Welding Table
 

Hi all !

Over Christmas and New Years I started thinking about a welding table design that I could build. I searched the web for pics and ideas and found some interesting ideas. Just wondering if anyone here that uses a table often has some additional ideas or preferences they might like to add. Post your pics, ideas and comments !

I'm looking to build a 36 x 36 with a 1/2 thick top. 4 square legs (2 or 2.5) with levelers. Square or round tube cross supports.

C clamp and Vise Grip hangar rail(s) on the left side.

I plan to have a hole grid pattern waterjet'd on the top so I can thread the holes to mount hold-down jigs, tooling and clamps.

I liked the ability to bolt down accessories (vise, grinder, hanger dolly stand, etc) to the table with a standard size mounting plate. Maybe even a shelf under the table to place the accessories out of the way while not used.

Hangers/holders on the right side (I'm correct handed) for the torch to hang and welding pliers, etc.

Electrical main cable with a couple outlets.

Miller even has a 12 x 12 opening in their top that allows installation of a torch/plasma cutoff area and includes replaceable cross bars. There is a removable catch tray under that area to dump the junk.

Basically a smaller table for a garage dog that provides lots of versatility needed in a home hobby shop.

Here's some pics of the nicer one's I've seen.

Jim

Some accessories.

Once I get mine designed - I'll post the plans and a materials list for those interested.

There is NO ONE RIGHT TABLE.... ever....

It's never big enough - or tall enough - or low enough... :rofl:

Mine is 4' X 6' - 1/2" thick top... with threaded holes for mounting "stuff" - like 90 degree blocks etc. I also plug welded a angle iron piece at one end - PERFECTLY SQUARE - and etched a line in the middle. The plug welding allows me to pull or push a tape measure.

I would only add that - you need POWER to the table somewhere -- and AIR... from overhead. Also - I would not make it too fancy as far as the top goes... many times I tack things to the table... and grind the tack off when finished. T slots belong on milling machines etc... I would constantly be dropping tungstens in there and screws and nuts etc - that would really pee me off...

STRONG and FLAT and unshakable is a good attribute! Storage under it is also good.... I took the wheels off my first Sears Craftsman 3 drawer tool box - and stuck it under my table. It now stores the consumables.. gloves... boxes of ss wire brushes etc that I use constantly when welding etc.

I have a separate cutting - bending - banging - dirty - nasty table.... made from grates I bought at Boeing surplus... the "stuff" all falls down - and I can use it for spray painting small parts etc... I don't want to get paint on my good table - as this would then hamper my "ground"...

Cool idea. How big is it?

I personally love the first blue leg with big azz Wilton (the ONLY vise to own) design... I like the kick-out for the vise.. and it has power down a leg and the top is killer and the leg design is sturdy without being ridiculous. I never have an opinion either...

When looking at some of the others - there are a couple that are all top and no legs - and one that is all legs and no top... and one that looks like swiss cheese... letting everything fall thru that can... and if you welded to it - the threads will get bunged up... ditto if you hammer on it... and you need to be able to pound on a table like this. You try dragging or schunching (a made up word) a rear end or heavy part on a table like that - the holes will scratch it or hang it up - and the part will damage the threads...

I don't like a "back" on a table like this... it will, at some point, interfere with what you're working on... you need to be able to move pieces in all directions - and they have to be able to hang over in all directions.

Great info G !

Have you seen the table Jesse James has ?? OMG ! $10,000 just for the table - and he's spent more then that for all his jigs/fixtures/clamps and such.

Jim

It's 3' X 3'.... The grates are made out of 3/8" X 2" and are 1' X 3' --- so I bought 3 of them and made a square table out of it...

So get this --- I paid $5 (FIVE DOLLARS) for each grate... they weigh 120 POUNDS each and were brand spanking new. I think I could have scrapped them and made money! I'll post up a picture.

Yes - but he's earning a living using it -- we're not. :rofl:

THAT's why we like you !

Boy, it would be nice to have a 3D model of that beast!!!!!!!!! Hmmmmmmm.

Or you could use an old school desk and a pice of sheet metal like I do! :unibrow:

Here's my CUTTING TABLE made from the surplus grates:

I made it to fit just under the side door on my blast cabinet - that way I can use it to load or unload on -- and it's on wheels so I can pull it out to use it anywhere in the shop.


