|
Project Fool's Gold
Well guys it has been a while coming since I work by myself and at a leasurely pace, but I'm finally getting far enough along to introduce this project. Most of my time has been spent waiting on parts to arrive, some took a few days while some took as much as six months (LD 3-link).
It's a 72 Camaro which I've named Fool's Gold due to color and I'm pretty foolish on this one budget wise I guess you could say. Here's what I started with, just a hull that was very solid I picked up for 1K. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture003.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture005.jpg It's pretty solid, only had one repaint (maaco by the look and thickness of it) and very little patching needed in the floor or elsewhere. I hired Carter Hickman to do a rendering for me and can't say enough nice things about him. The rendering will be very close to the finished product with some slight massageing to the stripe and maybe a few other small things that I've rethought. Here is the final rendering comp from Carter. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...nal_small2.jpg I started by sandblasting the floor sections inside and out along with the wheelwells. I then did the few floor patches and installed the DSE mini-tubs. You can see the install in detail here http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...ni-tub+install After the mini-tub I installed the Lateral Dynamics 3-link. Please excuse the qaulity of the pics I've been shooting with no flash or tri-pod I promise to do better LOL. Tommy |
Here are a few pics of the LD 3-link install.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0100.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0103.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...install002.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...install003.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...install012.jpg Tommy |
|
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...install038.jpg
After welding in the crossmembers I had to build the close out for the center link from scratch. The reason was that Mark R&Ded the unit on a 70 model which they have a flat straight divider between the trunk and rear seat. The 71 up models are stamped different in this area and have a vapor canister mounted there. Once this was done I mocked up the rear suspension and found that the lower links hit the frame rails before reaching full compression. So after getting a hold of Mark I found out it was designed for the frame to be notched. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build003.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build002.jpg It made me a little nervous cutting this large of a section out of the rail at the radius point so I cut a piece of 1/4" steel in the shape of the radius and welded it to the uncut side. It runs from thr top of the radius down to the bottom of the rail and 1 inch past the cut on each side. This should give it plenty of stiffening and support. Also the right angle cut outs were done with 1/8" angle. Once all of this was done I mocked up the rear suspension one last time to check clearances during articulation. I also mocked up the backing plates for the Kore3 kit which adapts C6 Z06 rear brakes with parking brake to the 9" Ford rear. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build014.jpg These parts from Kore3 are absolutely beautiful! CNC machined backing plates and all brackets and hardware are gold cad plate. You CANNOT beat the service from Tobin at Kore3 and the parts are flawless and worth the price in my opinion. As you can see the Strange axles were also mocked up for the measurements to be taken for the wheel backspace. It will be an 18x12 with a 5 5/8 backspace. I narrowed the rear 4" from stock width so the rear would have a deep lip on the wheel for killer looks. I'm using aftermarket Racing Brake brand 2 piece rotors all around for this project and the rears have a cast iron hat instead of aluminum like the front for the parking brake. The drum section on the rear rotors is slightly deeper than stock C6 Z06 so.110 had to be milled from the lip on the backing plates for clearance. If you use stock rotors then Tobins kit is spot on. Luckily I have a friend which I've known since first grade who owns and operates a machine shop so I can use a mill or lathe when I need to. Tommy |
Here is the rear all mocked up.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build010.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build008.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build009.jpg Next up I moved on to fitting the sub-frame and powertrain along with the DSE frame connectors. I fitted the DSE sub to the body with solid bushings also from DSE and sqaured it. Once this was done with the shell off the rotiserie the frame connector installation was a breeze. I installed them completely except for welding them to the sub-frame itself. that way I could break it all back down for blasting and paint. The frame will be welded to the connectors later after the priming and finishing of the bottom of the shell. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build039.jpg Once this was done I decided to mock up the engine and transmission to the car. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build022.jpg Tommy |
At this point I discovered I had a few problems. The trans would only go high enough for a 4.5 degree driveline angle before hitting the tunnel. This was too much so I decide to cut the tunnel and fab a new one.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build017.jpg Boy did this snowball in a hurry. My tunnel had been cut already for a 4 speed conversion by one of the previous owners and it looked as if they did it with a hatchet so cutting and refabbing a tunnel didn't bother me. The problem is that almost no one has used this frame and an LS in a second gen. but DSE, The Dale Jr. car used a t56 so I figured that was the reason for modifying the tunnel. After close inspection of the photos on their site and a phone call to DSE I discovered they also had to modify their 70 test car for the Tremec. No big deal right! Well after studying the photos on their site and looking at the parts mocked up on my shell I decided the only way to obtain maximum exhaust clearance with this low of a ride hieght was to also build a crossmember into the body as DSE had done. I started with a piece of 1.5x3 sqaure tubeing with 1/8" wall. I then cut the floor out to accept it between the rockers while also using doubler plates at the rockers for more strength. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build026.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build025.jpg At this point I did not have access to anything that would mandrel bend a sqaure tube so I built the center from 1/8" plate. First I cut the sides, then welded ribs every 2 inches. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build030.jpg Then I fitted and welded this to the main tube. The next step was to cover the top and bottom by welding a strip of 1/8 plate on both, it was also plug welded to the ribs for strength and stiffness. I left the top open as once the unit was welded in the car I would machine a collar from solid stock to provide access to the shifter and weld it in after cutting out the top. On the bottom I used 1/4"x2" angle with 2 holes drilled and nuts welded to fab legs for the actual transmission crossmember. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build034.jpg Tommy |
