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Project "Sleeper" - 69 Camaro Resto-Mod - updates
Well I finally decided I needed my own project thread rather than keep posting updates to my welcome thread:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=12701 For lack of a better project name, I chose "Sleeper" since I want to keep the stock look of my 69 Camaro but modernize it with more HP, better brakes, suspension etc. Obviously if you look closely you will notice it is not stock, but hopefully to the casual observer it will look like a stocker. I am still considering putting full Z/28 emblems on it and a 302 cowl decal just to throw one off further. Some pictures of the car: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...xterior003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...xterior002.jpg It is a 69 Camaro with the RS option with a cowl hood, automatic (700R4) and white interior. It has some z/28 Emblems that the previous owner had put on them. I was also told that it had a early 90s restoration done to it. I think the guy I bought the car from got it running again (bought it from a younger guy) and flipped it. I base this on the general state that the car was in (all the fluids hadn't been changed in a long time, radiator was just about rusted out etc). But that is okay, I was looking for something that had a really good body but needed an engine. I was still able to drive it home just fine, although it had some electrical and carb problems later and sat. Overall the goal is to do as much work myself as I possibly can, both to learn how to do it and for the challenge. I enrolled in a local JC and started taking automotive classes as I really hadn't done stuff like this before and really wanted to do it right. So it didn't take long for me to pull it apart anyways: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension000a.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...dEngine003.jpg |
Old engine and trans, and old tired 307 passenger block from a late 70s early 80s car and a 700R4 trans:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...dEngine008.jpg Originally the plan was just to build an engine for the car, but that snowballed (more about that later). So I started building a big block to drop in the car. It is a 454 GenV block I found at a junkyard (took 4 tries to get one without cracks in it). It is bored 030 over with a stroker crank making it 489ci (8.0L). So starting on the engine blue print, it is magna-fluxed, sonic tested. Mains, cylinder bores and deck are checked for straightness to get a baseline (pretty good but some machining is in order to make it perfect): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine001c.jpg All the machining is done by me in my engine machining class (except boring and honing they didn't have that machine at the time). Nice fresh block (with Por-15 engine paint on it; I just love this paint, you can hammer it and pour brake clean on it, doesn't phase it): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine001z.jpg Custom grinding was done on the top of the block for increased oil return and a screen kit is installed (case I grenade a valve it will save my bottom end): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine002.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine003.jpg |
Bottom end goes together:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine005.jpg All the main bearings are clearanced within .0001 of each other, for very even oil distribution. The goal is not so much max HP but a high HP build that will be very reliable. Brodix RR-O heads are purchased. Out of the box they have a horrible run-out on the valve seats (max of .009; when we want to see under .002 at least; ideal is under .0005). The guides are honed, valves are checked (they are really good less than .0005 run out on the valve face). Machining the valve seats is done and a run-out of under .0005 is attained. The heads are surfaced (the surface wasn't perfectly flat, plus wanted to raise the compression just a tad). http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine013b.jpg The intake and exhaust ports are ported and polished. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine013a.jpg The chambers are cleaned up and CC matched within 0.1 CC of each other. The heads are vacuum checked (20in of Vacuum they seal nice and tight). Should have a real nice and even compression ratio across all cylinders of 9.8:1: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine013c.jpg Cam goes in: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine015.jpg It is a Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. I went with the Thumpr as from my understanding a common weakness of a big block is it lack of exhaust breathing. My hope is that with the 107 deg lob separation and the increased exhaust duration that this will help correct some it. |
Pistons, rods and pins are all weighed and measured. One Piston was a bit out of spec but JE in Huntington Beach swapped it right out for me with a smile, even giving me one that allowed me to get my piston to cylinder wall clearances all within .0001 of each other.