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7655.jpg


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7657.jpg


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7658.jpg

HMMMM...."CAN I BORROW THAT TOO:lol: :lol: "

This is the welding/work table I made from a 1/2" sheet of steel... I added the "square post" at one end so I could drop some power there - and then later added the "peg board" cantilevered out so I could hang some "stuff" on... it keeps most of the table clear and I haven't run into any interference problems "yet". I use the POST for spools of wire storage and to 'stick' various vise jaw cushions to etc.

I mounted my Beverly shear to one leg ---- and on the other end - mounted my braided steel cutting saw...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7662.jpg


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7661.jpg


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7669.jpg

Chris (Youthpastor) ----- What's mine is yours buddy!! :willy: :hail: :lol:

Made this "clamp" holder from some square tubing... and it hangs down from the ceiling... I find hanging them overhead --- is easier for me to find the one I want - than when I had them down lower... But what the heck -- I'm old... so what do I know...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC_7668.jpg

BTW -- If you happened to notice the "corrugated" galvanized steel "overhead" -- that was a good use of some left overs. I found that if I put it up (bends easy) between the floor joists... and then put the fluorescent lights up -- it made a great REFLECTOR.... HUGE difference in the 'down light' I got from them!!

I tell you what, that shop looks like it almost gets used.:D

Table designed with removable/flipable top with levelers.

Grinder Rack on side.

Another good idea is a shelf designed with a grate - to let all the weld trash and shop dust to drop thru.

My Monster Bench/Table
 

Here is my monstrosity of a work bench. Way, way Heavy! - - but I picked up these platens out of an injection molding machine at an auction for super cheap, so what the hell.

Here are the plates
http://www.wiedos.com/Forum%20Pics/WB1.jpg

I built it upside down and used the neighbors loader to flip it over - did I say it's Heavy!
http://www.wiedos.com/Forum%20Pics/WB6.jpg

http://www.wiedos.com/Forum%20Pics/WB13.jpg
http://www.wiedos.com/Forum%20Pics/WB14.jpg
http://www.wiedos.com/Forum%20Pics/WB15.jpg

I built it upside down and used the neighbors loader to flip it over - did I say it's Heavy!

We have several things mounted to it and continue to come up with other ways to mount stuff to it. I use the holes in the plates for all sorts of things. I've also drilled and tapped additional holes as needed.

Nope... just read my signature... that tells you all you need to know!:wow: :lol:

That's a good looking design - and I like that it rolls...

Here are a few pictures of my welding table that I built for my shop. The top is 3'x6'x1/2". The table top is about 30" high. The base is made out of 2x2x.250" uprights and the crossmembers is 2"x3"x.250. The top is bolted to the frame for the ease of replacement if it ever gets damaged. I had the frame powder coated. I also added two peices of tubing across the end to hang clamps.

That's a beauty Scott!

Thanks, at first I don't want to use it after I got it done. It look to nice. But I built it to use it. The table has been a handy piece of equipment to have around the shop.

Wow !
 

Very nice Scott !!

Can you tell us who makes the levelers ?

How much over hang is there on the table top - and is that enough in your experience using it ?

Beautiful job !

Jim --

I didn't do any 'under table support' on the front of my table - with the exception of a leg to table top brace... Where as on the sides and all across the back side - I used 3" angle iron welded intermittently to make sure the top stayed flat.

The reason nothing in front - CLAMPING... I wanted a place to be able to use any kind of clamp without under table interference. In the back - I stepped in about 6 inches...

My floor is level - so I didn't have to do levelers of any kind.

General questions for everyone:

Do you prefer to weld setting down or standing up ? I see most of these tables have cross bars on all corners - while a couple designs would allow you to sit down and slide under the table a bit on a stool to get up close to the work.

Some of these are pretty tall too. Bar stools or standing and leaning over ?

Grounding thru the table or directly to the part ? If thru table - are you using the clamp, a stud/stub, or bolted on style of connection ?

Since I'm right here -- I'll jump on a reply.

I have an "office chair" and a shop stool - either one will saddle up nicely... no interference at all....