After welding this assembly into the car I machined the collar and welded it in along with fabbing a new tunnel.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build037.jpg This was the finished result. On the bottom I took a piece of 1.5" dom tubing with 1/8" wall and milled a slot in each end. I then machined two pieces of 1/4" plate with holes to match the legs on the crossmember and welded those in the ends of the tube. The final step was machining a tab with slots out of 1/4" plate for the trans mount and fitting it all together in place and welding it up. This made a crossmember about nine inches long to hold the trans and except for it protruding down ( but not lower than the frame ) I have exhaust clearance all the way up to the floors on each side with no crossmember in the way. This was a design from my own head combining what DSE did with their test car and the Dale Jr. car. Now I can finally send the shell off to the media blaster this week and start on the topside WOOT! The frame, rear housing and suspension parts will also go for paint and powdercoat this week. Maybe this thing will pick up some momentum finally. Another note: The reason for all of the tunnel mods etc. is because the DSE mounts for the LS based engine set it back a little over 2 inches from the stock small block position. This shoves the trans deeper into the tunnel and requires raising it. I have about 1 inch of space between the firewall and the right head on the engine. This set back along with the lightwieght all aluminum LS should do wonders for the cars wieght balance. I know I'm not the best fabricator by a long shot, especially compared with a lot that I see here. At least I'm trying, learning, and have pride in doing it myself so maybe no one will make too much fun of my work. Tommy |
after looking at the rendering again it got wondering ifyour gonna run flat lip rims like in the rendering or the new step lip version they now have?
|
I'll be running the flat lip Forgelines. I ordered them from Frank at the end of September, so they should be here soon.
Tommy :) |
Great looking project !! Should drive like it's glued to the road. Any more pics ??
Paul |
New progress
Finally I got around to taking a few more pics today. This is the body as it left my garage.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0067.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build036.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build035.jpg After blasting and a coat of PPG DP50 I carried it to my friends Brad and Shane at Thunder Vally Customs. They have sanded the bottom side as well as wiping some welding pin holes and seam sealing the weld joints. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0073.jpg The trunk floor will get some modification to help clear the exhaust as well as patch a few thin spots next. I'm using a Rick's stainless tank which I had built 1" deeper than stock as well as 2" wider. The front corners of the tank are clipped at an angle to provide exhaust clearance also. I'll get some pics of the tank once the trunk floor is done and it's mocked up. |
The only rust problems were between the door opening and wheel opening which is common on these cars. We are patching these areas.
Right side http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0068.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0069.jpg firewall being prepped for smoothing, the holes were welded up on the left and wiped, still need to be finished and sanded. The lip between the cowl and firewall was cut off and the cowl smoothed up with a wipe. The right side has had all holes dressed down and prepped for a filler plate to be attached when we drop it off the rotisserie. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0078.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0080.jpg The qaurters look great except for the small patches shown above. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0074.jpg The sad news that really pi$$es me off is that the blaster screwed me! Evidently he let a new guy with no experience blast the car and consequently damaged my smooth roof with no filler in it. Now the roof feels like a washboard from being shrunk and stretched in different areas. After two nights of lying awake thinking about it and haveing a long pow wow with my body men we've decided that with the caliber of this build that wiping 20pounds of filler in the roof just will not cut it. I ordered one of the new Dynacorn second gen. roof skins today from NPD. Less labor and a better repair overall it just gripes my a$$ though that they did this. |
Well I finished tearing down the 07 LS2 last night to the bare block and got it ready for the machine shop once all parts are here. The pistons, rods, bearings, and rings arrived today.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0081.jpg The crank should drop ship from Callies next week and I'll be ready to machine and build the bottom end. |
Motor jewelry:thumbsup:
|
Topless
I went by Thunder Valley Tuesday afternoon and got to help Brad swap the bad roof skin that the blaster messed up. They shrunk and stetched different areas of the roof when blasting and made the surface like a washboard. The skin wasn't as bad to change as what I thought it would be. The front windshield area and the rear window area are spot welded, as well as at the qaurters. The rails above the side windows are wrapped and pinched just like a door skin. So all in all not too bad, the worst part is that the inner skin is glued to the outer every sqaure foot with a big dollop of seam sealer. You need some very long pry bars and a hammer and you can tap the outer loose from each dollop and it comes off, this is the step that takes patience and care so not to damage the inner.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_00920001.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_00960005.jpg New skin trimmed and in position. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_00970006.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_00980007.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_00990008.jpg It took about 3 hours to do this with two of us but the welding still needed to be done so figure a couple more hours for that and finishing. More to come soon. |
Project is looking good !! Other than finishing roof, and trunk is there much to do before painting?
