65 GTO with schwartz chassis
 

The car is going to be at SEMA 2009 Just in time this year.

I would like to thank the following manufactures for there support on this project.
If weren't for these wonderful manufactures This project wouldn't have ever come together quite like it did.
I would to also thank all the Vendors, and individuals for there support on this project.

I am pleased to bring you the list of everyone who's been a part of the project.

Bent Custom and Performance of Chattsworth,CA
http://www.bentcustomandperformance.com/
Thank you mark for the fittings and hardlines.

Gordinis Garage of Newark,CA
(510)938-4800
Thanks Gordon for all the sheet metal work on the car it turned out beautiful.

Ricks Stainless Tanks
http://www.rickstanks.com/
Thanks Hector for supplying the one off aluminum tank for the car.

Ricks Auto Glass of Fremont, CA
(510) 661-0173‎
Thanks Rick for fitting all the glass in the car.

Interiors by Howdy of Fremont,CA
Thank you Howdy for making such a one off and beautiful interior.

Newark Collision Center of Newark,CA
(510)795-9000
Eddy and Miguel thank you for getting this body as straight as you have.


Schwartz Extreme Performance
http://www.schwartzperformance.com/
Jeff thank you for all your help with this project and Im glad I could do a little advertising for you.

Ron Davis Racing Radiators
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/
Dennis thank you for supplying the radiator for the GTO, Its the nicest aluminum radiator Ive seen around.

March Serpentine Systems
http://www.marchperf.com/
Casey Thank you for giving me the very first Production Pontiac style tracks unit.

Et Wheels
http://www.team3wheels.com
Thanks Scott for building the one off wheels for the GTO, I really love these things.

Enterprise Motorsports and Differential of Newark,CA
(510) 792-1965
Thanks mike for the exhaust System it is a work of art and I cant thank you enough.

West Coast Specialty Coatings of Concord,CA
(925) 682-4828
Thanks to the whole team over at WCSC for coating the headers and exhaust.

Pauls Chrome Plating
http://www.paulschrome.com/
Thanks Jim for returning me the nicest GTO trim and chrome, It has to be the nicest I have ever seen.

Vintage Air
http://www.vintageair.com/
Thanks Rick for helping out with all of the Climate control parts for the GTO.

Pacon Maching of Livermore,CA
(925) 961-0445
Thanks Nick for Helping me out with one off billet parts for the GTO.


Big O Tires Of Dublin,CA
(925) 829-1950
Thanks Greg and Fred of Big O, you guys where a great help on mock up tires and final product tires.

Melrose Metal Finishing inc
http://www.melrosemetalfinishing.com/
Thank you Curtis and Chris for Do such a beautiful Job on the powder coat. I am still am impressed you can color sand powdercoat.

Cardinal Industrial Finishes
http://www.cardinalpaint.com/
Thanks Tom for the Powder and paint it really is a tough good looking product.

American Auto wire
http://www.americanautowire.com/
Thanks Don for giving me such great advice on the highway series Harness.

Tavis Highlander concepts
http://tavishighlander.com/
Thank you tavis for the beautiful rendering of the GTO, it really made my ideas come to life.

Gcar Plastic Chroming and Restoration
http://www.gcartrim.com
Thanks glen for making my gauge cluster look better then new.

Redline Gauge Works
http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/
Thanks Shannon for making my gauges just like a 2005 GTO's, the gauges looks better in a 65 cluster then a 05 cluster.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...-GTO-large.jpg

More Pics

even more pics

AND more pics

Misc Pics

Lookin real good.

Looks damn good hows the fit of the frame looks good from what i can see.

Fits pretty well, the mounts on the frame I opened up alittle. It needs to be shimmed and Ill be set for powdercoat.

Love that Goat!

keep up the great work :thumbsup:

hey rich I ment to get those dimensions for you on the nova subframe.
I will be back from sema on saturday so PM me and I will have them by then.

Thanks for the positive feedback so far everyone.

G** D*** that is going to be one badass Goat. Keep us updated.

Thank you everyone for the uplifting comments and having faith in a soon to be 20 year old. I Just got back from SEMA and plan on working on the car tomorro, I will have update picks in a week or two.