Welding depends on WHAT you're working on... normally though - I'm sitting on the office style chair if I'm TIG welding -- and standing when I'm MIG welding... I never MIG any small parts... only big ugly looking stuff :rofl:

Welding is an "all position" proposition -- regardless of where when how and who...

You notice in one of my photos -- a copper strap? I use that sometimes under the ground clamp - and sometimes laying on a piece for holding and grounding -- and sometimes behind a hole I'm trying to fill (since welding won't stick to it).

In my "shed" I use a MAG clamp on my MIG and a spring loaded ground clamp on the TIG... I just snap either one on the table... I want my "machines" MOBILE... in a hot rod shop (shed) because you never know what you're going to be working on - or which of your buddies limps in with some broken "whatever".

I don't know the manufacturer of the levelers. I did order them thru McMaster-Carr out of Chicago. They have 3/4-10 stud with a 2.5" dia. foot. The hang over is 3" for the most part it fine, but I have had some item on the table where I wished it was a larger hang over. I also have drill and tap hole in the surface and used hold down clamps. It’s hard to build a table that will work perfect for every job that you build.

McMasterscarr.com

Check page 1354 of their catalog --
Type 304 Stainless Steel Vibration-Damping Swivel Leveling Mounts

Greg, I thought you were good. We need a catalog number! DAH! :_paranoid :rofl: You gotta take take them when they are offered! :hail:

Google McMaster Carr

Go to their HUGE catalog (they sell 480,000 items)

Search "Swivel Level" and it will take you to the first page for this "type" of leveling foot.... which is on their page 1350... then you can toggle through from there - and the ones that were posted look like the version on page 1354...

There are "hundreds" when you look at the SIZES --- which is why I didn't post a particular part number.

:lateral: :cheers: :woot:

Looking last night for levelers and found a couple additional sources.

Sunnex has a full line of nice stuff. Check the mounts section - about 6 different kinds.

http://www.sunnexonline.com/mounts

Also here:

www1.MSCDirect.com floor locks section

You could also do a home built deal with a 5/8's threaded rod through a sleeve tube , couple nuts, washers, and a rubber/nylon foot. Weld the lower nut to the bottom of the sleeve and maybe weld a cheap 3/8's or 1/2 inch socket to the top. Just a thought give this economy....

Jim

Here is mine. It's 56" by 36". 3/4" top plate. I plan on doing something to be able to set up jigs, but have not gotten that far just yet.
I used angle iron flipped outwards, for the top rails and support instead of square tubing. That gives me a nice clamping overhang. Lockable casters as well. I try to keep everything mobile in my shop, so that my space if more flexible. I can manuever everything to suit the job.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...ano2010068.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...ano2010066.jpg

Nice work !

Another good idea with the angle iron. You could also use that concept and attach a couple to the side rails and you could clamp c-clamps on to it.

Couldn't find a bigger vise ?? :P

Thx ! Jim

:unibrow: I broke the last one I had beating on it, so I stepped up a little. But it's not really the big, the pic makes it look that way.

I like that cutting table greg has. I'll have to keep my eyes open for some grating material to make ono of those.

I was just messing with yah, back in the cave man days of printed catalogs you also had to indicate which catalog number you were using along with the page number. There web site is much easier to use. Oh and I hope I didn't offend any cave men!

Honestly you people have got to stop. I don't need any more projects. I have a truck to build! :willy:

:lateral: :cheers: :woot:

@Chad

After I quickly went to get you more info -- I re-read your post and realized you were tugging my chain... but had already hit the submit button.

Note that the SUNNEX is a BRAND -- can't order from them - after checking out their website - which has killer stuff - they refer you to a "supplier" -- one of which is McMaster Carr... LOL

@JIM

Agree with you - leg levelers are something a guy can make - most likely, out of stuff laying around the shop... if you can't make a table - and some type of leveling -- you should probably stop and take your car to a shop, right? LOL

Greg, This is a very nice table, I see only one problem....


http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/17...600x600Q85.jpg

Where are the Steaks?

Chassis table
 

Mine is 5' x 15'. It is 1/2" top plate one piece with 8" I beams. Plumbed for air fittings and wired with outlets.

Mark