Paul |
Quote:
|
The roof looks good. Thats sucks they screwed it. Do you know when it will be in color.
|
Hopefully by early to mid summer. It depends on the parts suppliers. Some things have taken up to 7 months to obtain while other suppliers have shipped the wrong items even after multiple e-mails and calls. I think I'm jinxed when it comes to obtaining correct parts in a timely fashion. I waited two months for the crankshaft and when it arrived it had the wrong reluctor ring, after 5 e-mails and 4 phone calls Geez! The only good luck I've had with parts so far have been through Frank at prodigy and DSE, both are great to deal with.
|
look's good Tommy.To bad you had to install the new roof,you know there won't be any rust jumping out of there later.
If it's not in the paint shop in May we would like to see it when we come up for David and Tammy's event. |
Sounds good Wayne it'll be good to see ya'll again.
|
Back on the wheels for final mock-up!
Well it's been a while but myself and the guys over at Thunder Valley have been busy on the car. A lot of what's been done doesn't really show but took hours to do. The trunk pan where it drops down in the center was sectioned to make it narrower for better exhaust clearance then but welded back in and worked. The doors are off it right now to help ease putting the roll bar in but they have been skinned, late model door handles grafted in and fitted. The deck lid and rear spoiler have also been fitted and all panels gapped and blocked twice. The rear housing and links were powdercoated and the center section painted with red DP. Then Shane at Thunder Valley assembled the rear with the new Racing Brake rotors and Tobin of Kore3's kit to adapt C6 Z06 brakes with parking brake. Once this was done the 3-link was put back in the car for final mock-up assembly.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...build009-1.jpg While that was being done I assembled the DSE sub-frame which had been powdercoated and some of the bits painted for color contrast and eye appeal and we installed it complete minus brakes and welding. It will be welded to the DSE sub-frame connectors after painting the bottom during actual final assembly. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...build014-1.jpg I narrowed the rear just a little too much. It should have been right according to my measurements and math but we all know how that doesn't always translate properly to the vehicle in the real world. Since I already have the maximum outer lip on the wheels and don't want to narrow them I'll be running a 1/2" spacer on the back wheels which my buddy the machinist will make to match the hub of the wheel and I'll powdercoat. That way it will blend in and not be noticed. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...build010-1.jpg Also notice the Rick's tank is held in with ratchet straps. Rick's sent straps for a first gen. by mistake and we are awaiting the replacements, hopefully they will be in this week. This is how the car sits now while fitting the DSE roll bar. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build001.jpg And I can't resist a picture of the rear wheel and brake combo. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/build011.jpg The engine block will be ready for pick up tommorrow from the machinist so I should get started building the engine this weekend. Once that is done I will bring the car to the house to install the engine trans combo. Then the car will go to a local guy who is very well known for the headers and exhaust to be built. After that myself and Sam Freeman will be mocking up and roughing in the custom interior and then back to Thunder Valley to fit the front clip. once it's all fitted we will blow it apart for the last time for paint and final assembly. If you happen to notice I didn't shave the marker lights the same as the rendering. It's one of those as you go changes. After seeing Jesse Greenings black second gen. SEMA car I called him and had a talk about the custom flush markers he used on that car. He agreed to make another set for me with the trim rings and Brad has massged the openings to accept them. Just one of the small subtle changes that I hope will make this car different and set it apart. |
What a cool build! Love it :thumbsup:
You did almost all of it yourself ?? |
kick azz tommy!!!!!!!!!!
those front rollers look HUGE in that shot! |
Looks great I'm just shocked you got the car for a grand around here they are a lot more then that for a rust bucket.
|
Quote:
Almost, in the last month I have turned the guys at Thunder Valley Customs in White, Ga. loose on the final body repair and paint prep. I shy away from outer body work due to the fact I'm too damn picky. I tend to overwork an area, these guys are excellent at what they do and it has helped to make up for time I lost waiting on parts last year. All of the floor repairs, suspension install and welding were done by myself. I also lend a hand with things like the roof swap so that I can stay hands on with it as much as possible. Some things like finish body work I'm better to back away and know my limits of both skill and patience. Big thanks also go to people like Frank at Prodigy for help on obtaining parts, and Mark at DSE for putting up with all of my phone calls and questions. You guys are great and I really appreciate the help. |
How cool is this car going to be?
