supercharger (trial fitting).

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/7568/a1hy3.jpg
Out the drums and the old stock arms

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/563/zb3zj7.jpg

Copperage
 

Wow! What a nice car! Keep at it David! She is looking good!:thumbsup:

John

Nice build up!

help
 

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/1223/brasut7.jpg

Can someone tell me if the axle formed by the upper and lower ball joints has the right angle?
It seems that the caster is not quite good, is it normal, will it change when the car sits on his wheels?
The front of the car is on the left and the tubular arms are from CPP.
THX
David

Procharger
 

[IMG]http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2127/prochargol8.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/8...tercoolbr5.jpg[/IMG]

Here is the whole kit i received from XS Performance, including the intercooler...

also the side mirros and front hood chrome bought on e-bay....

[IMG]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4894/retrosgl6.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2397/b8f41dy0.jpg[/IMG]

David,
The last post about your 72 Skylark is almost one year old. If you still have it, here is another forum dedicated to Buicks, and particularly Skylarks.:clap:

http://www.v8buick.com/index.php

I hope you enjoy looking and maybe you'll join. I'm not on "Lateral-G" very often, but saw your Skylark thread and thought you'd like to know about "V-8 Buick". :thumbsup:

Jeff
in SW Fla

Still alive
 

Hello Jeff,
Thanks for the link, i'm already a member of that forum.

The Skylark is sleeping in the garage, i still have some parts to come from your country like the blow carb, and some other parts.
It looks like i'm also sleeping in place of working on it but i'm planning on moving (4 years that i'm looking for the right house!) and my actual garage is a mess, ...... i sold some of my cars to make room and have more place to work easily and efficiently but there is still some work....

I have to say that coming here and watching all the great projects and finished cars, makes my heart warmer...

hh
 

i'm at work i will post pics soon

http://buickskylark.skynetblogs.be

the rear
 

so watch the oil mess from a damaged seal...

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/940/dscf2916b.jpg

my Buick is originally from California, so a no-rust car , but a little ride on our fuc--- salty road can make some damages. Fortunatly only surface rust.

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/1541/dscf2920j.jpg

i had to make some cleaning, i used brake cleaner to remove all the oil:

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2002/dscf3121t.jpg

the new parts are ready to be fitted,

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/9555/dscf3124.jpg

the rear arms are ready to be bolted to the rear axle, i used some rust paint to have a nice working place...

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4209/dscf3127y.jpg

the axle
 

so now i'm busy with the rear axle and i need some help.
I have to set the pinion gear clearance to install the new Eaton differential.
Is it the right way to do it?
1-I have to replace the pinion bearings : the bigger must be pressed in . The smaller is not pressed.
Do i already have to place shims behind the big bearing at this point? if so which size ?
2-i check the gear pattern pinion/ring to see how much the pinion must move.
3-i must remove the big bearing to place (or remove) shims.
4-re-check the gear/pinion pattern...
5-then i set the ring and pinion tolerance with my dial indicator.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/4122/dscf3211z.jpg
THE PINION WITH THE BIG BEARING

the bearing kit
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2533/dscf3207p.jpg

the other wheels
 

I bought a set of OZ Futura wheels for a future project (i'm looking for a 70-72 El Camino).
They are 8.5x18 ET13 and 10x18 ET6 and have a metallic blue center :( with a polished rim , for a more "menacing" look i will paint them matt black :unibrow: (i tried on one wheel and placed it on the Buick, just 2see...).

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6752/dscf3206g.jpg

To answer you're axle question; It's a little more complex than that. You will need to figure out the backlash and pinion spacing. You may have to press the pinion bearing on and off a few times before you get it right. I usually start with the factory shims and go from there. I've only done 3-4 gear swaps, but they're all still holding up. Check out this site; it's for Toyota difs, but all the concepts are the same:

http://gearinstalls.com/

Thanks a lot
it's what i wanted to know, is there no risk to damage the bearing by pressing on and off several times? i 'll have to be very carefull...
i suppose you only fit the pinion seal after the backlash is set ?

Should be fine to press the bearing on and off, some people use the old bearing to figure out the shim thickness, then re-assemble and check with the new bearing. I would set everything up, get the right specs dialed in and then re-assemble one last time with the seal. You want to make sure you get the backlash and pinion dept right, otherwise you could end up with some broken parts or a noisy rear end.

One more thing, if you are using a crush sleeve, you only have one shot at getting it right. Overcrush it and you'll have too much preload on the bearing. You may want to consider a solid sleeve instead. The solid sleeves get adjusted by using shims.

sorry if i seem a little stupid, but what do you call a crush sleeve and a solid sleeve ? :D what is the difference ?
Is it the little tube that you use to set preload on the pinion?
i only got the one in the new bearing kit....
i try to do my best with all mechanical terms but some are :question:

David

Sorry, yes, that's the crush sleeve. If you look at your old one, you'll notice that it's shorter and "crushed down" when compared to the new one. Once you do your final assembly, install the new crush sleeve and torque down on the pinion nut. This is where is gets tricky, go too tight and the crush sleeve is ruined (ask how I know :)) You should have a spec. for pinion preload, it should be in inch pounds. You'll need a needle type inch pound torque wrench to measure the preload. Basically just turn the pinion nut; spinning the pinion/bearing assembly, generally speaking the specification for this measurement is usually around 10 inch pounds with a new bearing (check your specs). Also you do this without the ring gear assemble installed. Read through that link I gave you, you may have to look through several of his installs to get the whole picture, but it's good info.

FYI, a solid spacer is used instead of a crush sleeve. It's stronger and reuseable, since you do not crush it, you add shims until you reach the desired preload. Does this make sense? I know it seems like a lot, but take your time through the steps and it will be fine. I've done three so far and all are still fine because I followed all the steps. Good luck.

The Emlky way...
 

I wanted a running car while the Buick is under construction, so i bought this Elky with some work.

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/7821/sany0037c.jpg

it needs a paint (of course) some welding on the rear window area, new ball joints and some cosmetic job on the interior.

I tried the 18" wheels and some photoshop to lower it so much.
I think i will have to use dropped spindles, tomorrow i'm gonna measure the distance it needs to be lowered.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/3165/dscf3313a.jpg

it's a 71 from California (even with the rust!), V8, auto, no airco, power brakes and steering, front discs. It was originally metallic light green and i hesitate to paint it that way or white as it is now...:yes:

What wheels are those? What size wheels/tires are on it?

Congrats on the el camino. I would also like to know the tire size.

The wheels are OZ (but i don't know the model!) i bought them second hand.
They are 8.5x18 and 10x18
Tyres are 235/40/18 (but 245 would suits better)and 285/40/18 .

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/4015/dscf3599j.jpg

Thanks. I think they look awesome on there.

Beautiful l beautiful beautiful....

see now this thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...d=1#post301422

as the el camino parts had to be sandblasted, i took the Skylark rear axle with me to apply the same treatment

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6324/dscf4059.jpg

Shifter
 

Hi,

I have a dilema,
I have a B&M shifter for my Buick, in a first though i went to place it over my console, but it's too huge, so i could remove the cover and drop it inside the console and make a boot to fill the gap.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8715/dscf5415p.jpg


But i don't know if the result will be pleasant....
So i had another idea, buy another shifter : the B&M Unimatic which has a manual look and would perhaps better suits the console !

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5699/bmm80775w.jpg




Here you can see the plate i made to suits the console and install 2 switches, fuel and ignition.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3791/dscf5409d.jpg


Let me know what you would do.....
THX

David