Thats great it fits good its a older car things move and being mass production things are never prefect from the start.Are you gonna autocross it to see what it will do maybe some skid pad and slalom test.

I plan on doing some salom and skid pad test with the car to see what it can do and I am pretty sure It will do damn well. I havent left well enough alone and I am planning on ohlins coil overs all the way around and just dialing it in. ( which brings me back to my motorcycle days of tunning my suspension) I plan on showing it a lot to show the younger guys if you get out there and learn when your really young and pay attention to the details You really can have a car that rivals some of the best. The key thing on the this car is quality though, panels and parts have to fit correct,look straight, and function not just sit and look good.

Don't feel bad im only 24 but i learned everything from my step dad and grandfather some is self taught.When i worked at allstateford here i was the only tech that could rebuild a carb and tune or let alone a starter or alt things like that ain't teached anymore.

well so far so good, every one who see's the car says its not being slapped together and it looks like its a ton of work. I am not suprised dealerships dont teach carb rebuilding and starter rebuilding. This is how it goes pull out the old part through in the new part.

A lot of things people do wrong its nice to see a car done up good.Most of them i worked with went to tech schools and only learned half whats needed i always got stuck fixing there problems.I did work at a ok body shop i was the only one that could do lead and body soilder one of 2 that knew how to use a english wheel and body hammers all thats becoming a dying art now they use a dent puller and body fill whats left and it always pops out later.Just never quit learning and talk to a lot of older guys they know alot.

Ive been talking to a lot of older guys for the past 6 years on projects that range from the following below.
I started out restoring shcwinn stingray's, then my 1965 honda cb160,1967 305 honda scrambler, 79 jag, and now the goat.
I would just say building is where you learn almost everything.
Having the willingness to jump in head first, take things appart and learn. That right there will get you way further ahead Ive found.

BTW most my friends are about 40 and up so Im always the butt of everyones jokes/ the youngin.

Are those the Wilwood spot calipers ?

i assume if they are your rear rotors are .810 thick ?

Have you asked anyone about using those for a big car ? I looked at them but decided they just looked too wimpy (and wouldn't fit my 1.25 rotors anyway).

Just wondering if you had received any feedback that they would be acceptable for this application. i got the impression they would only be good for a small vehicle like a kart or something.

not much braking is done with the rear but they should be more then capable of helping stop this car. Heavy is what I call a stock GTO, I have removed rougly 400 pounds off the car between the chassis, engine,rear end, front suspension, grills, and battery. Im trying to cut weight as much as I can while keeping the cars body stock.

not much braking is done with the rear but they should be more then capable of helping stop this car. Heavy is what I call a stock GTO, I have removed rougly 400 pounds off the car between the chassis, engine,rear end, front suspension, grills, and battery. Im trying to cut weight as much as I can while keeping the cars body stock. my 66 hardtop lemans with a iron 400, weighed in at 3730 with me in it, bone stock. that is a complete iron motor and a half tank of gas(10 gallons which is rougly 70 pounds). these cars are not all together that heavy considering there size.

A fiberglass hood maybe fenders can shave off some weight.

Sorry for not being clear I wasn't worried about overall braking I was interested in the spot calipers you were using for an e-brake, and if someone had recommended those to you or what, since as I said I wanted to use them but they just looked too small to me for a full size car. Hence I was wondering if you had talked to Wilwood or anyone about using them as e-brake calipers.

well I tell you what, the e brake calipers on my xj12 are roughly the same size and they work great on the car. The jagaur is 3820 pounds with me and a half tank of gas which is 12 gallons (dual tanks). The spots im sure would have enough claminping power to hold the car on a steep hill. Im not even sure if Im going to run a E brake.

I do love the ones that use bigger brakes then needed or use the wrong pad compound and never got them hot enough to fully use them.Any updates on the car.

slowly coming along Biggest hold up is making bumper brakcets that fit the car. I also have to see if my old boss can take a look at my steering shaft and see if he approves of it. He builds race cars for a living so, I trust him.

