Preparing for the Midwest Muscle Challenge
 

Okay - I'm doing some little things to get my 69 Camaro ready for the www.midwestmusclecarchallenge.com

Started out with installing a set of Morris Classic 3 point retractable seat belts up front. It previously had only a lap belt system. I appreciate all the input about four point cage sytems vs. this for what is otherwise a street car that uses the back seat.

I also put a steam T in my upper radiator hose to catch the steam line out of my LS engine. I had previously only capped that and had no issues for 11K miles, but this will really heat things up and I want to make sure the air bubbles get out of the engine. I don't have a port in my radiator, so this was the next best.

I am flushing the system and running Wilwood 570 and bringing and extra bottle to drain it out after the road course to make sure I get any bubbled fluid out. It is due for a flush anyway.

I ordered 10' of Jegs 3" brake duct. I don't know how, but I will be working on porting it from the nose to the hubs to help cool it down - this car is heavy with A/C and all - so these C5 front brakes will be working very hard.

On April 23 I'm taking it to www.speedinc.com to dyno tune the engine. Up until this time it has been running on a mail order tune.

Of courese, we'll wrap it up with a full fluid change, and bolt check.

What am I missing????????

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/4HR.jpg

Not sure how hard you are going to run
 

but i would change brake pads to a more aggressive set or at least bring another set with you.

Good luck, you will have the time of your life running a big track.

Add 1 extra qt of " good " engine oil

Good power steering fluid. GM fluid is very good.

Brake fluids are not all alike, look for a hight boiling point.

Try and get an instructor to ride with you early on.

The Wilwood is a 570 degree dry boiling point.

Do you run an extra quart of oil in the crankcase - or is that to replinsh after running?

Pads???? I have GM delco Corvette pads in the C5 calipers and it is using slotted/drilled rotors.

On the subject of pads....what type would be better than the stock C5 pads that are good for street and track?????

Power Steering.....yes, I need to drain and fill that. The fluid in there now has been there for 5 years and 11K miles.

Okay...any examples of air ducts on 1st gen Camaros????

Run an extra quart in the crankcase, and bring another incase you need to replenish.

Pads should be ok, but stock C5 Z06 pads would be better. I dont think you need ducts.

Very cool info.

Yep... I know I dont' need them, but if I can get them hooked up without turning it into a massive project it would be cool. I have to put a support brace on my spoiler anyway. I don't have the ugly OEM rods on there and I suspect it folds back at high speed. I'd hate to tear it off from plastic fatigue. So, while I'm whiping up some aluminum brackets for that I'll eye ball what it would take to put the hoses under there.

In scouting the track at Putnam Park, I can safely say that you won't be achieving any speeds that will tear things off, even the front spoiler - unless its just mounted with double sided tape or something! :lol:

Top speed will be achieved at the end of the front straight before a sweeping left hand turn. My guess is that if you go fast enough to tear something off from the aero stress, you'll never make the first turn! I admire your attention to preparation, I wish more guys would spend just a little more time before the events.

Doh! You figured me out! Since it is only 100 mph tape...I figured I better prep it a bit better - plus it gives me something fun to do.

You've never seen me drive...have you? I didn't earn the honor of worst driver in my high school year book from 1988 for nothing!

:lateral:

Suggestions....

I know I don't NEED vent tubes on my front brakes. I know...I know.

Anyway, I want to try to hang them on anyway.

I bought some 3" tube from Jegs.

Here is my idea. It looks like I can oval it a bit and then use the bump stop on the A frame to make a pinch bracket to hold the tube to the front of the lower A-frame. From there it would go up to the frame and route to a pair of port holes in the front spoiler. I think this would work.

Any other ideas or pictures of tubes on basically stock suspensions?????

Matt, I'm not sure I agree with you. Of course I'm not an LSX guy. Windage is worse than being a little low on oil. It robs power and aerates the oil making it hard for the pump to do it's job. A thicker oil may be a good decision due to the increase in oil temps. I don't think you need the brake ducts for the length we run the cars. This isn't Lemans 24hrs. haha

I have been trying to prep for this event also. Just added a new 55 GPM electric water pump.
I have been looking into evanscooling because car is sill running around 200+*
Installed M&R 5 point, cam-lok harness.
And right now trying to get my brakes straightened out.

Is there a place where you can see this track with a virtual tour?

Hey 69myway- What tires are you running? Your car looks great nice Brand of wheels!

GRNova --

Re: Evanscool

Have you just tried adding a couple of bottles of Red Line Water Wetter?

Run - distilled water - no water from a garden hose... and barely any anti freeze -- and at least one bottle of the Water Wetter...

If you're still running hot - I'd have to ask you if you have a fan shroud? Electric or engine driven fan? If electric - are you getting full voltage? If electric are you using relays to the fan(s)... If engine driven - how close is the fan to the radiator? Are you using an anti collapse spring in the suction side hose? You may be collapsing your lower radiator hose...

But in the end - nothing wrong with running 200 degrees --- new Vettes run 220.... it's only really a problem if the temp keeps climbing.

I know - I'm convinced I don't need this...but.......

I have a friend in Florida that has been a auto x - road racer all his adult life. He owns an amazing GT1 car and had the pleasure of running in the Rolex 24 hours with a team of drivers. He had suggested from experience doing anything I can to direct cool air to the center of the wheel bearing hub if it wasn't an act of congress to install it. He said the air going to the center of the hub would get picked up and vent sucked through the rotor and out to keep it cool. Said it would do no good at low speed, but anything 50 and above it would ram some cooling in and give just a tad of extra brake.

I'm just having fun, but when Dave does something - he is always in it to win it. He is the kind of guy that you don't want to see in your reaview because given enough time he will know your weakness and exploit it to put his rear bumper in front of your headlights!

So...been trying to tack along with his ideas - but it is looking like a tricky set up to get at least a 3" hose in there that doesn't rub on the tires, get pinched by the suspension, and has enough mounting strength to stay on the car without blowing off on the road.

There are pictures here at Lat G of some first gen with ducts in the nose, but I don't know how or if they are vented beyond that.

Probably going to give up on this one, but will give it at least one more good look to be sure. I was thinking last night if I made the A-frame mount out of cardboard/tape and fiberglassed it to shape, then the duct hose would connect at the lower a-frame mount so it would pivot and twist fine - then go to some duct cut outs in the spoiler.

They are Nitto Neogen - 18" up front and 19" in the rear.

http://www.nittotire.com/#index%2Etire%2Eneogen

They are not typical "directional" tires - but they are left/right tires. The tread it really cool looking. They came highly recommended by Discount Tire at the time I bought them.

I have no idea how they will perform in this kind of activity. They are now just over a year old but only have about 500 miles on them since.