69 AMC Javelin Project
 

Hello,

I thought it was about time that I introduce myself and my project. I am Jonathan Feltis from covina, ca. I am 21 years old. My project is a 69 AMC Javelin that I have had for almost 3 years now. My Dad and I have been working on it ourselves.

This is what the car looked like when I bought:
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/100_2490.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/100_2494.jpg

My Dad did all the body work and paint
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/100_2619.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/100_2622.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/100_2715.jpg


Here is some pictures of the car after paint and before the trans died
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000397.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000395.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000394.jpg

Very nice, I have always liked the Javelins. never had one though.

Tonny

I want to build a nice pro-touring/autocross/track car.

For the front suspension I am going use C6 corvette components and a weld in sub frame that a forum member here, Scott Mock, built for me. It will have Strange Engineering coil overs and an AGR power rack.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_0037.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_0031.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_0040.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000451.jpg

Scott did a really nice job on the frame and even took the extra time to tig weld it for me. He fab'd up the steering arms and bent the sway bar arms. He always kept me updated on the progress he made, and shipped it out exactly when he said he would. Scott was great to deal with and answered all my questions. If you are looking for an awesome subframe, I would call him up.

For the Rear suspension, I am thinking of building are own 3 link with a panhard bar or maybe even a watts link and Strange Engineering coilovers in the rear also. The rear axle is a 9 full floater with speedway engineering aluminum hubs, moser aluminum 3rd member, 3.64 rp, and Speedway Eng. axles.

As for brakes I am looking a 13" or 14" Wilwood setup with 6 piston calipers and gt rotors, in the rear I have a pair of Wilwood forged 4 piston superlites with 1.88/1.75 stainless pistons with a 12.19" gt rotor.

I am not quite sure on wheels yet, but I am thinking of getting some ccw classics in 17x10 and 17x11 with 275's on the front and 315's on the rear.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon; your car is awesome.I was looking for a javelin when I found this 66 nova sedan. I still want to build a Penske/Donahue Javelin one of these days.It's great that the sub frame is going in such a bad a&& car.And guys by the way Jon was great to work with too.He sent a check every time he said he would.So it is easy to work w/ some like that.It's great when everybody does what they say they will do.Good luck Jon w/ the project.And you have some if you need anything else you just ask.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

hey Jon,
cool to see you over here. I'm bringing my Javelin to Pomona this year. look forward to seeing you again :thumbsup:

Thanks Scott, after seeing your camaro I can't wait to see what the nova looks like.

Asif, I will be there to but with out my car. The car is way to far apart to make the show.

Thanks,
Jon

cool
 

NICE JAVELIN

:thumbsup:
LOVING THAT FRAME.....

Tom

yeah, Scott does great work with these frames.......... :yes:

Jody

Thats a nice looking car and a great project.

Thanks guys, I can't wait to get this thing back together and finally start driving it again.

Thanks,
Jon

Looks like you are really doing it right, OMG!

I'm glad to see another Javelin or AMX. I have always loved them. It's really a shame several hundred thousand weren't made.

Had a friend back in the late 70's who bought a "Cherry" Javelin with a 390, 4 speed. He paid a whopping $500 cash for it.

On another note,

I wonder if someone will ever take up the task of, "Dare to be Different", with a Pro-Touring, "Matador". That's a car that would be really a challenge to make a "Riddler" award winning entry out of.

Please post a bunch of pictures of your Javelin when you can.

Ty O'Neal

Jonathan, this is easily the second coolest AMC on the forum:cheers:

But seriously, can't wait to see how you graft in that front suspension. Have you compared the width of the new front end (wheel mounting surface to whell mounting surface) to the stock config?

Yeah, I hardly see them around at all in my area, except when we have the socal amc show and you see 30 AMX's together. One of the reasons why I got into amc's was because they were cheaper and you never see them.

Didn't get to much done today, just got the seats and carpet out of the car and cut the front end off.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000471.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000466.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000511.jpg

Here is the lay out of the frame we are doing.
The Red line is a 2x4 .120 wall cross member that will sit right in front of the rear frame rails. This will also be the attachment points for the lower links of the 3 link.

The Blue lines are the "sub frame connectors" that will be welded to the rear cross member and to the front frame section. We will cut out the bottom of the existing frame rails and slide the 3x3 steal in between. The 3x3 will be even with the bottom of the existing frame rails and will stick through the floor inside the car. Then the 3x3 will be welded to the floor.

The Yellow lines are 2x4 .120 which is the same material the front frame is made out of.

I think this is the best and strongest way to do this. The car will also have down bars in the engine bay made out of 1.75 DOM tubing.

When we start on the rear end we will do a mini tube using the existing tubs and will have to notch the frame rail to allow proper clearance for a 315/35r17 tire on a 11 wide wheel. The front will get a 275/40r17 on a 10" wide wheel.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon, I am impressed w/the work you have done so far.I wish I was closer I would love to come help out. This is going to be a really cool project.I am still looking for a javelin my self for a project. I am proud to have been a part of this project so far.Keep up the good work and email me if you need any thing else.Scott.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hail:

Nice! You are braver than I. The blue and red lines are exactly what I would have done.
I would maintain the stock portion of frame in the yellow reference area and build the new front portion of the frame straight forward from their (where the stock fram was orignially).

