406 twin turbo breather/pcv ?
 

I fired my motor tonight for the first time. I have a -10 line off of each valve cover to a breather tank. The breather was blowing pretty bad. I was wondering, should I add a pcv also? The picture is my set up.

Daren

Is this a new engine or just a new combo for this car? How long did it run before it was smoking?

I ran the same (2) #10 lines to hidden remote Stef breather tanks. They came with a chrome breather cap which I exchanged for identical caps with a breather tube on them. I ran that 1/2" breather line to the base of the K&N filters (there was already a hole in them). What this does is pull any smoke vapors into the engine, eliminating the smoke and smell of open breathers.

With that said, they shouldn't smoke a lot, a little is normal when fully warmed up.



Jody

Congratulations! :thumbsup:

The motor and car are all new. It isn't real bad, but I will try your method with the other style breather. It will be after I figure out what is leaking oil from the rear of the block.

Daren

Post more pictures. Love the pictures.

Me too!
 

You beat me to this Topic, as I'm having similar problems. It's only blowing through the breathers under high rpm, but that's no big deal. The crankcase pressure is making it difficult to keep leaks from popping up.

What is the best way for PCV? I don't like the old-style Moroso set-ups but I need to do something aggressive about crankcase pressure. If oil's not blowing-through my oil-pan gasket, it's the end rails, then it's the timing cover. If I fix one spot, another pukes oil.

If I use tanks, where should I mount them? Do they need to constantly drain into the pan? Jody, where did you hide yours?

If using the exhaust system for vacuum, would that effect the O2 sensor? Should it source after the sensor?

Pros/Cons for electric vacuum pumps?

hard to see, but in the wheelwell area. They have breather caps and a 1/2" nipple fitting on them, where a hose runs into the air filter base to pull the vapors back in instead of smelling them when it's idling.

http://www.camcojb.com/temp/malitude 608.jpg

Jody

I posted some pics of my buddy Johns set up.

plenty of pics of the underhood at the link below

http://garagescene.net/gallery2/v/20...Racecraft+BBQ/

http://garagescene.net/gallery2/d/34...RR+BBQ+018.JPG

Jody

I am planning a TT 383.

Do you have one tank for each valve cover or do you only need one tank off one cover for the whole engine?

If I ran a return drain line back to the oilpan will it defeat the purpose of the PCV system?

Mal

Anybody.... :_paranoid


Mal

I run one tank per side. I do not run a pcv on a forced induction engine. A drain back to the pan is fine and eliminates having to drain the tank, but many like to get that cruddy milky oil out of the engine (take a look inside a breather tank sometime), so they keep it separate and drain periodically.

Jody

Thanks Jody,

Excuse my ignorance on the PCV, but I know now. I appreciate the help.

Mal

no ignorance involved, there are guys who keep pcv with forced induction. I've just found it as one more thing to go wrong, i.e. pulling oil into the intake system. I prefer a pair of good breather tanks.

Jody-

Do you think that two vents, routed to tanks, would reduce pressure enough to solve the gasket issues without some sort of vacuum?

Jody did you run a setup like this on your 406 Procharger motor to?

If two #10 lines to breather tanks don't solve a pressure issue, then there's a seal problem with the engine; i.e. rings, valves, etc. It works fine for a forced induction or n/a engine that is in good shape, but may not fix something that has bad leakdown numbers. That needs to be repaired first.

Jody

no, I made a spiral baffle that fit inside the Moroso stands and K/N breathers in the valve covers; the engine had good leakdown numbers and this was fine, never pushed any oil out of the breathers.

Okay,

I have been watching this post and learning as much as possible. I plan to run a single catch can with a -10 line running off the back of each valve cover into a single tank.

there is also a good thread from a 2007 that i saved talking about this same thing.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...d.php?t=395799


Look at post # 22
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...7&postcount=22

Jody - can you please add your wisdon to this I would really appreciate it.

I figured out my issue with too much pressure. Leak down is terrible, so I've got something wrong in the motor. I will tear it down here in a couple of weeks. Its got 120 miles and hasn't got any better.

Daren

well, I have re-thought the breather line from the tank to the air filters. Still think it's the way to go, but you'll need an oil separator tank inline between the oil tank and air filter, or the extreme pull under boost from the air filter will pull oil right into the engine. At least that's what happened to me on my Chevelle. For now I've gone back to the breather caps on the tanks that Stef came with, and have disconnected the lines from the tanks to the filters. I'm not smelling or seeing any vapors anyway. Ideally the breather tanks would be separator tanks, so that the vacuum pull from the filters could only pull pressure, not oil. The Stef tanks I have are not and it pulls straight oil through if hooked to the filters.

Thing is, I'm not pushing any oil into the tanks, I haven't had any oil to drain out yet; but the vacuum pull from boosted turbo air filters will pull the oil from the engine, through the tanks, and into the turbos which is the last thing you want on a forced induction build.

Jody

sorry to hear that Daren, but at least now you'll be able to get it corrected and enjoy the car.

Jody