Pistons are SRP forged, crank is a Eagle cast crank good for 750hp (since I am not building a high RPM motor should be good), rings are Perfect Circle moly and rods are I-Beam Eagle. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine018.jpg Pins are installed, rings are gapped, rod bearings clearance like the mains to .0001 of each other. Short block is together now: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine019.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine020.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine021.jpg Oil pump is a Moroso high volume with pickup and wind age tray. |
Heads go on, nice shot of the custom grinding both on the block and heads:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine023.jpg Verifying timing: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine024.jpg Intake is port matched to the heads and goes on. Full roller rockers (Comp Cams) with 1.7:1 ratio. Edelbrock RPM Air gap: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine026.jpg Valve and timing covers go on (Trans-dapt powder coated valve covers and GM stock timing cover for a GenV motor painted with left over Por-15): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine027.jpg Valve covers are crappy and leak and replaced later but the intake sure looks nice (durashine finish): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine028.jpg |
Water pump (Stewart Components Stage 2 pump) and MSD Distributor go in:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine030.jpg March performance pulleys for v-belt systems and Holly Street avenger 770cfm with air cleaner go on: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine031.jpg Hooker ceramic coated headers with 2” primaries and 3.5” collectors: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine032.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine033.jpg Finished product ready to start up: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine034.jpg |
After initialing firing up the motor on an engine stand, all the problems found were fixed (bad radiator cap, leaking valve covers, spark plug wire holders that let the wires hit the headers etc)
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine036.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine037.jpg Fast Air/Fuel meter and dual wideband O2 sensors are installed, along with Pypes Race-Pro mufflers (went with their 3” stainless exhaust kit as well): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Engine042.jpg More engine buildup pics here: http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...oweter/Engine/ General Stats for the engine Engine Type Big Block Chevy displacing 489ci / 8.0L (4.280 bore x 4.250 stroke) Block 454 Big Block Chevy GenV standard deck Compression Ratio 9.8:1 Oiling Moroso 6 quart oil pan Moroso high volume oil pump Moroso windage tray Custom machining done to top of block to increase oil return Rotating Assembly Eagle Rotating Assembly, Eagle cast crank, Forged SRP Pistons, Eagle I-Beam Rods, Perfect Circle Moly Rings, Clevite Tri-Armor Bearings Cylinder Heads Brodix Race-Rite Oval Port 270cc intake runner, 119cc Combustion chambers. Race valve job, Mini-ported, chambers matched and polished. Camshaft Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. Roller timing chain Valvetrain 2.250 inch intake / 1.880 exhaust valves 5/16" Comp Cams magnum push rods dual valve springs Induction Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold, Holly Street Avenger 770cfm, Aeromotive Street Rod electric fuel pump Ignition MSD 6AL box and Distributor with MSD 8.8 spark plug wires Exhaust Hooker ceramic coated headers 2 in primaries, 3.5 in collector. Pypes 3" stainless exhaust system with Race-pro mufflers Fastners ARP Gaskets Fel-Pro Cooling Ron Davis Double pass radiator with integrated coolant recovery tank, dual 13" spal fans and controller, Stewart Components Stage 2 high flow water pump, Robert Shaw thermostat, Earl's transmission cooler. Misc Tilton Super Starter, March Performance V-Belt system. Billet Specialties Valve covers, wire holders and breathers. Moroso battery relocation kit. Por-15 engine paint. Should be about 600hp and 600ft-lbs of torque at peak at the flywheel and about 500ft-lbs off idle! Special thanks to my school and instructor(s) for teaching me and letting me work on my car in the shop. Ready to put in the car now. But wait all the brakes and suspension stuff will be easier to work on while the motor is out… |
I can’t put this nice new engine in an engine compartment like this:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension000b.jpg So off the front clip it goes: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension000e.jpg Needs paint badly: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension000g.jpg [Bad pic] Once cleaned up and painted looks like new: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension000h.jpg |
Time to take a look at the front suspension and firewall, just about everything needed attention (new brakes, ball joints bushings etc)
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension004.jpg Lets pull the front sub-frame. It needed some minor welding to get it back in shape: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension005.jpg And start cleaning up the firewall: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension006.jpg Front clip back from the powder coaters: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension008.jpg |
Now we are cooking, fresh paint on the firewall and front sub-frame, and new goodies:
Touring Classics C5 kit with 12.7” rotors, AFX spindles Global West upper and lower control arms QA1 Double adjustable coil overs The Right Stuff Detailing stainless brake lines Hydroboost unit ATS Lee blueprinted steering box Baer Trackers New Moog inner tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm Thanks to Tyler at ATS for answering all my questions and setting me up with the goods. New Big block heater core cover, restored heater box, new heater fan etc. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension020.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension021.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension022.jpg More front suspension pictures: http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...%20Suspension/ Hmm, now I have to get new wheels and tires to fit the big brakes. Since I am going to have to buy new wheels anyways might as well mini-tub the car so I only have to buy wheels/tires once. That part of the project can be found here and was done up as a mini-tub guide: http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=427886 but here is some before and after shots: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...MiniTub001.jpg after: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ardSkin026.jpg |
Now to make the rear suspension match the front:
Old axle (2.72 open 10 bolt with mono-perches): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension014.jpg New Moser with 3.73 gears, 33-spline 1350 yoke, painted with Por-15 and their chassis black: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension022.jpg Starting the G-Bar install: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension023.jpg Bolts are in: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension025.jpg |
Going to weld the entire sucker in once everything is confirmed straight and true. I really like the G-Bar of all the stuff I have installed this was very easy and straight forward to install the only hiccup so far was a bolt hole in the rear of the bar that there isn’t a good way to drill a hole or start the threads:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension026.jpg due to the trunk being in the way (maybe particular to a 69, I dunno). Since in the end it is going to be all welded up, it really doesn’t matter. Axle housing / diff and shocks going on: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension029.jpg Completed: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension035.jpg Also went with a Rick’s notched stainless tank, that is baffled and sumped. More pictures can be found here: http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...%20Suspension/ Thanks to Frank and Prodigy for helping answer my questions and hooking me up with the right parts! Next up in the project (when I get back in school) is putting brake lines and fuel lines in and then I can drop the motor in. Very much looking forward to that. Then I am going to rewire the entire car with a AAW kit, and replace the old vacuum RS headlights with a DSE electric kit, get new head lights and running lights as well as rear taillights. All new Stewart Warner gauges will be installed as well. Everything electrical in the car will be in tip top shape. |
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers:
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Nice Project
I can't wait to see more.