We figured out a way to use the willwoods on a 1.250 rotor. We bought some extra spacers from Willwood and had the axle mount brackets made longer. I think we had to cut 1 spacer in half to get enough travel in the arm to clamp the rotor. Call Jeff at the shop if you're interested in how to make them work. www.schwartzperfomance.com

more pics

I think you have all seen my 64 style dash with the vintage air controller in it.
That is a real engine turn panel, not vinyl like original in 1964.
I copied the 64 dash because it looks better then the wood grain that came stock in 65.

That's really cool, I'm liking that. :cheers:

glad to see you like the dash scott.
I am in the the phase of trying to remove as much weight while still keeping the car looking stock. I am thinkng manual top ,fiber glass hood, and trunk lid.
I need to find a fiberglass hood and trunk that fits correct.

any updates on this?? I myself am really thinking about getting the schwartz frome for my 67 GTO. anyways keep up the good work.

Just getting ready to chop into the firewall to put a wilwood pedal assembly in the car. Then finish the steering shaft and bumper brackets, after all that is done I need to clean a couple spots up and send the frame to powder coat. I will have to say if you do by a chassis, Jeff is a great guy to deal with. He was more helpful then just about anyone out there. If your going to do a schwartz chassis there is a advantage the frame is light two guys can pick up the frame. Trust me the goat is in the works and will be done sometime in the next 6 months.

I'm pretty sure the stock frame can be picked up by two guys also.......... :yes: Jeff does have some cool stuff for sure, good luck on your project.

Jody

I Know when my buddy and I picked up the stock frame we were struggling a little bit.( the stock frame was boxed convertible frame which does make it heavier then the C channel). The schwartz frame is pretty easy to pick up not a struggle at all. I am also going to try to get a manual top for the car opposed to the power top it has. I am willing to trade some one there manual early a body top for my power top. Im not sure if Im going to save much weight but, I know Ill make the car simpler.
Oh camcojb Hows that chevelle comin im extremely excited to see that thing finished soon here.

I really like the dash idea probably because I had thought of doing that also. since the 64 f85 dash is basically the same. Did you do the engine turning?

It's at the final body and paint stage, will have it back the first of the year. Will be updating my site with body/paint pics and the complete build as it goes together. There are still several pics on my website in the Mali2ude section.

Jody

It is real engine turn and I had FPM metals of nebraska do the panel. I would not attempt to do the engine turning unless you have experience with it.

well I thought I would put up some pics of the motor when we built. Mind you this is last year. We were using a solid lifter cam(256,262@50 640/660lift 110 lsa, victor junior, 850 demon, ported 72cc edelbrock performer rpm heads,swirl polished ferrea valves, comp bee hive springs,locks and retainers,crower 1.6 roller rockers, eagle H beam rods, eagle cast steel crank, cheap yet effective modified speed pro pistons, Clevite 77 bearings, Butler billet 4 bolt steel main caps, blue printed melling SD455 Oil pump, Milodon windage tray, canton road race pan with pick up, MSD mechanical advance distributor, ARP bolts on everything, Dougs number 567 headers and a Flow kooler water pump.
Its a 73 XA block 455 bored .030 over=462
I had fun remaching every part of the block,measuring every clearence, file fitting the rings, dishing the pistons.090, Deburing, chamfering all the gallies ,etc......
I removed all the flashing, and useless hunks of crap on the block.
The only thing that was reused was the block, two main caps (1,5),and oil filter housing.

that combo through down 619 hp and 677foot pounds of torque on the dyno

with some tweaking we got 629hp @6100 and 690foot pounds@ 3600.
this was done on a superflow 901 We pulled the brake at lower RPMs but it wouldnt hold.

Now I pulled off the manifold and put a BG tripower setup and ditched the solid lifter cam and pulled the oil restrictors. I put a comp cams XE294 cam in which is 250/256 @50 and 552 lift intanke and 568 exhaust with a 1.6 ratio rocker. The cam is also a 110 lsa we installed it advanced 2 degree's. we have yet to dyno the motor and se what it throws down. im guessing 565-600 hp and torque over 600 probaly.

I have never done it but it is pretty simple well actually doing it is but keeping each of the swirls straight and evenly spaced would be tough. Most people use a cray stick but have heard a piece of scotchbrite would work also.
What did the panel cost from FPM?