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Max Lift with Vortec Heads
I recently bought some vortec heads for the small block I am going to build. I have always read that the max lift is .480" with the stock valve springs. Is this true? Or is this only if running a roller cam. I am going to be using a hydraulic flat tappet.
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That is correct for stock springs. They are a smaller diameter spring too. Beehive springs or machine the heads for regular ones are your only option.
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Is that the max using a roller cam? Or can I get away with a .500" lift cam since I am going to a hyd. flat tappet?
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I'm not sure, but I would change them to be safe.
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It is close, but do you think I will be able to get away using this cam with the stock springs?
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=108&sb=2 What is the deal with shimming the valve springs? Or is that just not the right way to do things? |
The stock springs won't be able to control the valve at those rpm's aka valve float. Read this on shimming the springs. http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/in...gs/springs.htm
If I was you I would run these springs. http://www.compperformancegroupstore...e=SBCNEWValves What rocker arms are you going to use? I'm running the same heads on my El Camino, but with a smaller cam so I've been down this road before. |
Appreciate all the help.
So you are saying, because that cam will be putting the springs at their max potential, I might experience valve float at higher RPM's? Thanks for the help, just trying to understand all this and learn. I will be using the factory 1.5 arms for now. I am kind of on a budget, and want to cut back where I can. Eventually, I will change them out to roller rockers. I do plan on leaving the self-aligning rockers with factory press-in studs. |
The rocker studs will not stay at that lift. You can drill a small hole in the boss on the head and drive a rollpin in. I had screw in studs put in mine.
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I am not looking to race the truck, or rev it to 6000.... I was hoping I ccould maybe get away with leaving the stock springs, but it sounds I might have to change those out too.
Or maybe step down the cam to this one... http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=107&sb=2 Basically, I am looking for a real aggressive lumpy idle, but still be streetable. Is there another cam you can maybe recommend? I don't mind trading off a little horsepower for this, as it won't be a race truck. Is a machine shop needed to change over to screw-in studs? Or is this something I can do in the garage? |
I would back down to something like this if you really want to run stock springs and studs.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=85&sb=2 Screw in studs will have to be done by a machine shop. |
I have the small thumpr flat tappet cam in my mild 350 with rhs 1.94/1.5 vortecs. it is all the cam you can stand in a daily driver. it is even kind of a pain in the ass with my 6 spd and 3.73's because it wants to buck the car at light load cruising. it runs and sounds great, but I would not recommend the larger thumprs unless you have 400+ cubes.
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How is the idle with that cam?
What do you have done to your heads? Are they completely stock? The truck will have a 700R4, and eventually 3:73's. |
the idle is pretty radical...along the lines of a 305 magnum from comp.
heads are aftermarket vortecs from racing head service in memphis. they flow a nice bit more than stock and have the correct comp springs and screw in studs/guideplates as delivered. compression is 9.5:1. it will work fine with an auto. if you use a lock up converter, you will have to experiment with lock up points. |
Anybody know of a good machine shop in SoCal, where I can have the machine work done needed to install screw-in studs, and non-beehive springs?
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You can use LS6 springs and comp's 787 retainers as a cheaper alternative.
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Sweet.... I will have to check that out. Maybe get some exact part numbers from you.
If that is the case, then all I will need to do is switch over to studs. I am assuming I can still use the self-aligning rockers I have. |
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