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AWESOME build. Thanks for sharing the pics.
Kinda the same way I want to do my build as well. Sort of like a restomod. GOOD LUCK & keep the pics coming.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers: |
Looking great, what tran's are you running? Also did you do the brakes line yourself or are they prebent?
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Thanks for all the compliments. Yeah I think Resto-Mod applies.
Trans is currently a 700R4, but I have plans to build a 4L60E/4L80E and go with Twist machine paddle shifters. Brake lines and fuel lines are pre-bent stainless from The Right Stuff Detailing |
Progress
Awesome job on the engine and sub frame. How did you like the brake lines for fit? What coil overs did you use?
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Please keep us updated with progress pics.
GOOD JOB!!:thumbsup: |
Seems like a nice project overall.
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Some quick updates:
Been chasing my tail trying to wrap up all the little things:
Still need to dyno the 700R4 that the car came with, see what state it is in. If it is okay, I'll try to get the car running with the 700R4 until I can build my 4L80E in the transmission class in the spring. Otherwise I'll wait until next summer to get the car running if the 700R4 is shot. Still got to redo all the electrical (and gauges) in the entire car so I'll have something to do in any event. Here is a couple pics of the car ready for the engine: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...rEngine001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...rEngine003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...rEngine006.jpg I have the car set at minimum ride height right now. I'll see where it sits with the motor and clip on and how much clearance I have. Right now its nice and low in the rear, should be interesting. New Wheels should be coming late next week. Should have a nice picture of the engine in with new wheels soon :jump: |
What wheels did you decide to go with? Did you ever make it over to the Rushforth booth at the "cruise for a cure?"
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Went with Strutters in 17x8 for the front 17x12 in the rear, hidden hardware, polished lip, smoked titanium centers (such a sweet finish), and Michelin PS/2 245/45/17 and 335/35/17s in the rear. Jon says I should be able to pick them up late next week, can't wait! |
Oh, I did not know that was you. I think Jason was showing you what the lip for your rears would look like on my Camaro. I was hiding in the back trying to sneak in a few:cheers:. You are going to be real happy with your choice. The quality of the Rushforth line is top notch. Cant wait to see pics.:thumbsup:
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Just read the entire build thread for the first time. Sweet work here man. It's a rough categorical world when a mini-tubbed camaro with a g-bar rear, Global west uppers and lowers, and QA1's with 17x13 rear wheels is stuffed into a Resto-Mod category.
I for one think its all a matter of opinion. Anyway.... Thanks again Ed for choosing our wheel brand. We're working hard to finish yours up by the 31st. I'll be in touch as soon as they are ready to go! :thumbsup: If for some reason the wheel build goes into SEMA week, someone will still be at the shop, holding down fort, and we'll get you squared away just as soon as the wheels can be picked up. We'll talk late next week. Thanks for keeping us updated on your car, and keep up the good work! :lateral: |
Real nice build. I know you'll like the wheels. I love mine.
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Really looking forward to getting a picture of the Rushforths on the car with the engine in and the front clip still off. I think I might just try to submit that picture to a few magazines. :unibrow: Quote:
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Quick update - Hooked my 700R4 that came with the car to the trans dyno:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ansDyno001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ansDyno007.jpg All the pressures are within spec, engine shifts and downshifts; trans is in pretty good shape (least until it takes some big block torque). Going to put a filter in it and its needs a pan gasket bad. Trans ready for the engine: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install002.jpg Trans should work until I can build/afford something else (current plans are to build a 4L80E with paddle shifters). Pulled the engine off the stand: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install007.jpg Put the beater Chinese valve covers back on that I couldn't get to seal (I do like the Chevy Orange). Bolted up to the trans: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install013.jpg Went to try to bolt up the torque converter to the engine flex-plate, found out that the big block flex plate won't mount to the 700R4 torque converter. I guess GM makes a conversion flex-plate but its a special order and will take a few days to arrive. Now I'm stuck, waiting on brakes, wheels and a flex-plate. Ah the little things of getting a project on the road. Oh well time to drive in axle seals, and adjust hood and trunk a bit while I wait. |
It looks good your getting close.
