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Finally!!!
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Well after a VERY long night I managed to get the car stripped down to the shell and onto the rotisserie!! After I clean up the garage a bit I can start cleaning and prepping the bottom for paint as well as some finish welding...then it's body and paint time!!
Some may remember that in June I hired a bodyman to do the car, well he turned out to be a flake and the work he did do wasn't acceptable...so I sanded it all back down and will do it myself. I pride myself on learning from others mistakes...sorry Jody I let that lesson slip by!! ;) Man, after well over three years (off and on) of metal work, I can't beleive paint is just around the corner!! |
Looks good! :thumbsup: Did you buy or build your rotisserie?
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I built it using a mag article jp sent me, it's the same plan he used for II Much's rotator. With todays steel prices I have around $400 invested, and that includes the rams and casters...better than spending twice that if not more on ebay, and I had fun building it!! :thumbsup:
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Congrats on making it to this step! What are you planning on doing to the bottom of the car? (paint, bed liner, color choice, etc)
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Good deal Anthony. Would have been nice if you would have learned from my drama, but where's the fun in that? :unibrow:
Jody |
Congrats, it just gets better now!
SW |
Lookin good. That rotisserie will make a suck job (floorpan prep) almost enjoyable. I'm jealous. Lookin' forward to seeing some paint. Keep the pix coming.
/Steevo |
Anthony
Can you post the plans and material list for the rotisserie? That would be way cool. Congrats on the progress. I went to y body man and was disapointed once again with progress. I'm gonna snatch it soon if he don't get on his horse and ride. :mad: |
lookin good so far. look forward to seeing the progress!
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Thanks Guys!!
Scott, I plan on painting the bottom and inner floor with POR15, I think it will withstand rock chips better than conventional paint and help with rustproofing at the same time. I'll use their simi-gloss black. I'll do all sound deadening on the inside of the car...I just prefer a fully detailed and painted underside over the bed liner look...but that's just what I like!! ;) Steevo, it did make burning off the undercoating today...well fun!! It only took four hours to get it ready to prep for paint...the only way to fly!! :thumbsup: Jim, here's the rotisserie plans Sorry to hear you are having painter trouble too!! |
Cool to know your making good progress.
Mike |
Cool Anthony. I'm sure progress willl move along quickly now. :thumbsup:
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Nice lookin' rotator!
Anthony,
That's a mighty fine looking body rotator you got there. Nicely done. The car looks good too. As Steve says, keep us all up to date. jp |
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Yeah, I've heard the same stories, but I think the guys that had trouble didn't use the entire system all the way threw. I do know you just can't paint it on to shinny bare metal without using their metal prep first.
The more I clean the underside, the more I'm considering just painting it and not using POR 15...after all this is a rust free car...well a little light surface rust but no real issues...using POR 15 was more of a preventitive plan. I know this has been covered, but what do you guys think of body color (blue or silver) on the underside w/ black frame and suspension components? This isn't a daily driver so road grime shouldn't be too much of an issue. Besides I want the engine bay body color anyways and this would help with the fire wall to underside transition (body color to black). |
Painting the underside
I painted the underside of II Much with etching primer, then epoxy primer, then single stage gray (was going for an industrial/racing look ... but the paint came out too shiny for industrial). It took me about 10 days from start to finish and the finish is very tough and durable. No POR 15 needed, and it is a good way to accent standard black suspension components.
It's also a good way to practice painting without it having to be perfect. jp |
Looks Great Anthony! I am nearly at the same point as you, hoping to go to media blast in the next few weeks. Keep the photos coming!
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Anthony....I've had problems with POR-15, and I used the Metal Ready on all my parts. As it stands now I have to have my frame media-blasted again because moisture must have went through the coating and started rusting the frame again. You can see the rust coming through. If you want I could head out to the garage tonight and do a macro snapshot with my digi-cam to show you the areas of concern. When I contacted POR-15 with this problem, all they could do was shrug and ask if I wanted the can replaced. They would not refund my money.
Hate to slam a company in Scotts crib here but I feel you deserve to know other peoples experience with the product. I'm redoing the frame similar to the process Parsons outlined next Spring. Good luck. |
Thanks Guys for the info!! I've decided not to risk it with POR-15, time and money are way to valuable at this point, I'll just use a good etching primer and go from there.
Thanks again jp for the rotisserie plans, I couldn't have done it without you!! :thumbsup: Tony, pics are not nessary, but thanks for the offer!! I agree bad mouthing products isn't the most fun, but when this much is at steak we need to share our experiances...thanks for being honest!! Ok, back out to the garage for more sanding!!! :thumbsup: |
I think POR15 would work much better with no prep at all. I POR'd my floorboard and later when I pulled the frame I noticed just a small speck of POR15 had leaked through a hole. This stuff bonded though dirt and slight rust. Finish is rough as hell but it ain't going nowhere.
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I used POR-15 on my frame and on my control arms. The stuff is as hard as a rock! The frame and all the parts were sandblasted and epoxy primed first. Nice rotator you have there, my body is going up on one soon.
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I used POR 15 on the underside, subframe etc of our '67. I had the metal shiny clean, sanded with 80 grit as final step,then Marine Clean thoroughly, then Metal Ready scuffed with scotchbrite, thorough rinse and dry. End result is outstanding, did it a year ago. Did 2 coats of POR 15. Very tough durable finish.
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I have had similar experiences w/POR-15, if the part to be coated is rough and rusty, the stuff bonds with it like crazy, but on smooth clean metal, it can be made to peel off. It really is designed for bonding with rusty surfaces, the rougher and rusty-er, the better. Maybe someone from POR-15 can weigh in with a better explanation of why it behaves the way it does...
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