Another quick note while I'm thinking of it. The biggest clearance problem in the front will be the front-bottom corner of the wheel opening when the front wheel is turned.
with stock suspension and fat tires on the front you can have that problem if you dial in enough caster. I have only about 1/2" clearance at that location and I have skinny tires by comparison to what you will be using.

Scott, first gen Javelins are a bear to find, but when you do find one the price is usually pretty low. Not a huge fan of second-gen humpster javelins in stock trim, but I do think they look great as road racers/pro-touring cars. The second gen cars are easy to find.

That should definately stiffen it up. Nice work!

Thanks Scott, when ever you want to start that Javelin project, I got a nice 69 that i can part with for cheap, basically a rolling shell, just got to find a way to ship it.

Lol, you kind of get the "Do I really want to do this" right before you make the first cut, but will get it done. The frame that I got from Scott is 32" outside to outside, he can make them any where from 32" to about 34" wide. The stock frame is 35 7/32" wide, I chose the 32" so I would have more tire clearance up front, since the frame is about 3 7/32" we couldn't find a good way to attach the new sub frame to the old frame.


That's what we are hoping for, should work out well. I was going to put sub frame connectors in before to stiffen it up, but with this new plan, it is all in one.

Thanks,
Jon

FYI, The shell of my Javelin was pretty rotted, so I got a better one from AZ. the shell only cost me $500:thumbsup: I used U-ship and found a guy that would ship it to Wisconsin for about $1,000. (I still have his contact info somewhere)
Best money I've ever spent.:yes:

If Scott doesn't want that shell let's talk.;)

Well it is about time for some updates, we have been working on it a little bit every day. We cut off the rest of the stock frame rails that we didn't need, cut the floor open and fitted the frame rails, built a 4' x 8' table to start laying out the frame and rails on.

We cut the bottoms out of the front frame rails, the 3x3 box tubing fits nice in between the sides of the frame rails.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000516.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000510.jpg

On the front we welded a 8.75x12x.125 plate on the front where the new frame rails will be going.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000537.jpg
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000543.jpg

Here is a good shot of the table we built. The frame is leveled and squared, we have blocks screwed down so that the frame rails can't move.
http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/P1000550.jpg



Between all the stuff that is going on this weekend, we are going to try and get the uprights made that connect the subframe to the frame rails done, make and weld in the fish plates on the inside of the frame rails, and hopefully tack the whole frame together.

Thanks,
Jon

:thumbsup: Jon; looks awesome.I think you will have something alot of folks are really going to like when you are finished. I can't wait to see more updates.Scott.:thumbsup:

My Dad got the uprights and the fish plates for the front made the other day. Hopefully we can start welding the front up tomorrow. 275/40r17 with a tire diameter of 25.6 will give me a ride height about 5.75"- 6"(at the bottom of the frame rails), and at this height the lower ball joint is slight lower than the lca bolts. The front cross member is about almost a inch higher that the bottom of the frame rails.

Here's some pictures.
http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/47...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/33...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/22...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/13...500x500Q85.jpg

Thanks,
Jon

Jon; Looks great.The fit up looks spot on.I really cant wait to see the rest of the project.Could you work a little faster.:lol: :thumbsup:

Thanks Scott, will work faster just for you:lol:
Also congrats on the Hot Rod write up on your car, very cool. Now I just have to get my hands on that issue.

We got most of the frame welded together just have to clean up a few areas, then flip it over and weld the bottom parts.

http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/47...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/46...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/44...500x500Q85.jpg


Thanks,
Jon

Jon;Thanks for posting up more photo's,If and when I find that humpster javelin I will be doing alot of the same as your project. You are doing a nice job.I am really enjoying this build.Getting some cool idea's from you.Great job.Scott.:thumbsup:

Well this weekend we positioned the sub frame in the car. It fit great, it looks like all are measurements were right on, so I am really happy about that. My Dad will finish welding the sub frame in during the week.

Now I have to purchase a tubing bender so we can bend the engine bars and the roll bar (or cage). I am looking at the JD2 Model 32 bender with a 1 3/4" die that has a 6.5" CLR. Any one have there thoughts on this bender? How about a good place to buy one?

Here is a shot of the sub frame on the car
http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/43...500x500Q85.jpg


Hopefully as soon as we get the bender we can position the fenders, bend the engine bay down bars and make the mounts for the fenders.

Thanks,
Jon

right on time
 

hey Jon,

I was just about to post... "where's my update???" :)

looks awesome. can't wait to see it back on the ground!

say hi to your dad. you guys make a great team! :thumbsup:

How's it going?,

I know huh, I had to look back a few pages to find this thing, lol.