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Quick update. The 700R4 I have is a 27 spline unit, looks like from a 4/6 cylinder. Not even really sure why the bell-housing bolts up (the guts from a 4 cylinder in a 8 cylinder case / spare parts transmission maybe?). Not much point in trying to get the torque converter to bolt up as I'd probably break it after getting on it a time or two.
I had hoped maybe to build a transmission in the next transmission class but the class time is in the afternoon when I work. So either I wait an entire another year or I need to buy a transmission. Currently looking the feasibility of a Twist machine 4L65E RR or perhaps a 4L80E for 800 ft/lbs setup. Here are some pics: Put the anti-squeek kit in for the gas tank straps (and between body and tank): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...on/GasTank.jpg Boy these suckers are tight to fit in, used some 3M weather strip adhesive to hold things in place and a lot of elbow grease to wrestle the straps on enough to get the retaining nut on. Motor going in: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install021.jpg Dropped in: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install023.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install024.jpg Valiant shown in background getting a new 6 cylinder motor - that red thing shown to the left. Its a nice car, the suspension and brakes have been redone as well (stock). Not my car; just another shop project. Got some issues with oil pan to cross-member clearance. Oil pan is resting on the cross-member. Raised the motor and put a 1/2 piece of plywood down to smush the pan a bit, that got me about 1/8" clearance, really hoping for 1/4". So going to raise the motor and beat the dickens out of the bottom of the pan. Also realized I should have laid the headers in as they really don't want to fit especially on the drivers side. |
Looking good.
Hope you get your problems resolved.:thumbsup: |
Thanks.
Fixed the oil pan clearance issue today (I think) have about 1/4-1/2 of clearance now. Went to try to put on the transmission cross-member but the 700R4 is back about 2-3 inches and I can't get the cross member to bolt up to the sub-frame. Not really planning on using this trans so not sweating this too much. Put the headers in: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install029.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install026.jpg Odd part is I changed my frame and engine mounts out to big block, and even went with a slimmer Lee 670 steering box and the Hooker headers that Holly recommended should fit without taking a beating. Called Holly and said not to use any heat due to the ceramic coating. Well time to pull out the BF hammer. |
Looking good.:thumbsup:
A little tight though?? How did you get the oil pan to clear? |
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On the pan I kept lowering the motor onto a piece of plywood placed on the frame. I also jacked up the transmission which squeezed the oil pan together with the cross member. |
I'm not a huge camaro fan but i like yours you kept it all clean and simple keep up the good work.
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---------- Had to beat on the headers in three different places to get it to sit all the way on the mounts so that I could get bolts in them: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install032.jpg Least now it fits (more than 1/4 clearance) and I have the mount bolts in. Now to figure out the transmission and assembly moving forward. |
Out with the skinny tires and in with the fat ones
Special thanks to Jon at Driverzinc for setting me up with Rushforth Strutters and Michellin Pilot Sport 2s - 245/45/17 on 17x8 in the front and 335/35/17 on 17x12s in the rear. Hidden hardware, polished lip and their now famous Titanium powder coat over a brushed center:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Wheels013.jpg Hard to see the powder coated centers from the pictures but it is a nice and subtle effect (next to the polished lip), really like the look: http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Wheels020.jpg I love that from the side you can't really see the wide tires and that the lip doesn't give them away. But from a different angle the size of the tires pops out at you: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install038.jpg Now I got the engine mostly in, and my wheels and tires, the car is actually looking like a hot rod. Really excited all coming together: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Install041.jpg http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Wheels029.jpg ------- On another note, figured out what I am going to do for a trans, talked to Steve at Twist Machine and Mark at Bowler transmissions (both very nice and put up with all my questions). Ordered a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters. Went with the 65 instead of an 80 since Mark told me they would upgrade me to the 80 if I broke the 65, can't beat that kind of guarantee. Next up, gotta figure out my power steering pulley, ends up March Performance 2 groove power steering pulley doesn't work with their bracket, got to order a 1 groove pulley (otherwise can't adjust the tension) Going to try to get all the engine related fitment fixed then put the front clip back on. |
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