You are really moving on this thing. I cannot wait to see it finished!
|
SHE'S LOOKIN REAL GOOD...AWESOME WORK!!!:thumbsup:
|
Just stumbled on this thread, this is a kick ass 2nd gen. Nice work! :thumbsup:
|
Where did you get those break rotors? Are they stock replacement?
This is going to be one killer ride.:bow: |
Great job Tommy.I own a 72 Camaro too, so Im watching your build with great interest. Thats gonna be one SHARP Camaro! :thumbsup:
|
Quote:
I read on a couple of the corvette forums that the stock Z06 front rotors were cracking and giving trouble when used for multiple track days. Most said it is because the vains are backward on one side. Chevrolet uses the same rotor on both sides drilled with a left and right pattern for the holes but the internal vains run in the same direction on both so one is actually running backwards. Since I intend to do a good bit of track time I upgraded the front rotors to these and figured I would get the rears for both asthetics and a better rotor. Whew!!!!! them things weren't cheap though. |
Looks awesome Tommy,thanks for the updates...:thumbsup:
|
Great project!! :thumbsup:
|
What a great project...:thumbsup:
|
Well Done Tommy,Cool machine!
|
Engine assembled
I finished assembling the Ls2 Stroker today finally. Chasing small parts took time, the engine came from an '07 vette with 80 miles on it. The owner swapped to an LS7 and in the process they canibalized several things from this engine to convert the 7 over to a wet sump oiling system. Those were the things I've had to figure out and get during assembly.
Hopefully this engine will push hard at 600hp if not exceed it. The crankshaft is a 4" stroker Callies Dragonslayer. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0130-2.jpg It was installed using Federal Mogul main bearings and ARP stud kit with 12pt nuts. The rods are Callies Compstar with ARP 2000 rod bolts and were installed with Clevite 77 bearings which are polydyne coated. This crank has a 2" crankpin rather than the standard 2.100" so that notching the block is not neccessary. I'm also using the 58x reluctor and 4X cam gear since these are supposed to allow for smoother and more exact ignition tuning. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0131-2.jpg The block was decked so that the pistons are .010 above the deck. The LS2 factory pistons are usually .007 out and when it was mocked up after honing with torque plates for the new pistons they were .004 below the deck. So I had the machine shop cut .014 from the deck surfaces. This should give me 11:1 compression assembled with the heads I chose. The pistons are Wiesco -8cc dish coated and the rings are perfect circle, chrome moly top, napier second, and a support rail on the oil ring since the pin gets into that ring land. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0134-1.jpg The cam is a comp cams grind, special ground for me from specs given by Vengeance racing here in Atlanta. Lift is 620 int. and 625 exhaust, duration is in the 230 and 240's range. The cam chain is C5R and the oil pump is a GMPP high volume. The heads I chose are Trick Fow Specialties 225 CNC with 65cc chambers. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0137.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/DSC_0139.jpg Heads were installed with ARP studs and 12pt nuts. The gaskets are GM 6.0 3 layer MLS type. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0140-2.jpg I finished up with Comp lifters, Trick Flow push rods and Yella Terra shaft type rockers. The damper will be an ATS which I only have the hub on in the pics. It goes with the Vintage Air front runner which is black anodized. I installed the factory valve covers for now since the engine is going in the car for final mock up and header fabrication. They will be replaced with a set of Katech covers and coil relocation brackets during final car assembly. That is when the intake, injectors and Fast fuel rails will also be installed. The intake is a Fast 92mm ported by Vengeance and the throttle body is the stock fly by wire 90mm also ported by vengeance. The oil pan is 4th gen. f-body with an improved racing trap door baffle installed. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0147-1.jpg http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC_0145-2.jpg Hopefully I'll get the flywheel, clutch assmbly, bellhousing and trans mounted and the entire unit slid in the car this week. We'll see, keep your fingers crossed for me. |
Awesome motor Tommy!! I just love what can be done with the LS motors...big power n/a!!!
|
Damn Tommy, you sir have some incredible talent and taste. I love the build of your car. Thank you for sharing it. I am taking notes as I just took delivery of a 1970 that will need some help, but I look forward to working on it.
|
Great looking project! :thumbsup:
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:45 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net