After we get the engine bars down and the fenders mounted we are going to turn the car around and start working on the 3 link and mini tub. By the time we get the 3 link done, I will have the money saved up to buy the wheels and tires. Then we can see what it looks like.

Its a lot of work but, I know it will be worth it in the end.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon. call me or email some drawings and I will bend you some down bars for the cost of shipping.785.594.7481 Looks great.Scott

Thanks for the offer, that is really cool. I found out that a friend of a friend has an extra bender in his shop that he is willing to loan me. If this doesn't work out, I will take you up on your offer. The reason I was thinking about purchasing a bender was that I want to bend a roll bar or cage for my car and my Dad wants to put a roll bar in his chevelle.

My Dad decided to start the rear cross member that all the links will attach to. It is made out of 2x4 .120 box tubing, we cut holes in the cross member and added 4" .120 wall tubing for the exhaust to pass though. We started the drive shaft loop, it is 2" wide x 3/16" thick strap. We will remove the temporary pieces that are on the cross member now a bend a piece of 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 tubing for the bottom part of the drive shaft loop.

http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/35...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/45...500x500Q85.jpg


Thanks,
Jon

Jon;look's great.I buy all my bending dies from ProTools in fla.Or theres a company in Iowa called VanSant.they have some nice benders.:thumbsup:

Right now we are working on the 3 link rear, and I am having trouble deciding what size tubing and rod ends I need for the lower links.

HRPWorld.com sells 1.125 chrome molly links for 5/8" - 18 rod ends with tig weld tubing adapters. The rod ends I am thinking of using, use a 5/8" bolt. I will be using this for the upper link.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

Will this be strong enough for the Lowers? Or should I use 3/4" bolt with 3/4" rod ends and bigger tubing for the link?

Thanks,
Jon

Jon, 4130 rod ends will be strong enough.BUT rod ends will REAL NOISEY.They will bang and clank. Look at using some rubber or delrin syle bushings.My rear suspension is rod ends and it drives up the wall on a long drive.My new camaro project is going to have some poly bushing in the front and a johnny joint in the rear of the bars. call and we will talk.785.594.7481Scott.

Jon; The bolts in the 3 link on my camaro are also 5/8 for the upper and lower.The 4130 moly rod ends are lined and are not as nosiey.also my car has no sound deadern & interior.That makes it loauder than your car would be.I used 1.250x.095 4130 tube for my 3 link tubes.The 1.125 will work if the wall thickness of the tube is not to thin.:thumbsup:

Thanks for the info Scott! I will see about the wall thickness from HRP if it is too thin, I just might have to call you about making up some links for me.

Do you tig the adapters on or do you tap the tubing and just thread the rod end in?

Over the weekend I was at a friends house and he had some left over circle track stuff. I found this cool adjustable panhard bar mount that gives you about 4" of up/down adjustment by turning the bolt on the end. I was thinking about running it for the chassis side of the upper link. This way I will have infinite adjustment with in the 4" range, instead of raising it in 1" increments.

I have been playing around with two different programs to configure the 3 link and I think I got it to where I want it for now. Hopefully we can finish making the brackets and get the welded in this weekend.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon; I get my my threaded tube ends from McMaster Carr.com about $7.00 each.Then I tig weld then ends w/ 1 rosette weld per end.Call me and I will walk you though the steps.:thumbsup:

hey cool build! check this site http://www.suicidedoors.com/catalog/...-link-bushings ... they have some really beefy bushings for your 3link. :woot:

We haven't been working on the car that much, but Sunday we got some of the three link brackets made. The LCA frame mounts are now done and welded to the cross member, the axle LCA mounts are fully welded together and tacked to the rear end housing for now, the axle UCA mount is made and tacked to the housing.

http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/39...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/12...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/47...500x500Q85.jpg

The cross member is almost done, just waiting on some material to build the upper 3rd link mount.
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/12...500x500Q85.jpg

Here is the start of the panhard bar mount, it is slotted and has 4" of adjust ability. It will be mounted on the passenger side of the axle.
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/44...500x500Q85.jpg

All the brackets will get more bracing after every thing is mocked up.

Scott, I will give you a call before we start making the links. I found the tubing adapters on McMaster-Carr, thanks for the tip. I decided to go with PTFE lined 5/8" rod ends. I was thinking about going with DOM 1.25" .120" wall tubing instead of 4130, as we don't have a tig welder. But I also noticed the tubing adapters are 4130, can these be MIG welded?

Thanks,
Jon

Jon;
You can mig weld the tube adapter's. Just make sure you drill a 5/16 hole about a 3/8 of an inch from the end of the tube and rosette weld the tube end also.Mild steel will work for the 3 link tube's.Look's great.:thumbsup:

Well this weekend we got the 3 link cross member done and tacked in the car. So far so good, we just have to double check our measurements before welding it in place.

http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/45...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/46...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/12...500x500Q85.jpg

I hope to get started working on building the links and the upper coil over panhard bar cross member.

Thanks,
Jon