Distilled water and Deionized water
 

Distilled water and Deionized water is there a big difference? Ready to fill the new radiator I bought and it says to use Deionized water. Not sure where to even find it. Is it o.k. to use Distilled water instead?

Distilled water is actually better than the deionized water that you get through home water filtration systems. I've been using distilled water with good results.

Thanks for the info. I re-read the directions and it says to use one or the other. If all goes right I'll be able to fire the car up tomorrow! :thumbsup:

Just dump water in it!!! :willy:

Fire?


Sure you wanna use that terminology??? :_paranoid

:rofl:


What you should do is take bottled water, boil it, collect the steam in an autoclaved and sterilized container, and use that. That way, there'll be no contamination in your coolant system. You did sterilize and autoclave your engine post assembly, didn't you?:willy:

Actually I think that was almost the case!! :wow:

Damn alternator lugs!

Been spending 10 to 12 hours a day on the car all week. Pretty much put everything else in my life on hold trying to get the car finished. If it doesn't run tomorrow (yes another days delay) I might just torch it in the drive way out of frustration. :willy:

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture090.jpg

thats a pretty cool picture. Blow it up and hang it up on the wall behind the car

Thanks! It was Aj's idea...maybe I should hang it up in his garage. :lol:

lol...i just want royalties...

FYI...

DI isnt a process used in household water filtration systems. Nor, for about 99% of DI usage, is it even considered safe for human consumption unless it is specifically, specified for human consumption.

DI water isn’t necessarily pure water, given the de-ionization procedure. Non-ionic contaminants may still persist. Electrically polar molecues dissolve easily in water, and some complicated molecules have polar ends and non-polar ends, which can help non-polar stuff (like oils) mix in water. But its claim to fame in the automotive and aircraft world is, that it is electrically non-conductive... and that is why it is sought after in cooling systems that contain water. It's anti corrosive properties are its benifit. This is especially important is systems that employ dis-similar metals... like that of some power train set-ups using aluminum with some cast iron elements.

I get 230ish ppms before my RODI, 0 after, think my RO filter is 10micron, but it's for fish stuff not me.

And that's just it... when you state "RO"... the "RO" process is what gives it the OK for human consumption.

RODI and chemical DI are very different processes... for different particulate requirements. One is fit for humans (and in your case, fish) and the other is not.

Got it. Thanks for clearing things up.